Thread: Marble top dresser, the planets align

https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-...esive_p1230240
I've used this before and found it to be very good. It can be tinted with dry pigments as well.

Are these the tiles that survived a 1000km trip in the back of my car?.

I suppose gravity had something to do with their altered appearance..

if you are looking for similar tiles, I came across a fireplace shop in East Maitland, PM me if you want to go down that track.

Commiserations,

Alan...

Originally Posted by fletty

38mm diameter



In further support of the Sheppach, here are a few pictures taken last week when I made a 50mm thick, ‘bent’ slab of sheoak a bit easier to store AND made a fistful of handle blanks for knew Concept saw changeover kits.

Attachment 435935 Attachment 435936 Attachment 435937

fletty

Fletty

I had previously missed this thread. A few comments. Firstly it looks like a very interesting build. watching now with interest. Secondly that slab looks like there will be a large number of saw handles in it. Got any more you wish to part with including offcuts? Thirdly you mentioned that the cutting depth is limited to about 45mm. If you ever need more depth than the Sheppach or a Festool track saw a sheet of 10mm MDF makes a passable substitute. Cut a strip around 300mm wide from the sheet and a second strip about 75mm to 100mmwide (up to you) making sure one side has the manufacturers edge. Fix the narrow strip as shown in the pic below. Use the manufacturers edge to measure a little more than the distance from the blade to the edge of the base plate. Now the saw can be run against the MDF. The first time the saw is used it will cut the mdf exactly to the width of the saw.

The other side of the base is used to attach an F clamp or similar quick action device. This one was made up from offcuts of VJ paneling.

P1040023 (Medium).JPGP1040024 (Medium).JPG

There are several advantages and disadvantages compared to the proprietary products:

Pro:

It's awfully cheap.
It will cut to the depth of your circular saw minus about 10mm to 20mm (the motor may have to be lifted a little to clear the guide rail, but depends on individual saws.)
It can be made to suit two saws. One either side of the guide strip. I normally set them up to suit a 9 1/4" and a 7 1/4" saw.
Not too many tears if it gets damaged.

Con:

It is not interchangeable with different saws (at least not if you want to measure from the edge of the board).
It is not interchangeable with different kerf thickness blades in the same saw. (As above)
Does not come with a sophisticated clamping device. (I use small (100mm) F clamps.
Does not "locate" on the track (if you can call it that..probably not). It is necessary to create moderate pressure against the fence to prevent the saw wandering. Actually, easy to do.
Subject to deterioration. An HMR product may be more durable.
It remains the length you made it: Not modular so storage may be an issue. I normally have one at 2.4m and one at 1.2m, but more on that in a moment.

There are probably more disadvantages, but my bias is temporarily blocking those thoughts.

I went to get the 2400 model which I had stored in the rafters of my shed, but condensation had dripped on the far end of the device causing it to swell and it resisted initial attempts to withdraw it from it's, now, extremely secure location .

P1040026 (Medium).JPG

Incidentally the saw in my pix above is not the correct one for that guide (I'm reluctant to call it a track) and was the first saw that came to hand and should be regarded as for demonstration purposes only. Really any timber or board can be used. I have another guide with hardboard (Masonite) as the base. The critical component is the narrow guide rail which obviously must be straight and is why I suggested using the manufacturers edge. Plywood would be another suitable material and is a little more upmarket. Probably a hardwood base (4mm to 5mm) and a 10mm plywood fence gives the best cutting depth.

I hope the re-gluing of the tiles is successful. Two part epoxy?

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

Are these the tiles that survived a 1000km trip in the back of my car?.

yup

I suppose gravity had something to do with their altered appearance..

gravity AND stupidity

if you are looking for similar tiles, I came across a fireplace shop in East Maitland, PM me if you want to go down that track.

thank you but there is a shop (not far from your place!) that sells new tiles allegedly from the same company that made the originals


Commiserations,

​thank you again

Alan...

PS, I’m starting to feel better

Originally Posted by fletty

PS, I’m starting to feel better

I’ve bin thinkin’.....

The tiles are/were for a traditional tile splash back on the dresser. In this case they would be purely decorative. The 4 tiles I have/had weren’t/aren’t quite enough to cover the area that I need SO, IF I could get 3 repaired tiles I could add 2 plain matching green tiles and intersperse them to give me the desired run of 5 tiles ?

Originally Posted by fletty

I’ve bin thinkin’.....

The tiles are/were for a traditional tile splash back on the dresser. In this case they would be purely decorative. The 4 tiles I have/had weren’t/aren’t quite enough to cover the area that I need SO, IF I could get 3 repaired tiles I could add 2 plain matching green tiles and intersperse them to give me the desired run of 5 tiles ?

See, a design opportunity!

Originally Posted by fletty

I’ve bin thinkin’.....

The tiles are/were for a traditional tile splash back on the dresser. In this case they would be purely decorative. The 4 tiles I have/had weren’t/aren’t quite enough to cover the area that I need SO, IF I could get 3 repaired tiles I could add 2 plain matching green tiles and intersperse them to give me the desired run of 5 tiles ?

Now you're talking.

Originally Posted by fletty

IF I could get 3 repaired tiles I could add 2 plain matching green tiles and intersperse them to give me the desired run of 5 tiles ?

Yee-eeaaah, but even 2 more orig tiles may be distinctly different colours from different batches. However, if you threw in two burgundy original tiles it would obviate colour matching problems and possibly even tie in the Cedar colour a bit more?

