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Thread: Juniper slab coffee table help
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3rd May 2017, 03:28 AM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Juniper slab coffee table help
This table was initially designed to sit on a tile floor and it does that quite well. It's taken me long enough to finish it that things have changed and it now has to sit on a somewhat thick carpet with 10mm underlay. It sits on the carpet ok until some weight is placed along the long edges, then it tends to roll towards the side being pressed down (see the black arrows in the table legs photo). It's not completely unstable and rolling over, it just depresses a centimetre or so then stops. Is there any way I can stop this motion on carpet? It doesn't happen at all on a hard floor. I was thinking of trying a self leveling foot at the tip of each leg (something like this). It'll change the look more than I'd like, if it even works, so any other ideas would be appreciated. I'm hoping I'm missing an obvious solution.
Second cry for help is the top - I've used white shellac (Ubeaut no less!) and brushed on 7 coats so it is quite thick. I did sand the last few coats to try to ensure that the final coat was as level as possible. There are some imperfections on the surface so I'm giving it a few weeks to dry before I try rubbing it out with 240, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, grit wet and dry papers, then applying traditional wax with 0000 steel wool and buffing out. Is there anything I should be taking into consideration when attempting to rub out a dewaxed white shellac finish?
The legs just got sanded to 240, sanding sealer applied, sanded again to 240, 3 coats of white shellac, then cut with 0000 steel wool, then waxed and buffed and came out looking great (to my newbie eyes anyway).
table legs.jpgtable overhead.jpgtable top.jpg
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3rd May 2017 03:28 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd May 2017, 09:45 AM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi A
Nice piece ......
Rob
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3rd May 2017, 12:00 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Unless you want to put narrow stabilising pins (think nails) on the feet (to go down through the carpet to the solid floor below) and risk ruining the carpet - stabilising feet, or matching timber shims, appear to be the only option I can see.
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3rd May 2017, 12:22 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Oh and BTW ... have you considered going back to resand at something finer than 240 grit?
With 3 coats already I would be doing a very very light pass with a card scraper and 2000 grit,
Rob
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3rd May 2017, 03:31 PM #5
Its a nice looking table but the real stability issue is the shortness of the cross leg and the heavy top. When the center of gravity goes beyond the supporting base then over it goes. The C of G will be high up and the uneven soft carpet allows enough list for the C of G to go beyond the support of the cross leg. The self leveling feet will do nothing to improve the situation. In fact raising the height will even make it worse. Sorry to say but the only 2 ways to fix that I can see are a longer cross leg or screw it to the floor.
Regards
John
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4th May 2017, 12:14 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for the input guys - I should've stayed in my old house just for this table
Tahlee - yes I was wondering today why I was thinking of starting at 240 grit again, the finish is level so 400 or so seems like a much better starting point.
Orraloon and cava - I think it'll be back to the drawing board for the legs, I really didn't want to use metal tubing or hairpin legs and looking at the store bought feet, well, they really don't do it for me. Now that the anguish of a failed design has passed, I'm ready to make changes! Fortunately the top attaches to the legs with 4 dowels, so I can possibly re use the leg assembly with a lighter and thinner top.
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4th May 2017, 10:49 AM #7Skwair2rownd
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Gorgeous table!!
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4th May 2017, 12:30 PM #8
You could glue & screw 19mm shims to act as feet to the four ends of the cross just extending out past the ends a bit. Give it a larger footprint so to speak. That middle cross leg needs to extend to the width of the top to be stable. With the feet proud of the cross legs it will also be better able to handle any unevenness in the floor surface. In a matching wood it should look like was meant to be there all along and not change the overall look of the table which has quite a pleasing look to it.
Regards
John
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4th May 2017, 04:13 PM #9
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