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  1. #1
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    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    Default Slab side table without apron

    Hi folks,

    Planning to build myself a side table to go against an unoccupied kitchen wall, with a nice black heart sassy top and blackwood legs I have sitting around.

    Thinking about going without an apron but I’ve never built a table without one - will it be structurally sound without one?

    If so, any suggestions on how to join legs to the top (dowels, dominoes, threaded dowel, steel plate screwed to both top and legs?)?

    Regards,

    Danny

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    We have two dining tables without aprons which I made about ten years ago. They have flat steel plates on top, screwed from above to the leg and from below to the table top. They have lasted quite well - the screws could do with a tighten up now but it will be their first one.

    Aprons would have been better, but the design just didn’t allow.

    A note of caution, we are reasonably careful people, so I treat them kindly knowing they are not the strongest tables in the world.

    The plates are thick steel and visible which gives them an industrial aesthetic, which was intentional.
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    Default

    Sliding dovetail, you won't see the infeed side if its against a wall
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  5. #4
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    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arron View Post
    We have two dining tables without aprons which I made about ten years ago. They have flat steel plates on top, screwed from above to the leg and from below to the table top. They have lasted quite well - the screws could do with a tighten up now but it will be their first one.

    Aprons would have been better, but the design just didn’t allow.

    A note of caution, we are reasonably careful people, so I treat them kindly knowing they are not the strongest tables in the world.

    The plates are thick steel and visible which gives them an industrial aesthetic, which was intentional.
    I like that! Going to see how much some thickish steel or brass plates will cost me, that option is definitely going onto my list.

  6. #5
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    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    Sliding dovetail, you won't see the infeed side if its against a wall
    That's a good idea too! Will have to think about if I could make it work with my very limited skills though...

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post
    Planning to build myself a side table to go against an unoccupied kitchen wall, with a nice black heart sassy top and blackwood legs I have sitting around.

    Thinking about going without an apron but I’ve never built a table without one - will it be structurally sound without one?

    If so, any suggestions on how to join legs to the top (dowels, dominoes, threaded dowel, steel plate screwed to both top and legs?)?

    Regards,

    Danny
    Hi Danny

    how thick is your slab?

    you could use staked legs -- think the leg to seat joint on a stool or Windsor chair. Christopher Schwarz has a whole book on staked furniture -- The Anarchists Design Book

    sliding dovetails would also work provided your slab is not too thin. a 25 mm thick slab is perhaps too thin.

    Then if you want to get creative, if the table incorporates a stretcher or two you can get away with very delicate legs attached to the top with blind mortices.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #7
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    Jun 2003
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    That's an interesting idea! The top is about 45mm thick.

    A related idea that's kicking around in my head... Considering making myself some 'tracks' - separate pieces of timber that would run front to back, mortised for the sliding dovetails, and attached to the tabletop with buttons.

    This also gives me a security blanket, the thought of cutting into the (quite nice) slab was making me nervous! This way I can do the joinery and make sure I'm happy with it before assembling...

  9. #8
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    Feb 2003
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    here you go ... staked legs and sliding dovetails

    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #9
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    Default

    That's drop-dead gorgeous!

  11. #10
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    It's a Christopher Schwarz designed and built desk. I think the top is around 25 (nominal) mm thick
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #11
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    So I think I have a plan - I'm keen to improve my (extrrrreemely basic) skills with metal, so I think I'm going to use some 12mm thick aluminium (with thanks to the folks over at metalworkforums.com for suggesting aluminium and helping me find suppliers who can do it at reasonable cost) as a joining plate/decorative element, screwing it to both legs and table top. I know it won't be the strongest join in the world, but I have an idea for the design that I think will look pretty spiffy!

    Will try to remember to post some pics when I have some progress.

    Cheers,

    Danny

  13. #12
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    One minor caveat - only going to use that plan if I can find wood screws that won't corrode when sitting next to aluminium!

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post
    So I think I have a plan - I'm keen to improve my (extrrrreemely basic) skills with metal, so I think I'm going to use some 12mm thick aluminium as a joining plate/decorative element, screwing it to both legs and table top. I know it won't be the strongest join in the world, but I have an idea for the design that I think will look pretty spiffy!
    Danny, it's your design but you may care to consider stainless steel over aluminium and you may care to test the design before you commit to securing 4 legs that way
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  15. #14
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    Will do - I know it's unconventional, and I know the conventional way to do things is often that way for a damn good reason, so I'm trying to think it through carefully!

    Thanks,

    Danny

  16. #15
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    Change my mind again once I got into the workshop today!

    Going to do this the simple way - tapered the top and legs on the tablesaw and thicknesser, and I've turned tenons on the legs to match my biggest forstner bit. Stuffed up and knocked off the corner on one leg so had to taper the top of the legs on the lathe as well... Tomorrow I'll drill the round mortises through the top and give it all a test fit up before all the sanding begins.

    WIP pics:







    Considering popping some round plugs into the center of the tenons, more to make it fancier than for strength (I am hoping this never gets subjected to more force than a glued ~63mm diameter tenon through ~45mm of slab can handle!).

    Cheers,

    Danny

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