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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Post Looking for Advice

    I need to make two bench cupboards 2m long, 840 high and 640 deep.

    The top will have a 20mm overhang all round. Plinth will probably be 40mm square pine
    and back ply.

    I am looking at a face frame, two end frames and a middle frame from which to hang doors.

    Now, I have some good quality T&G hardwood flooring ( scrounged of course! ) that is 19mm thick and
    90mm wide. With T&G removed it ends up about 80 wide.

    Should I make the face frame from the T&G? I have no idea how it would stand up to Pocket hole joints
    or biscuit joints.

    A second method I though of would be to make the face frame from pine and then anchor the T&G to it
    like a skin. I know this will add weight but may well be a safer method as I fear the T&G will split on the end grain
    if I try pocket hole joints. Biscuit joints may not be the strongest option.

    I think I can make the doors from the T&G also. I can run it through a thicknesser at the club to lessen the
    weight but it may need some backing to prevent warping and twisting.

    What are the thoughts of the brains trust.???

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
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    Default

    You can make the frames out of the T/G if you ditch the pocket holes and biscuits entirely and use dowels.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Chifley, ACT Australia
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    Default My 2c worth

    This is what my understanding of a face frame cupboard looks like. Each member of the face frame is probably what? 40mm wide? The grain runs horizontally on the horizontal parts of the face frame and vertical on the vertical parts of the face frame.



    I THINK that you may be thinking about joining some of the T&G boards together and making the cross members of the face frame out of cross cut T&G strips. I wouldn't do that... It will look odd - and while you can get some very strong glues these days, it will probably warp.

    If it was me I would be ripping a few of the T&G groove boards into - say - 40 mm wide strips and use mortice and tenon, or half lap joints to make the face frames.



    I would then glue the face frame(s) straight onto the front of the cupboard(s).

    You can also make lipped panels by gluing the face frame material onto the edge of the panels that make up the sides, shelf and bottom of the cupboard, The result is a face framed cabinet. But joining the sides to the shelves is made very tricky. Here is what I did with a bookshelf, but note the very deliberate 5mm gap between the sides and the shelves.

    Modern Bookshelves in Pine-3-jpg

    T&G end panels would look beautiful. The T&G end panels could be secured onto square 8 shaped end frames... Making them, strong beautiful and light - and no biscuits, no dowels, no ugly pocket screws anywhere.

    Above all, have fun with the project.

    Jorge

  5. #4
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    Aug 2008
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    Default

    +1 for half-lap joins, don't know why I didn't think of that before

  6. #5
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    Default

    Many thanks Garcia but I have already cut the face frame pieces to length and am about to begin the doweling process.

    I will glue the face frame to a more substantial oregan frame to which all other elements of the cupboard will be attached.

    I have put some thought into how to go about joints and so forth for strength and ease of assembly. All in my head and
    I have a few sketches to keep me on track.

    I will try to post some WIP pics as I go.

    Cheers, and thanks for the input.

    Actually the T&G has been ripped to 76mm. I just ripped off the tongues and the grooves. This gives me a nice wide frame with
    the grain showing nicely. As the frame is oak it will contrast with the red coloured hardwood very nicely.

    NO. I was not going to cross cut the T&G for the vertical parts of the frame. I came down in the shower before the last one!!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Chifley, ACT Australia
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    Default

    Just a misunderstanding about the ripping then... But now I don't understand your original question. If you were not going to do that, All your joining options would have worked, including pocket screws and biscuits. I am just a bit of a purist - I tent to stay clear of those sorts of joints as a matter of principle . Dowels will be excellent.

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