Thread: red cedar bar

Work interrupted by roof leak & big bit of ceiling,plaster rose & light fitting biting the dust. 3rd coat on,had another attempt at crappy bit but whatever it is its in too deep Ill just have to live with it.I have to wait for ultra fine abrasives from Sandpaperman to sand off highspot I created when trying to fill low spot with resin. Figure I will just continue with finishing process on balance of slab,so I can clean up sooner rather than later & get to steelwool finish.

Not bad

Attachment 164889

Is this the 'arc of crap' moikel? I honestly can't see anything in it that doesn't look like natural colour variation around the figured grain area. With the exception of maybe a flag, some lures and a pair of cufflinks...

The arc of crap I will have to live with It took finish differently & looked weird .Looks better now but it was like something was smeared on it Levels around it have now changed so resin sanding ahead of me

Im using a brush to apply FW tungoil floorseal. Now at 4th coat. I give it a light sand with 320 grit between coats which removes any obvious brush marks,but what happens at the 1200 wet/dry stage(50/50 turps linseed oil).Will that remove brush marks from last coat Should I be sanding with higher grade paper between coats as I get to coats 5& 6. Bought a 4 litre can of FW so unlikely to run out .If this has an startlingly obvious answer fine Im just getting to home stretch & getting cautious First time for everything

Coat 6 I think Diluted FW floorseal with 20% turps,waited 24 hours,humidity dropped ,applied it with lambswool glove,better result Will do 1 more then go to wet/dry 1200 grit & then 0000 steelwool. First person that spills a drink on this bar better watch out

That's one nice bit of wood
You are doing good

Its a great bit of wood that I played with without screwing up I will get it a bit further along then stop while I lay bricks down south.I havent done anything that involves a lot of skill & actual hands on woodwork,mortices etc or anything else that proper woodworkers do but Ive had some fun And I learnt a lot thanks to this forum My masonry is more advanced than my woodwork I hope to post some photos of actual bar room soon. This one is an earlier stage,I have to tie it to block wall & get plinth done then attach bar top so I have a bit ahead of me

Great result moikel, well done!

Start wet/dry tomorrow,got some extra tuition from clawhammer Bar will be set on plinth so that wild grain up the middle of slab is on plinth which is 225mm wide with a 325mm column at wide end. Obviously its a natural organic shape so I am conveniently excused from being to precise I will set it with construction adhesive & stabilize it with brass angle brackets that I found at Chippendale Restorations today. Also got a solid bit of brass bar 65mmx5mm x970mm at Hallidays engineering in Balmain that I will get bent at 90 degrees to run along endgrain&turn corner. They will predrill /counter sink screw holes as well I just have to polish it thats ok I have lots of wet/dry paperThe short end, 100mm ,will stop the end from catching you when you walk behind bar.I may have to trim end of bar to a better 90 degree.

sorry haven't been looking to the forums for a while. Sanding epoxy is just like sanding timber, starting on say 180 grit, you'll get some scratches in it but by working through the higher grits, those scratches will be sanded out. Eventually it will be clear to look at. If it's starting too high abover the timber, can even carefully use a belt sander to take it down to level, then hit it with your random orbital if avail.

Steelwool finish,.Pretty smooth,it will be nice to pack the sanders away Transfering my efforts to brass end cover & install down coast.

looks very nice mate, love the colour

That bit you didn't like, is, I think, pretty natural

as I've said before that is a stunning piece of wood - magic bar top