Thread: Panel side gate sagging

Im not sure what a screw toggle is but if its the same as a turnbuckle that's the way I would do it.
Cheers

Originally Posted by Stone Monkey

Im not sure what a screw toggle is but if its the same as a turnbuckle that's the way I would do it.
Cheers

Yeah turnbuckle is what I meant - couldn't think of its name!

Are you sure it's the gate sagging and not the post?? The top of the post doesn't have to move much for the gate to sag. If it is the gate, run a tape across corners, to check it is square, you may need to glue the gate together. How many screws are holding each board onto the cross bars and brace? With the design of the gate, I'd doubt that it would/should sag.
Kryn

The diagonal braces look like an add on in response to sagging in the past. Braces are the right way to go but chances are that due to past sagging all the fastenings have strained and enlarged the holes they sit in. Put a new screw in next to every existing one and also ensure every board is screwed to the diagonals. Old timber boats used to develop a condition called nail sick when movement caused metal fastenings to work loose. The whole structure then became sloppy. Fix was new fastenings.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by RussellB

I have a panelled gate (see photo) that I have trouble keeping from sagging, as it drops a few cm over time on the latch side (you can see I've already dropped the lock bolt holder).

I have a feeling that the diagonal bracing is running the wrong way.

I think the "correct" orientation is so that the brace "pulls up" the unsupported bottom corner.

Originally Posted by ian

I have a feeling that the diagonal bracing is running the wrong way.

I think the "correct" orientation is so that the brace "pulls up" the unsupported bottom corner.

And this guy says the opposite

Making Ledge and Brace Doors • WoodArchivist

Rick

I believe that the bracing is in the correct direction ...bottom on hinge side...but I think the they should be longer and fixed directly from cross bar to cross bar on the faces of the cross bar . At the moment they are fixed to the vertical boards which is not the most stable element of the gate to be attached to. It's a matter of transferring the weight load over to the hinge side.

Cross bar at top fixed to hinge then the brace taking the download under compression to the next cross bar down....as so forth to the bottom hinge.

My 2c


Brace.jpg

I would check if the gate has bowed at the centre rail. If it has , add a centre hinge & see how that goes.

Originally Posted by ian

I have a feeling that the diagonal bracing is running the wrong way.

My rule of thumb is that when working with wood, have the brace in compression. But with steel contraction. Based on that, I'd suggest it's correct as is.

Rather then trying to fix it, rebuild it with the steel frames made by Fortress gates. They are available from Bunnings.

I used them more then 25 years ago to make two small gates and never had a problem with them.

Peter.

Sturdee got it right in one.

I have used these extensively and they are fantastic, in fact, just completed one yesterday 2600 wide with 1800 cypress pickets, used a 25mm x 3mm metal brace, works a dream.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

Rather then trying to fix it, rebuild it with the steel frames made by Fortress gates. They are available from Bunnings.

I used them more then 25 years ago to make two small gates and never had a problem with them.

Peter.

Use them all the time very easy to use

The braces are the correct position but are only relying on the screws. The braces should be notched into the rails so that in compression they are working. As stated earlier the fixings have become loose due to the prior sagging so unless they are replaced and the braces properly notched it will continue to sag.

As an aside timber braces work in compression and metal braces usually work best in tension. Braces in tension would be in the opposite angle. Cable and a turn buckle will solve the problem in your case if fitted correctly.

Col
Lara. Vic

I'm no expert but I have put 3 or 4 hinges on such wooden gates. On your one I would definitely have 3 hinges.
I would definately double check the post that is holding everything up. I also would be suspicious that all the fixings have allowed movement as mentioned by someone else.
Having inherited a few wooden gates I personally wouldn't waste too much energy on it. If a quick fix didn't solve it I'd be replacing it and that metal frame idea looks the business.

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