Thread: Plans for a hall bench

Thanks poundy, that's the one, now all I need is some plans with measurements.

SB

Originally Posted by Superbunny

Thanks poundy, that's the one, now all I need is some plans with measurements.

SB

so do you have shot or long legs?

and is Mrs SB much shorter than you are?

Originally Posted by ian

so do you have shot or long legs?

and is Mrs SB much shorter than you are?

Hi Ian, I had a feeling you’d chime in. We share short legs I guess and I see why that will make a difference.

SB

Yes, I need something woodworking like to do

Originally Posted by Superbunny

now all I need is some plans with measurements.

I'm not entirely happy with the shape of the legs, but these should get you started

Well I never, Ian has done it again, they are almost perfect. I can adapt these easily to get the final finished style I'm after, thanks a lot Ian, fantastic job. Sorry this comes to an end for you now you have nothing to do while that ankle heals. I'm restoring a cedar chest of draws I have posted in the renovation sub forum at the moment but when I'm finished this will be my next project and I will post pics of its progression as usual. Thanks again Ian


SB

Just for info

• I used imperial because the bench in the picture was sized with imperial dimensions.
• The bench is designed for a slip seat. (I haven't included a sketch of the seat frame.)
• because the bench is for your own personal use, I suggest that you adjust the height to match a chair that you and Mrs SB find "just the right height".
• ditto for width. I don't think you would want to go much wider than about 48 inches (1200 mm), and if you go narrower than about 40 inches the bench will become a one seater. As it is, 37 inches between the legs represents two generous "railway bums" (the railway seating ditty used to be: 17 inches per bum and 17 bums to the ton).
• the legs are scaled so that they can be cut from a nominal 6" wide board. (I understand that 6" rough sawn dresses to around 120 mm wide.) I suggest drawing full scale on some MDF and then playing with the profile somewhat to fine tune the shape. Once happy, make a router template.
• I went with 1-1/4" (30 mm) thick legs because I though 1-1/2" (38 mm) legs looked too heavy. Your taste may differ.
• I've drawn the bench with 1/8" (3 mm) reveals.
• This then meant that the rails were 7/8" (22mm) thick. 19 mm (4/3") or 25 mm (1") thick rails would work just as well. Just keep the reveal on the outside.
• I've drawn a center brace and glue blocks, but cross braces at the 1/3 points would work as well.
• I haven't shown it, but the cross braces would be supported on cleats screwed into the long rails. If you are up to the challenge the cross braces could be dovetailed into the cleats, but a pair of brads through each brace and into the cleat would work just as well and be as "traditional".
• Construction wise, I've assumed the front and rear rails would be M&T'd into the legs as step 1.
  Step 2 would be add the side rails and the two crest rails. The crest rails could be located with a pair of dowels, or a 1 to 1-1/2" round tenon fitting into a shallow round mortise. The round mortise could be drilled with a suitably sized forstner bit.
  The side rails could be doweled -- if your drilling equipment is up to it -- or M&T'd through the front rail tenon.
  Step 3 would be the battens and cross rails, followed by the glue blocks.