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Thread: red cedar bar
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21st March 2011, 11:30 AM #76Senior Member
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Annoying bit
In the first photo I posted on 20th in the bottom left corner above hole fill theres an arc of crap for want of a better word. I am geussing & its a long time since I cut fence posts with my dad back on the farm but if the saw has come through the void that I since filled & deposited some oil or its spread something that was in the natural void from blade. The void was rotten I cleaned it out with chisel& wirebrush maybe some creature was living in it & met some grisley end. Either way It looks like its been burned on by friction, I dont want to leave it now after getting rest of it into pretty good shape.It only became obvious when I put 1st coat of FW tung oil floor finish on it & the difference between surfaces was then obvious.
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21st March 2011, 06:13 PM #77Senior Member
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finish
Work interrupted by roof leak & big bit of ceiling,plaster rose & light fitting biting the dust. 3rd coat on,had another attempt at crappy bit but whatever it is its in too deep Ill just have to live with it.I have to wait for ultra fine abrasives from Sandpaperman to sand off highspot I created when trying to fill low spot with resin. Figure I will just continue with finishing process on balance of slab,so I can clean up sooner rather than later & get to steelwool finish.
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21st March 2011, 06:26 PM #78Senior Member
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3rd coat
Not bad
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21st March 2011, 08:53 PM #79
Attachment 164889
Is this the 'arc of crap' moikel? I honestly can't see anything in it that doesn't look like natural colour variation around the figured grain area. With the exception of maybe a flag, some lures and a pair of cufflinks...
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21st March 2011, 09:01 PM #80Senior Member
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thats it
The arc of crap I will have to live with It took finish differently & looked weird .Looks better now but it was like something was smeared on it Levels around it have now changed so resin sanding ahead of me
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22nd March 2011, 11:25 AM #81Senior Member
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finish question
Im using a brush to apply FW tungoil floorseal. Now at 4th coat. I give it a light sand with 320 grit between coats which removes any obvious brush marks,but what happens at the 1200 wet/dry stage(50/50 turps linseed oil).Will that remove brush marks from last coat Should I be sanding with higher grade paper between coats as I get to coats 5& 6. Bought a 4 litre can of FW so unlikely to run out .If this has an startlingly obvious answer fine Im just getting to home stretch & getting cautious First time for everything
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24th March 2011, 03:12 PM #82Senior Member
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finish coat 6
Coat 6 I think Diluted FW floorseal with 20% turps,waited 24 hours,humidity dropped ,applied it with lambswool glove,better result Will do 1 more then go to wet/dry 1200 grit & then 0000 steelwool. First person that spills a drink on this bar better watch out
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24th March 2011, 07:48 PM #83
That's one nice bit of wood
You are doing goodregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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24th March 2011, 11:01 PM #84Senior Member
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closing stages
Its a great bit of wood that I played with without screwing up I will get it a bit further along then stop while I lay bricks down south.I havent done anything that involves a lot of skill & actual hands on woodwork,mortices etc or anything else that proper woodworkers do but Ive had some fun And I learnt a lot thanks to this forum My masonry is more advanced than my woodwork I hope to post some photos of actual bar room soon. This one is an earlier stage,I have to tie it to block wall & get plinth done then attach bar top so I have a bit ahead of me
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25th March 2011, 08:33 AM #85
Great result moikel, well done!
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25th March 2011, 04:14 PM #86Senior Member
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finish
Start wet/dry tomorrow,got some extra tuition from clawhammer Bar will be set on plinth so that wild grain up the middle of slab is on plinth which is 225mm wide with a 325mm column at wide end. Obviously its a natural organic shape so I am conveniently excused from being to precise I will set it with construction adhesive & stabilize it with brass angle brackets that I found at Chippendale Restorations today. Also got a solid bit of brass bar 65mmx5mm x970mm at Hallidays engineering in Balmain that I will get bent at 90 degrees to run along endgrain&turn corner. They will predrill /counter sink screw holes as well I just have to polish it thats ok I have lots of wet/dry paperThe short end, 100mm ,will stop the end from catching you when you walk behind bar.I may have to trim end of bar to a better 90 degree.
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25th March 2011, 11:43 PM #87Member
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sorry haven't been looking to the forums for a while. Sanding epoxy is just like sanding timber, starting on say 180 grit, you'll get some scratches in it but by working through the higher grits, those scratches will be sanded out. Eventually it will be clear to look at. If it's starting too high abover the timber, can even carefully use a belt sander to take it down to level, then hit it with your random orbital if avail.
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26th March 2011, 03:30 PM #88Senior Member
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finish
Steelwool finish,.Pretty smooth,it will be nice to pack the sanders away Transfering my efforts to brass end cover & install down coast.
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27th March 2011, 11:56 AM #89Member
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looks very nice mate, love the colour
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27th March 2011, 07:40 PM #90
That bit you didn't like, is, I think, pretty natural
as I've said before that is a stunning piece of wood - magic bar topregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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