Thread: Power and hand together (10): Skyhooks

I literally woke up in the middle of the night (it happens when one is 73) and considered what would happen if the construction was tipped over on its side. The strength of the bracket is weak in lateral movement - perhaps not these, but in design. Consequently, this is not the connection I want to use, and I will go back to Plan A.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Besides you just know that sometime, somewhere an ignoramus is going to use it as a step ladder.

6mm dia stainless or brass pin in the top of the leg into blind hole in carcase..... just a thought

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I literally woke up in the middle of the night (it happens when one is 73)

Derek

Derek

Thanks for the heads up. I wouldn't have known what was going on. 36 days to go .

Regards
Paul

PS: The nightstand looks good. I have only tried a floating appearance once and that was with our bed.

Personally I think Plan B was the better option; ideally the brackets would have been better mortised into the legs but dowelling or screwing will still give adequate support.

What I disliked immediately about that floating table top in Plan A is the potential torsional load being applied to that one single skinny beam. The sketch is exactly that; a sketch and if it has been built then I expect it wouldn’t be holding up very well in actual use. One teenager’s elbow would allow the top to tilt towards him. It probably won’t break but will flex due to the available leverage.

If you do go with that idea then can I recommend that you use two thin beams down the middle rather than one thick one? They don’t need to be widely spaced.

Hi CT

That is essentially what I had in mind originally (before being seduced by mini brackets in the corners). I do not like the brace example I posted, but could not find one as per my own design. The one posted has, in my opinion, limited stability since it is centred on a single rail. In mine, there are two rails. The rails will incorporate raised sections at the centres to attach the cabinet. So, just two (raised) rails, attached with sliding dovetails (from underneath).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Came looking for a Siberian Jukebox ...

I like plan B because it is neat and elegant. If it becomes an impromptu step ladder and breaks, it will be an easy fix.

I know you want the floating look but if you would consider an alternative: I was expecting to see the case nested inside shallow (3-5 mm) notches on the inside of the legs.

Originally Posted by GRadice

I know you want the floating look but if you would consider an alternative: I was expecting to see the case nested inside shallow (3-5 mm) notches on the inside of the legs.

What happens if the table is bumped or, worse still, knocked over?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

What happens if the table is bumped or, worse still, knocked over?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I guess I'd say, "Well, don't do that!"

More seriously: Assuming the tables will be next to a bed and against a wall I think your scenario is unlikely. And the splayed legs and low profile make it very stable. If, however, a table does get knocked over, that would happen whether the top is connected or not and any damage would be similar.

But, I take your point. Stuff happens, especially when furniture is moved around. If you want a firm connection, you could still use your brackets, just lower their position along the leg. Or substitute a metal L bracket with one arm let into the leg and epoxied and the other and screwed to the bottom of the cabinet.

Having said all that, your brackets seem plenty secure to me.

GR, my alternative to the corner brackets is more substantial and a lot more work, but also likely to be harder to detect. I start on this today. It will be a fun challenge - making and fitting angled sliding dovetails. Mmmm …

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Personally I think Plan B was the better option; ideally the brackets would have been better mortised into the legs but dowelling or screwing will still give adequate support. ...

Now, then, CT, it is Derek's project - no short cuts - sliding dovetails as a minimum!

Derek, more seriously, are you agonising unnecessarily? I frequently get my knickers in a knot over (usually) very minor design details. Classic paralysis by analysis.

I have never knocked over a dining table or a bedside table and consider that likelihood to be extremely remote. Then if a super clumbsy person did knock over a bedside cabinet, why would a one piece construction be inherently stronger than a two piece version?

Now I do like the illusion of a floating top. These are normally viwed from an eye height of 1500 mm and your "hidden support" will be around 500 mm from the floor. Either of your support methods should work well and not be intrusive. With your first option, I think a matt black rod would be a little less obvious than a light reflecting silver nut.

Loved the way you wrapped the grain aound those really tight corners - delightful.

Graeme, I'm not agonising at all.

The corner brackets were wrong on a number of levels. They actually were never on my agenda - just an idea created by the nuts when I placed them on the legs to see the effect of the cabinet floating. It gave me the idea. But now I am back to my original plan, and much happier that I have done so.

Regards from Perth

Derek