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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Victoria
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    Default Outdoor wood slab shower project

    Question: How much of the soft/rotten wood do I need to scrap away?

    It is a redgum slab which will be standing upright outside and have a shower on it. This is the top and backside that you won't see. I have chipped/scraped/cut most of the soft brittle wood and I'm wondering how far I need to go, should I scrap right back to solid wood? The plan is to fill the holes on the back (it is the backside shown in the photo) with black epoxy and then use a marine grade 2 pack poly to seal it up. On the front I will leave some of the holes and make sure I get lots of poly in their to seal them up.

    FullSlab.jpgclose up.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Sorry, but I wouldn't even consider using a slab with that many, and those size cracks in it for the purposes you describe.

    I made some park benches out of something similar and filled the holes with ~$40 worth of epoxy and they lasted about 2 years before the slab split down the middle.

    Maybe an indoor coffee table ?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Victoria
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    Default

    hmmm, don't like the sound of that, this is the backside which is a lot worse than the front side, most of the cracks don't go all the way through. It is also going in a semi-sheltered area so won't be in full sun.

    I'm filling the holes with car body filler which my understanding is very strong and withstands the elements.

    I'm going to go for it, I might kick myself in a few years, time will tell.

    What I want to know is if I'm filling the holes/cracks with filler then 2 pack poly do I still need to completely scrap back to hard wood or is a little bit soft wood here and there going to be fine.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twist View Post
    hmmm, don't like the sound of that, this is the backside which is a lot worse than the front side, most of the cracks don't go all the way through. It is also going in a semi-sheltered area so won't be in full sun..
    Reflected UV is sufficient to affect the finish and the external air temperature range won't be that different even if it is sheltered.

    I'm filling the holes with car body filler which my understanding is very strong and withstands the elements.
    The filler won't be a problem but it will be the junction between the filler the the hard wood. Even if its sealed hard wood, moisture will get into wood it will move and the differential movement between the wood and the filler will eventually pop the

    ]What I want to know is if I'm filling the holes/cracks with filler then 2 pack poly do I still need to completely scrap back to hard wood or is a little bit soft wood here and there going to be fine.
    Any remaining softwood will increase moisture absorption and decrease the amount of time it takes to crack the junction between the filler and wood..

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
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    3,559

    Default

    You wont have to wait a couple of years to start kicking yourself. That slab will continue on is merry way and be in multiple pieces in no time.
    But to answer your question; Best to remove all rot prior to filling. In fact, best to go a little further into the solid wood, as rot spores will have progressed.
    The cracks will require butterflying to prevent them opening further, or at least slow them down, and there are a lot of cracks to deal with.
    Even a solid slab is going to deteriorate to some extent under these conditions. An inferior one is going to be in real trouble.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    Default

    Haven't tried this myself but there are some similar products in the USA that people rave about

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/earls-25...dener_p1585306

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Victoria
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    73

    Default

    hmmmm, by all indications an indoor coffee table is sounding like a better option. Back to the drawing board on the outdoor shower I think.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Victoria
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    Finished my out shower, ended up using using a Stringy Bark reclaimed bridge post. Thanks for steering me clear of using a redgum slab not sure who's crazy idea that was. I'm going to use the redgum for a lego table for the kids.

    Full.jpgPost.jpg

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Albany, Western Australia
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thats great! I would say you ended up with a much better looking result anyway - now and into the future.

    Has given me some ideas for my own

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