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Thread: red cedar bar

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default epoxy

    Thanks a million,I think I will use masking tape & piece of scrap I have a big outdoor woodfired oven I built 10 years ago theres plenty of scrap timber Ive scrounged for for fuel.I figure if I use a border around edges of hot glue or similiar to stop it wandering on top surface & just do one pour at a time. Theres the big hole in photo ,2 little holes where I hit soft/rotten patches & 2 trenches about 10mm down to 4mm by 100mm by maybe 10mm deep. The big decision now is clear or coloured,Ive seen redgum & jarrah done with black it looked brilliant

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  3. #32
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    Nov 2006
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    Another tip with making dams is to use blutack, u can shape it push it pull it, plug odd shaped holes, and then when u r done u can use it again

    Pete

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    Hi Moikel, the Tung oil option would also be fine for a bar top. I just use the poly on a lot of my pieces that I'm selling because I know how tuff it is but I figure anything for floors has to be fine on a table or bar. Once you have some finish on we'll need another photo. I liked the sound of the fishing lure. A bloke that lives near my workshop makes timber fishing lures (he gets some of my offcuts now and then) they look old school are realy cool.
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    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  5. #34
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    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    112

    Default resin

    The issue is clear with bits of my history or black without. I have a wedding ring from wife 1 that doesnt look like a wedding ring ,that I dont wear. Its 2 intertwined snakes ( french art deco) & a spike of a phoenix serrata palm that was imbedded in my left hand for 2 years before surgeon removed it (36mm x6mm narrowed down to 2mm. I found it the other day in a jar it was 16years ago that I had the accident it looks like it came off the tree yesterday I have a memento from my late father so I figure I will set them in the resin rather than have them gather dust in as drawer somewhere.

  6. #35
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    Jul 2007
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    Whittlesea, Victoria
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    43
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    88

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    could do both if you like, as in the first batch with black tint so it's not a see through hole, clear with subsequent batches to place the ring in. The black would give a background that the ring would stand out against as well

  7. #36
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    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default resin

    Great idea SandowI will do that I will get a better contrast with gold ring against black background,I m sure I have an old red & white wooden fishing lure in tacklebox down the coast I will retrieve next w/e. Have tomorrow set aside for more sanding,working on edges & squaring off both ends. I might even fill the smaller holes/trenchs with resin & black oxide if I can get on a roll. Will post some pictures then.

  8. #37
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    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default resin

    Poured casting resin tinted it up jet black with oxide. Not 100% successful artists clay not best dam material So its going to need 2 pours, its shrunk in the 2 trenchs & the big hole leaked around the edge of scrap timber. Nothing critical but theres going to be a bit of scraping /sanding to tidy up edges. I figure you just sand off the leakage when its set. Will go with border around in mastic let it set then pour.I suppose thats why they call it a learning curve

  9. #38
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    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default resin

    News flash you cant tint a polymer resin with a water soluble oxide. I had some black that Id used to mix with cement to do a chimney repairon woodfired oven. Back to square 1.Will dig out the still tacky casting resin & go with Sandows advice & head to Barnes in Bankstown.

  10. #39
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    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default resin

    Barnes at Bankstown the right people First pour a success followed tips about masking tape got a good solid bond in big hole,jet black. Will pour clear this week,its hard not being able to work at night. Wife 2 pointed out that she didnt want to look at wife 1 wedding ring while drinking her chardy or any other time for that matter So have decided to put a pair of my late fathers cufflinks in clear resin together with old red/white fishing lure. Nothing else keep it simple Hope to post a bunch of photos shortly.

  11. #40
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    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default resin

    Heres a photo of hole fill,I had to overfill trenchs due to contour I had created digging out attempt 1. Preliminary sanding & its a bit hazy hope to pick it up when I get to finishing grade Big hole went well

  12. #41
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    May 2007
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    North of the coathanger, Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by moikel View Post
    Barnes at Bankstown the right people First pour a success followed tips about masking tape got a good solid bond in big hole,jet black. Will pour clear this week,its hard not being able to work at night. Wife 2 pointed out that she didnt want to look at wife 1 wedding ring while drinking her chardy or any other time for that matter So have decided to put a pair of my late fathers cufflinks in clear resin together with old red/white fishing lure. Nothing else keep it simple Hope to post a bunch of photos shortly.
    I did wonder what current wife would think of the wedding ring idea

    finished yet?
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    112

    Default resin

    Anything for a quiet life, I hope to pour the next layer today. Ive been laying bricks down the coast all w/e. Got tools on both sites,down coast better work space than front verandah in Sydney but can only get there every couple of weeks.

  14. #43
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    Oct 2008
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    Sydney
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    Glad to hear the guys at Barnes got you sorted out.

    It's looking good and should polish up quite nice once you get to the finishing grades.

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sydney
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    112

    Default resin

    What grade of sandpaper will I need to polish resin. Im at 240 now,was going to follow Clawhamers advice& go to 360,for the forlorn hope of not to much more dust was going to stop there.

  16. #45
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    Oct 2008
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    Sydney
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    You could go all the way to 12000 grit with those nifty little polishing pads and get a super result on the epoxy alone but if you're going to apply some sort of finish over the top then it's the finish that will determine the final result.

    What's the plan for the final finish?

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