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Thread: Slab side table without apron
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8th October 2018, 08:04 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Slab side table without apron
Hi folks,
Planning to build myself a side table to go against an unoccupied kitchen wall, with a nice black heart sassy top and blackwood legs I have sitting around.
Thinking about going without an apron but I’ve never built a table without one - will it be structurally sound without one?
If so, any suggestions on how to join legs to the top (dowels, dominoes, threaded dowel, steel plate screwed to both top and legs?)?
Regards,
Danny
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8th October 2018, 08:36 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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We have two dining tables without aprons which I made about ten years ago. They have flat steel plates on top, screwed from above to the leg and from below to the table top. They have lasted quite well - the screws could do with a tighten up now but it will be their first one.
Aprons would have been better, but the design just didn’t allow.
A note of caution, we are reasonably careful people, so I treat them kindly knowing they are not the strongest tables in the world.
The plates are thick steel and visible which gives them an industrial aesthetic, which was intentional.Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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8th October 2018, 09:04 PM #3
Sliding dovetail, you won't see the infeed side if its against a wall
The person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
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9th October 2018, 07:15 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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9th October 2018, 07:19 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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9th October 2018, 01:29 PM #6
Hi Danny
how thick is your slab?
you could use staked legs -- think the leg to seat joint on a stool or Windsor chair. Christopher Schwarz has a whole book on staked furniture -- The Anarchists Design Book
sliding dovetails would also work provided your slab is not too thin. a 25 mm thick slab is perhaps too thin.
Then if you want to get creative, if the table incorporates a stretcher or two you can get away with very delicate legs attached to the top with blind mortices.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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9th October 2018, 02:31 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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That's an interesting idea! The top is about 45mm thick.
A related idea that's kicking around in my head... Considering making myself some 'tracks' - separate pieces of timber that would run front to back, mortised for the sliding dovetails, and attached to the tabletop with buttons.
This also gives me a security blanket, the thought of cutting into the (quite nice) slab was making me nervous! This way I can do the joinery and make sure I'm happy with it before assembling...
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9th October 2018, 03:22 PM #8
here you go ... staked legs and sliding dovetails
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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9th October 2018, 04:07 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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That's drop-dead gorgeous!
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10th October 2018, 05:24 AM #10
It's a Christopher Schwarz designed and built desk. I think the top is around 25 (nominal) mm thick
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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11th October 2018, 11:25 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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So I think I have a plan - I'm keen to improve my (extrrrreemely basic) skills with metal, so I think I'm going to use some 12mm thick aluminium (with thanks to the folks over at metalworkforums.com for suggesting aluminium and helping me find suppliers who can do it at reasonable cost) as a joining plate/decorative element, screwing it to both legs and table top. I know it won't be the strongest join in the world, but I have an idea for the design that I think will look pretty spiffy!
Will try to remember to post some pics when I have some progress.
Cheers,
Danny
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11th October 2018, 12:08 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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One minor caveat - only going to use that plan if I can find wood screws that won't corrode when sitting next to aluminium!
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11th October 2018, 01:39 PM #13
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11th October 2018, 02:58 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Will do - I know it's unconventional, and I know the conventional way to do things is often that way for a damn good reason, so I'm trying to think it through carefully!
Thanks,
Danny
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13th October 2018, 05:27 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Change my mind again once I got into the workshop today!
Going to do this the simple way - tapered the top and legs on the tablesaw and thicknesser, and I've turned tenons on the legs to match my biggest forstner bit. Stuffed up and knocked off the corner on one leg so had to taper the top of the legs on the lathe as well... Tomorrow I'll drill the round mortises through the top and give it all a test fit up before all the sanding begins.
WIP pics:
Considering popping some round plugs into the center of the tenons, more to make it fancier than for strength (I am hoping this never gets subjected to more force than a glued ~63mm diameter tenon through ~45mm of slab can handle!).
Cheers,
Danny
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