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  1. #31
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    I am reminded that I did not post pictures in this thread of the leather-lined drawers, etc. This is nearly 3 years ago now. So, for closure ....

    I recall glueing the leather to a cardboard cutout of the drawer, and then glueing this in, and finishing with moulding around the drawers. The sliding drawers below are intersected by wooden sections. This finishes off the edges around the perimeter.

    This was the top of the chest. The top lifts up to a mirror and a recess. The top drawer is a jewellery drawer with two sliding trays ...










    Sliding it back reveals the lower jewelry tray (spaces for necklaces and rings) ..



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
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    Hi Arron, and thanks for your very detailed reply. The method I have been using is pretty much similar to yours. I have been using double velvet from Spotlight, very nice fabric, now discontinued from Coffs Harbour, (so I bought whatever they had left in stock in red and burgundy). The other fabric I liked and preferred was Performance Velvet, also from Spotlight. In a "camel" colour, but now that has been discontinued totally from all stores. I bought some tangerine performance fabric online from Spotlight, bad move, turned out to be very bright orange, waste of money.

    I did get a small sample of some pigskin from a company mentioned in this thread. But not sure, everyone on here seems to be raving about it, but I prefer the fabrics mentioned above. Still thinking about it.

    I can understand what your saying about trapping the fabric in a rebate, I did see a method on how to do that somewhere, cant find it anymore.

    I also use cardboard, the type bought from Office Works 1mm thick, and slice with a guillotine. I was also using wadding for a nice soft padding under my fabric, but I did buy 1 metre of 6mm foam from Clark Rubber just to try it out. The chap there didn't know the longevity of it, so couldn't comment on that. It does press down to nearly nothing.

    Thanks again, Paul

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

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    I’m a bit late spotting this thread

    For boxes I use pigskin suede, high quality velvet or, more recently, Ultrasuede. Much though I like the feel of velvet I don’t find it anywhere near as easy to use as suede or Ultrasuede.

    The jury is out for me on real suede - I do use it but I’ve seen reports that the tannins in the suede tarnish the silver. Anyone have any experience of this?

    Some of my box recipients being sensitive to animal welfare I’ve tried faux suede - the woven types - but I HATE the disintegrating edges of woven fabrics.

    Ultrasuede (the real thing is from Toray) is good but hard to find. It’s non-woven, comes in many thicknesses (e.g. 0.5mm, 0.6mm, 0.7mm and up), no smell and extremely durable - 200,000 double rubs according to the manufacturer. Many colours and made in large part from recycled materials. I have an order arriving soon so I will post some pics then. Ultrasuede is used on many of the high end boxes (think $20,000 plus) sold by firms such as Linley.

    I prefer thinner material for lining jewellery boxes (0.5, 0.6) as it makes neat corner folds.

    For the lining process I take the Andrew Crawford approach. The sides are only overlapped at the top - the side and bottom edges are cut flush. No pulled threads on the edges with real suede or Ultrasuede.

    Sides are done first then the bottom is cut to size. I do fold over all edges on the bottom panel - just a little bit of insurance against any cut edges being seen. The bottom panel hides the bottom edges of the sides, not that I have found any real problems there.

    If I use spray glue it is Sikkens but I will give the 3M a go now I know it is easy to find. Mostly I use ds tape. I also have some of that pongy rubber cement, but it takes half a millennium for the smell to go away. That reminds me, I must call my mother-in-law.

    A great thread - thanks to all for sharing.

    Brian

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    This begs the question... Where does one buy Toray Ultrasuede?

  6. #35
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    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
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    Hi wP,

    eBay US lists a number of sellers but the postage is high. Right now I’m awaiting a delivery of the same type of material (not Toray brand) from Seoul, South Korea. Non-woven, same component mix, I’ll post pics when it arrives. Found it here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/0-6MM-UL...edirect=mobile

    I’m also looking at the UK suppliers - will report back.

    Brian

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default Majilite Novasuede

    This is the card that Majilite sent me for the Novasuede.

    It is incredible. So nice to use, but mucho expensive.

    Their website is appalling, but the product first rate: Majilite and these are its properties: http://www.majilite.com/PhysicalProp_6.pdf

    IMG_20190407_133413.jpg IMG_20190407_133422.jpg IMG_20190407_133445.jpg IMG_20190407_133452.jpg

    Plus a closeup shot showing the edges.

    IMG_20190407_133537.jpg

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
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    Thanks for that, wP. Very interesting and helpful. Agree Majilite’s website is hopelessly unfriendly. I was interested to see in their spec sheet that the fabric is resistant to urine. What the heck - I wouldn’t like to go to a party at their place!

    I’m not seeking the vast quantities that the WoodPixel International empire needs (grin) so I can occasionally pick up a few yards on eBay at $US 10-20 per yard. A lot of effort, though, and by the time one filters out the dracky colours and the sellers who have strange ideas on postage it can be slow going.

    I’ll keep looking and report back if I find anything that looks vaguely reasonable and reliable.

    Thanks again,

    Brian

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