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  1. #31
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    I read a comment somewhere attributed to builder of log frame houses that "mortise joints should be loose enough to be driven in with your hat".
    Not sure that I would entirely agree but I take it that he was meaning not to make them too tight when you have to assemble them in awkward places.
    Ill watch your build with interest.
    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

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  3. #32
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    Mar 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony_A View Post
    I read a comment somewhere attributed to builder of log frame houses that "mortise joints should be loose enough to be driven in with your hat".
    Not sure that I would entirely agree but I take it that he was meaning not to make them too tight when you have to assemble them in awkward places.
    Ill watch your build with interest.
    Tony
    Thanks Tony. Yeah ok, I think ideally you probably want a fit with zero slop but not necessarily super tight either. I'll be happy provided my joints aren't sloppy and actually come together! I suppose the timber should all shrink fairly uniformly so if it fits without splitting I don't expect any problems. Even if I have to apply the new hammer!

    Cheers, Dom

  4. #33
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    Feb 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by DomAU View Post
    Thanks Tony. Yeah ok, I think ideally you probably want a fit with zero slop but not necessarily super tight either. I'll be happy provided my joints aren't sloppy and actually come together! I suppose the timber should all shrink fairly uniformly so if it fits without splitting I don't expect any problems. Even if I have to apply the new hammer!
    Dom, you need to remember that you are building a timber frame STRUCTURE not a piece of furniture.

    What that means is that you do not need, nor can achieve furniture standard "flat" "straight" or "square" -- which doesn't matter because you are cutting joints to match what you have not dressing a stick to size and creating a joint for strength and appearance.
    Secondly, unlike a piece of furniture in a timber frame a joint goes together once and stays together. Where required it is held together with a peg or two, not glue and clamps. (Yeah I know that you will probably do most of your joint cutting in your garage, but see the next point.)
    Lastly, framing sticks are too heavy / too long to easily pick up and show to the mating piece -- so you really want to minimise the number of times each stick is picked up and manipulated.


    we're waiting for the WIP picks
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #34
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    Aug 2008
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    Birkdale
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    279

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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post


    we're waiting for the WIP picks
    With eager anticipation.

  6. #35
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    With antici.................pation.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
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    2,015

    Default Post and Beam experience

    Hi Dom
    I went through a similar process a few years ago to build my shed and pergola.

    I think,just like you, the first things I made were a pair of sawhorses and a big mallet.

    My tools were similar to yours. A circular saw, router, drills and big chisels.

    Maybe you could flick through my long thread in the Shed forum. There might be a few ideas in it for you:

    A Real Workshop

    Once you have your plan and the first few mortices and tenons made it is pretty routine. Just take your time and enjoy the process.
    Happy to help if you have any questions.

    Scally
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  8. #37
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    Aug 2004
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    Default Real Workshop pic

    Here is a pic of my pergola and shed.

    The timber is a mixture of hardwoods.

    Shed posts are 300mm x 300mm
    Pergola posts are 200mm x 200mm. Front and back beams are 300mm x 100mm.

    Shed is 6m x 6m x 3.8m high at the front.
    Pergola is 10m x 3m x 3.2m

    Everything was big, hard and heavy.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  9. #38
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    Mar 2015
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    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
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    Wow Scally. Looks great, and those are some very large posts and beams! Mine are small by comparison; except for maybe my tie-beams which are 240x160mm.

    Thanks for sharing. I just had a look at your thread - no pics? I'll have a good scroll through when I have a bit of time - no pics makes it hard to find the bits you need without reading every word! Thanks.

  10. #39
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    I only just got the rest of my timber (plus a few replacements) late this week so i'm finally ready to start doing something.

    I knocked up a quick drawing on the computer because i realised my small pencil drawings were not going to give me accurate dimensions.

    IMG_20180702_075305_088.jpg

    Also picked up a second hand Makita 1806B planer as doing it with hand planes was going to get tiring and old fast.
    IMG_20180710_185651_654.jpg

    No fence with it so I made one today - has adjustment for square.

    IMG_20180714_123221_331.jpg

    20180714_194702.jpg

    20180714_194721.jpg

    Dressed the first beam and realised getting a square beam that size out of a slightly diamond shaped one is not quick or easy. The beam also has a bit of bow in it. Nothing to be done about that - I'll just ink-line a straight line and measure joinery from that.

    I'm going to start with two posts and a tie beam first. Then make a couple of braces and join the first frame minus rafters and king post. Then onwards...

    Really considering buying a makita chain mortiser. One test mortise took quite a bit of time and effort with an undersize drill bit and chisels. Hard work.

    Cheers, Dom

  11. #40
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Good job Dom.

    There may be a helical head available for that planer. I know Dave TTC fitted one to his Mak, but it might have been a smaller model. Might well be worth a PM to him to get a link.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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  12. #41
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    Mar 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Good job Dom.

    There may be a helical head available for that planer. I know Dave TTC fitted one to his Mak, but it might have been a smaller model. Might well be worth a PM to him to get a link.
    Thanks mate. I think that maybe they they are made for the 155mm older model. In any case I'm not looking to upgrade- the hss blades cut very well and leave a nice finish. Don't really want to invest any more money in this tool. Would rather put it towards a chain mortiser tbh.

    Cheers, Dom

  13. #42
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    Jul 2017
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    Hey dom. Good to see some progress. I recently thought about purchasing the 1806 or kp312 but ended up building a long infeed/outfeed system with a sled to go through the thicknesser and efficiently straightened and squared up a couple hundred metres of douglas fur. It is a good workout moving the beams around haha but the oregon isn't so bad. I thought i'd let you know that I bought a boring machine and it arrived a few weeks back. I'm going to replace the timber components because many of them are cracked, but it cost me around $400 total(including shipping) with a few drill bits cuts a straight hole pretty quickly. I'm no expert but I found it gets the job done quickly and enjoyably, not too much more cleanup than with the mortiser. I noticed that mortisers are plentiful and cheap coming from japan around $1000 aud with shipping.I wonder how hard it would be to get them to run properly given the differences in electrical supply.

  14. #43
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    Jul 2017
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    P.s I just saw this tenon cutter in my youtube travels, definately not value if just doing a small job but anything with 4 blades has to be a good thing hahaha
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANCmMOuB-Vw

  15. #44
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    Aug 2011
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    bilpin
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    When building with heavy timbers or logs there is always the probability they are still carrying a significant amount of moisture. This being the case, the member will contract on itself as it dries. Any mortise and tenon type joint will be subject to dimensional change in the process. The mortise shrinks in size as does the tenon, but not necessarily to the same degree as the timber volume in each member is different. Hence the comment about a hat slapping fit.

  16. #45
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    the member will contract on itself as it dries.
    Yeah, mine usually does.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

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