How did you go sanding the cedar and doing the second coat of AquaCoat, doing the PolyX on the Blackbutt etc? Or has that slipped by the wayside in the face of tragedy?

Good remedial action Alan

It will come up tops

Regards

Keith

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

How did you go sanding the cedar and doing the second coat of AquaCoat, doing the PolyX on the Blackbutt etc? Or has that slipped by the wayside in the face of tragedy?

Some tasks have fallen by the wayside as I have sought solace and counsel from various broken tile support groups. However, life must go on and so I have selflessly continued the crusade started on Saturday of experimenting with finishes to use on the dresser
So far.....

I am very happy with Australian red cedar (ARC), sanded to 320, grain filled with AquaCoat, sanded 240 and 320, AquaCoat again, sanded 240, 320, 400 and 600 and (so far) 4 coats of WOP with a light sanding to 600 in between coats. I found a piece of ARC which had been finished with WOP some years ago and have been experimenting with sanding CURED WOP to 1500#. The final feel can best be described as ‘luscious’!

Some of the internal surfaces of the dresser will be finished plywood. I don’t want that surface to compete with the contents of the dresser such as glassware and bottles of coloured liquids and so I was experimenting with MATT but serviceable surfaces. As you mentioned earlier, that American ash workbench that we both saw at Kyneton, had the most stunning, blonde Matt surface and so that is my inspiration (plagiarism?) for the Polyx RAW finish on the plywood surfaces? I’ve done no more than we started on Saturday at Shane’s?

I have had an epiphany with respect to the stash of blackbutt that has been hiding under the deck for a few years. I’ve had a few cursory attempts to use it but had always found it brittle, splintery and a PITA to finish. I will now be using it for the drawers as the finish that ‘we’ applied on Saturday still invites me to touch it every time I pass........... if only I could remember what ‘we’ did?

Now, while I’m already rambling (my broken tile counsellor says I need to ‘unload’ ) I should address the issue of confidentiality when it comes to the design and installation of the TOP SECRET compartments and latches etc. I will be discussing with our Benevolent Dictator, the possibility of a sealed section but, in the meantime, I’ll just talk in hyperbole and deliberately confuse........... hmmm, that’s what I already do

Originally Posted by fletty

Some tasks have fallen by the wayside as I have sought solace and counsel from various broken tile support groups.

Yeah...I kinda feel the same way atm Different support group though.

Originally Posted by fletty

I am very happy with Australian red cedar (ARC), sanded to 320, grain filled with AquaCoat, sanded 240 and 320, AquaCoat again, sanded 240, 320, 400 and 600 and (so far) 4 coats of WOP with a light sanding to 600 in between coats. I found a piece of ARC which had been finished with WOP some years ago and have been experimenting with sanding CURED WOP to 1500#. The final feel can best be described as ‘luscious’!

Silky feel? Did the 2nd AquaCoat fill those pores? I could feel that the AC on the Cedar was going to sand up nicely. I think my 3 yo AC yields a different result. Dunno why though.

How did the Woodblend sand up? Does it look ok in the grain, or does the AC look better - more cedar like?

Originally Posted by fletty

Polyx RAW finish on the plywood surfaces? I’ve done no more than we started on Saturday at Shane’s?

Ok, sand the first coat with 800, do a 2nd coat, cloth down. Next day sand 800 again. Rinse and repeat at least once more (3 coats min I reckon).

Originally Posted by fletty

I will now be using it for the drawers as the finish that ‘we’ applied on Saturday still invites me to touch it every time I pass........... if only I could remember what ‘we’ did?

AC on the side with the bit of sandpaper snagged in it. Various other fillers on the udder side. The finish grit was 4000 but that was only to show what that does to hardwood - overkill in this case. Given that they are drawer sides you can probably stop at 320/500, and what about just an oil finish? 2 coats quick and easy. Aussie Oil p'raps?

The marble top has left the comfort of the house and headed to the shed...

83F3C525-54D2-422C-B9B5-39F5499C1673.jpg 271A8ABF-0933-47E9-B637-868F9A04A8A0.jpg 5B104773-B301-4330-AB1C-669954405509.jpg

Given my carelessness with the tiles, I was shaking as I carried it!
I was worried about the marble overhanging too much and being used as a handhold to lift the whole cabinet but, now that I can see the result, I have clearly made the cabinet too wide! It is easy enough to reduce the cabinet width so I’ll get on to that tomorrow.

.... a happy little fletty

Wow. That is going to look absolutely fantastic. The whole "breaking of the tiles " is really taking shape now. They would have been just perfect for this piece. I hope you can find a solution.

Originally Posted by cjbfisher

Wow. That is going to look absolutely fantastic. The whole "breaking of the tiles " is really taking shape now. They would have been just perfect for this piece. I hope you can find a solution.

Thanks cj’, IF I can’t fix (enough of...) the broken tiles (and the green powdered pigments are on their way to colour the repair epoxy), my current PLAN B is to get these replica tiles to make a splash back....

B60AB961-170E-45EE-8E64-826A71F65756.jpg CEC671DD-EF94-4352-A546-54D95F06CC70.jpeg

The green in these tiles appears to be a bit closer to the colour of the Afghan Jade marble and the ochre colour will tone with the Australian red cedar? However, what I haven’t told anyone yet (and it is still just between you and me ) is that both the back splat AND the cabinet doors will be changeable with solid timber doors matching a tiled splash back and ‘more elaborate doors made using a skill that I haven’t learned yet’ matching a different back splat which will also require the, as yet, unlearned skill!
I understand that, in the Old Days, this skill required many years to master ........... but they didn’t have YouTube?