Sofa Table

**derekcohen** · 10th July 2017, 12:47 AM

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

... I have a query about one particular point; in the 20th picture of post 28 you show how you have added "cross pieces at the inside ends of the base. These were to ensure that the to does not move. They are cross grain to ensure what little movement runs to the inside …" By making them cross grain you will of course ensure that any timber movement of the top and the cross pieces will be in the same direction, but as they are of two different timbers there is the potential for them to have significantly differing rates of expansion and contraction. I'm trying to draw a parallel here with the action of a bimetallic strip used in simple thermostats; the two differing coefficients of expansion force the strip to physically bend in response to a change in temperature. Did you consider this possibility when deciding this method? I'm not suggesting that the small strips would force the top to warp; but could they could split in contraction or possibly even snap the screws in expansion?

It just stood out to me in the photo; had this part been designed by me I likely would have either just screwed four smaller blocks (one in each corner) or a fitted a single long grain strip but with one screw hole slightly slotted. If I had thought to make it cross grain as you have done I would have tried to make it from the same plank of Sheoak as the top; just the thought of mixing two differing species in this way would set little alarm bells ringing and I would then be pouring over timber species data sheets to determine if any amount of stress would be there.

But that's the artificer in me; I can tell you the square root of a jam jar but would struggle to open it. Similarly I could calculate the ideal placement of every joint and fixture you have used but to come up with such a visually pleasing design in the first place is somewhat beyond my abilities!

ps; in reference to your latest thread; I shan't be offended by any lack of "Like"!

I'll give you a Like anyway!

You are right and I am wrong. No. we are both right.

The strips run the correct direction. However they should not run into the corners. They should be a little short of the width. Movement will take place on the width.

Does that seem right?

And Sheoak is a good idea.

Thanks.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**derekcohen** · 10th July 2017, 12:52 AM

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Derek, why don't the feet sit flat on the floor? Did you make the drawer a rattling good fit? it will be interesting to see if it opens and closes without sticking in a few years time. I would have gone with two as previously mentioned but then I could never build it anyway.

Hi Chris

The feet do sit flat on the floor. What you are seeing in the picture is the outside face of the legs curves. In the picture it makes it look as thought it is pointy, and the shiny floor makes it look as if at an angle.

The drawer is a wonderful fit. It glides in and out. I'm sure it will be OK. Perth is pretty dry in summer, and since I have built this in winter, it can only be a tad looser in the dry months.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**ian** · 13th July 2017, 09:46 PM

Hi Derek

what I find intriguing in this build is that the drawer is as much a statement as is the table.
It's almost as if the drawer sides are demanding to be on permanent (or at lest semi-permanent) display. which is kind of odd given you have incorporated a hidden component.
I can't tell from the photo, and you may have mentioned above, but to my eye, that very shallow drawer wouldlook better with a very slight rounding of the upper edges.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Finally!!!! All is completed. The base has been finished in two coats of dewaxed white shellac (Ubeaut), and then received three coats of General Finishes water-based poly, which was hand rubbed.
The top has been finished in Livos Universal Wood Oil. This is a green oil made largely from cold pressed flax seeds. It adds a slight amber sheen to the wood.

From the front …

The drawer slides out this far …

posted from YVR at 3:45 local whilst waiting to board AC33 which tonight is running 5 hours late

**derekcohen** · 13th July 2017, 10:26 PM

Hi Ian

I agree with the rounding. Actually, I wished I had thought of this early, but I could have bevelled the top and bottom inside faces.

The problem is this, the handgrip to open the drawer on the underside ..

So I am thinking of this: bevel or round the upper inside edge, and bevel/curve the corners of the lower inside edge. Thoughts?

Yes, attention is given to the drawer since it is "hidden" insofar as it is not seen. But (if we keep it - if Lynndy likes it - she actually prefers the original table), the drawer will get used, probably for keys. It is one of those "show off" features for visitors.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**ian** · 15th July 2017, 08:12 AM

Hi Derek

I think that rounding the top edge will work better than beveling.
I say this because the grain / ray fleck is so prominent in the sheoak, that to my eye a curved transition gives a more sinuous transition over the top of the drawer sides.

Your dilemma with the drawer pull.
given the amount of overlay you have, that drawer doesn't need more than the hint of the preferred place for your fingers on the inside bottom edge of the front. If you don't have the material or inclination to re-build the front, perhaps fill the existing finger slot (after all it will be out of sight to all but house hold pet dogs and cats) and then carve (or cut out) a curved finger rebate about 3/4 the length of the current version with a radius of about 1/2". Although I say "radius" I think a non-circular (i.e. elliptical) profile will have a better tactile feel.

posted from back in Sydney

**lesmeyer** · 6th August 2017, 12:47 AM

Congratulations to Derek. His sofa table won 1st prize at the Perth Woodworking show. I can say that the photos do not do justice to such a great piece of fine furniture. Well done.

**ian** · 6th August 2017, 10:42 AM

Originally Posted by lesmeyer

Congratulations to Derek. His sofa table won 1st prize at the Perth Woodworking show. I can say that the photos do not do justice to such a great piece of fine furniture. Well done.

congratulations Derek.

after the past few wood shows, I can only add -- about bloody time !!

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