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Thread: Sofa Table
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10th July 2017, 12:47 AM #31
I'll give you a Like anyway!
You are right and I am wrong. No. we are both right.
The strips run the correct direction. However they should not run into the corners. They should be a little short of the width. Movement will take place on the width.
Does that seem right?
And Sheoak is a good idea.
Thanks.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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10th July 2017, 12:52 AM #32
Hi Chris
The feet do sit flat on the floor. What you are seeing in the picture is the outside face of the legs curves. In the picture it makes it look as thought it is pointy, and the shiny floor makes it look as if at an angle.
The drawer is a wonderful fit. It glides in and out. I'm sure it will be OK. Perth is pretty dry in summer, and since I have built this in winter, it can only be a tad looser in the dry months.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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13th July 2017, 09:46 PM #33
Hi Derek
what I find intriguing in this build is that the drawer is as much a statement as is the table.
It's almost as if the drawer sides are demanding to be on permanent (or at lest semi-permanent) display. which is kind of odd given you have incorporated a hidden component.
I can't tell from the photo, and you may have mentioned above, but to my eye, that very shallow drawer wouldlook better with a very slight rounding of the upper edges.
posted from YVR at 3:45 local whilst waiting to board AC33 which tonight is running 5 hours lateregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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13th July 2017, 10:26 PM #34
Hi Ian
I agree with the rounding. Actually, I wished I had thought of this early, but I could have bevelled the top and bottom inside faces.
The problem is this, the handgrip to open the drawer on the underside ..
So I am thinking of this: bevel or round the upper inside edge, and bevel/curve the corners of the lower inside edge. Thoughts?
Yes, attention is given to the drawer since it is "hidden" insofar as it is not seen. But (if we keep it - if Lynndy likes it - she actually prefers the original table), the drawer will get used, probably for keys. It is one of those "show off" features for visitors.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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15th July 2017, 08:12 AM #35
Hi Derek
I think that rounding the top edge will work better than beveling.
I say this because the grain / ray fleck is so prominent in the sheoak, that to my eye a curved transition gives a more sinuous transition over the top of the drawer sides.
Your dilemma with the drawer pull.
given the amount of overlay you have, that drawer doesn't need more than the hint of the preferred place for your fingers on the inside bottom edge of the front. If you don't have the material or inclination to re-build the front, perhaps fill the existing finger slot (after all it will be out of sight to all but house hold pet dogs and cats) and then carve (or cut out) a curved finger rebate about 3/4 the length of the current version with a radius of about 1/2". Although I say "radius" I think a non-circular (i.e. elliptical) profile will have a better tactile feel.
posted from back in Sydneyregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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6th August 2017, 12:47 AM #36
Congratulations to Derek. His sofa table won 1st prize at the Perth Woodworking show. I can say that the photos do not do justice to such a great piece of fine furniture. Well done.
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6th August 2017, 10:42 AM #37
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