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Thread: Slab side table without apron
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13th October 2018, 06:04 PM #16
I suggest you wedge the tenons -- align the wedge so that it acts across the grain in the top, and use a species with a contrasting colour
wedged through tenons are very simple to do -- just drill a cross hole (~2mm dia) near the shoulder of the tenon and use a hand saw to create the slot. Make the wedge no steeper than about 10 degrees.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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13th October 2018 06:04 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th October 2018, 06:06 PM #17
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13th October 2018, 06:21 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Ian - yes, the legs will be cleaned up before a test fit. There is a good couple of mm on the shoulders still and the surfaces are respectable, so I'm hoping it'll be OK.
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26th October 2018, 06:56 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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So, finally got this finished - happy with it so far, will see how it goes with some wood movement:
Finish is a bit more 'rustic' than I was hoping for, but the joy of it being furniture for my own use is that I get to decide how much sanding is enough.
Lessons learnt:
Take more time when flush cutting to save time with fixing your mistakes.
Eyeballing a taper is difficult - next time I'll do the maths (or a prototype).
I need to find a better way of cutting feet to get a flat and level table... Or improve my technique with a hand saw!
Next project (might be a desk) I think I'll go a little more complex and have a go at staked legs and sliding dovetails...
Cheers,
Danny
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27th October 2018, 08:42 AM #20Senior Member
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It looks great in the photo. What is the timber?
On wood movement, my neighbour has a hall table in silky oak I think. Purchased from a local gallery style wood shop at a hefty price. It sat for two years in a very stable spot in the house, then over a week it developed a huge bow at one end of the top. Luckily they like the shape, but I was surprised that it would remain stable for so long, and then move with no noticeable changes in the environmental conditions.
Isn’t wood interesting!
Bruce
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27th October 2018, 09:22 AM #21Intermediate Member
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I would ordinarily suggest to use dowels, as many as you can fit in, used with epoxy gap filling glue.
Turning the leg tops to 65 mm is a sound alternative, when you have a lathe, which most folk don't have.
If the table top is 45 mm or so I can't see this method failing, although rough handling which unduly stresses the glue joints should be avoided. This assumes you plan to mount the legs directly into the table top. I am unsure how you plan to stabilise your top to control shrinking & warping?
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27th October 2018, 10:55 AM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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bruceward51, the top is blackheart sassafras and the legs are blackwood. It was a particularly nice bit of BHS and that's my last bit of it, will be looking out for more with similar colour!
peterlonz, honestly my plan to handle warping is to let it warp and see how it goes. Partly that's a desire to keep it clean and simple, and partly a desire to watch it and learn - the benefit of a piece that's sitting in my own kitchen and only needs to keep me happy, not anyone else!
Cheers,
Danny
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