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Thread: red cedar bar
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16th February 2011, 10:33 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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I like the idea of embedding something in the hole. Sort of like the things Claw Hama puts under his tables.
I was thinking that given it's going to end up as a bar top in a blokey space down the south coast, what about embedding some polished sinkers, or fishing lures or something like that?
I don't know much about resin, but I would be experimenting regardless on some scrap.
Scott
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16th February 2011 10:33 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th February 2011, 11:01 AM #17Senior Member
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Resin
I got the idea after talking to you yesterday when I was picking up sandstocks!The cherubs are sort of cute ,kitsch & goofy all at once. I like that school of sculpture that uses found objects,I posted some pictures on a thread of a piece I own that I just love by Anita Larkin. Good idea to mix it up more than 1 cherub & it may look like a mass grave The hole is so irregular& its depth varies, I can justify playing around with it till I get it right. I have 5 cherubs so I can sacrifice some to experimentation Resin will have to be clear. Thats is one hell of a studio you have created,really something
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17th February 2011, 10:13 PM #18
I think it's casting resin that u want, it sets clear and hard, Bunnies has it dont know how much it is tho....
Pete
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17th February 2011, 10:23 PM #19Senior Member
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resin
My nearest Bunnings not that helpfull I will try again with casting resin as the description & hope I dont get a blank look Im ahead of myself anyway sanding is taking forever only just got to 120 tonight & Im worn out. Thanks for the tip
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17th February 2011, 10:40 PM #20
Ask for Diggers Casting Resin
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20th February 2011, 10:02 PM #21Senior Member
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resin
Thanks for tip I have used their paintstripper on a couple of restoration projects. How much volume can you fill with it in one go ? I assume you overfill & sand ( more dust),border could be plasticine from the art shop?? Had a rest this weekend, & tried to clean up a bit. Wish I had a shed!!
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21st February 2011, 09:33 AM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm guessing you fill it in increments. Resin heats up and an big blob of it going off could crack. It will say it on the can. I'm not sure about sanding the top? I guess you sand it and then coat the timber and resin infill with whatever you're finishing the table with. I'll need to do something similar soon so it would be good if you could make all the mistakes on your piece and then post the right way to do stuff.
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21st February 2011, 10:42 AM #23Senior Member
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resin
You did read the bit about me being the worst woodwork student since the war didnt you?Im going to have a trial run practising on a spare bit of redgum I found in garden shed &/or some old fence I have thats normally feul for the backyard pizza oven. I figure if I screw up tou just get your cheapest chisel & sacrifice it to digging it back out again
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27th February 2011, 03:49 PM #24Senior Member
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- Apr 2009
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- Sydney
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Feast watson tung oil satin floor seal
I was in Bunnings looking for FW satin floorseal as per Clawhammers instructions & came across FW TUNG OIL SATIN FLOOR SEAL didnt have my glasses so couldnt read microscopic print on can. Is this a better option for my red cedar bartop Or is it just another marketing exercise I assume I keep to the original plan 4-5 coats light sand between each one then cut it back with 1200 wet& dry with 50-50 linseed & turps.Followed by 0000 steelwool rubdown with same oil mix. Still pondering resin fill,found the product at least but may be at outer edge of my skill set
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28th February 2011, 03:10 PM #25Senior Member
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FW Tung oil satin floor seal
Found an old thread in meantime that gives this product a good review
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28th February 2011, 09:16 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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Magnifent slab . Looking forward to seeing the finished top .
I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan
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28th February 2011, 09:50 PM #27Senior Member
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slab
Mal Ward gave me a choice of 2 after I rattled off my wish list,he did a great job. Im just plugging away creating dust at moment,filling the bigger holes the real challenge now. If I dont fill them somebody will put a glass down & it will topple I hope to get a full day in this w/e. I tried filling 2 smaller holes & 3 cracks with araldite clear but the holes never set properly so I dug it out. This forum has been an enormous help,the accumulated knowledge of the membership is hard to quantify but theres a lot of wisdom that can be accessed I hope to post some photos of where its going to be installed in the near future. Thanks for the encouragement.
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28th February 2011, 10:31 PM #28
G'day moikel,
Skip Bunnings for the resin and give Barnes a call. They do internet sales and also have their warehouse near Bankstown where you can call in and purchase items. The resins are usually ok to post but the hardeners and catalysts are classified as dangerous goods so cost quite a bit to freight around.
These guys actually know what they are doing and will give you some quality advice on which type of casting resin you should use.
I haven't done much casting but I prefer epoxy for all my other resin uses over polyester as it's been found to be generally more stable in it's cured form and doesn't shrink as much during cure. The Diggers Casting resin is a polyester product.
Be sure to heed the warnings on heat buildup with a pour that size.Last edited by stevemc32; 28th February 2011 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Add the data sheet.
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1st March 2011, 08:52 AM #29Senior Member
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resin
Thanks for the info I am in Bankstown next week & will check these guys out.Always a plus to deal with people who know their productI would love to get this fill done on the first attempt,minimal shrinkage a plus I will concentrate on sanding & putting dam around holes till then.
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3rd March 2011, 10:51 PM #30Member
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- Jul 2007
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- Whittlesea, Victoria
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Hi Moikel, i use epoxy quite regularly and love the stuff! In regards to filling, i tape up the underside with wide masking tape. With a hole that size, clamping a piece of timber underneath would be advised as the weight of the epoxy will create a sag. Make sure if you do use masking tape, that you cover the surrounds of the hole as well in case it wanders a little.
You'll need to fill in seperate amounts as it will crack as previously mentioned with a large amount all at once, due to the heat it produces. Also, if you don't want it see through, some colouring mixed in works well and only needs to be mixed into the first batch, to cover the bottom. I use black colouring in red gum and find it looks brilliant, like the gum veins.
Hope some of this helped,
Paul
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