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  1. #16
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    I suggest you wedge the tenons -- align the wedge so that it acts across the grain in the top, and use a species with a contrasting colour



    wedged through tenons are very simple to do -- just drill a cross hole (~2mm dia) near the shoulder of the tenon and use a hand saw to create the slot. Make the wedge no steeper than about 10 degrees.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post


    Considering popping some round plugs into the center of the tenons, more to make it fancier than for strength (I am hoping this never gets subjected to more force than a glued ~63mm diameter tenon through ~45mm of slab can handle!).
    Hi Danny
    you may want to completely clean those legs up before installing them.
    From here it looks like that once fully sanded, you will loose most if not all of the tenon shoulder.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
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    Thanks Ian - yes, the legs will be cleaned up before a test fit. There is a good couple of mm on the shoulders still and the surfaces are respectable, so I'm hoping it'll be OK.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    So, finally got this finished - happy with it so far, will see how it goes with some wood movement:



    Finish is a bit more 'rustic' than I was hoping for, but the joy of it being furniture for my own use is that I get to decide how much sanding is enough.

    Lessons learnt:

    Take more time when flush cutting to save time with fixing your mistakes.
    Eyeballing a taper is difficult - next time I'll do the maths (or a prototype).
    I need to find a better way of cutting feet to get a flat and level table... Or improve my technique with a hand saw!

    Next project (might be a desk) I think I'll go a little more complex and have a go at staked legs and sliding dovetails...

    Cheers,

    Danny

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Geelong, Victoria
    Posts
    282

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    It looks great in the photo. What is the timber?

    On wood movement, my neighbour has a hall table in silky oak I think. Purchased from a local gallery style wood shop at a hefty price. It sat for two years in a very stable spot in the house, then over a week it developed a huge bow at one end of the top. Luckily they like the shape, but I was surprised that it would remain stable for so long, and then move with no noticeable changes in the environmental conditions.

    Isn’t wood interesting!

    Bruce


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    29

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    I would ordinarily suggest to use dowels, as many as you can fit in, used with epoxy gap filling glue.
    Turning the leg tops to 65 mm is a sound alternative, when you have a lathe, which most folk don't have.
    If the table top is 45 mm or so I can't see this method failing, although rough handling which unduly stresses the glue joints should be avoided. This assumes you plan to mount the legs directly into the table top. I am unsure how you plan to stabilise your top to control shrinking & warping?

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    bruceward51, the top is blackheart sassafras and the legs are blackwood. It was a particularly nice bit of BHS and that's my last bit of it, will be looking out for more with similar colour!

    peterlonz, honestly my plan to handle warping is to let it warp and see how it goes. Partly that's a desire to keep it clean and simple, and partly a desire to watch it and learn - the benefit of a piece that's sitting in my own kitchen and only needs to keep me happy, not anyone else!

    Cheers,

    Danny

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