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Thread: Surprise!
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11th December 2018, 08:19 AM #31
Ian
Hand held 9 1/4 circular saw. Cut to 65mm deep (in two passes if you wish, but may not be necessary in balsa wood ) from one side. Flip (the timber, not you) and cut the same depth from the other side. Hopefully you have not lost the fence that came with the saw originally.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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11th December 2018 08:19 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th December 2018, 09:27 AM #32
Paul, unfortunately, something happened to my 9 1/4" saw, it's only a 5". I did own a biggie, when I lived in Canada and was more into burning electrons at any opportunity, but these days I have very little need of such things & the one time I've needed a hand-held saw, the little one was adequate & paid for itself on that job. I do have its fence, but that's of little or no value in this context, either, because the slabs are the cores from the log, so there are only"natural" edges.
Nevertheless, it's definitely on the list of possible weaponry - I can clamp a straight edge on the surface for guidance, and the kerf it makes is a good match for my 3-5 tpi ripsaw, so I reckon I'll be able to reduce the potential RSI by a goodly margin with my little toy.
"Flip the timber" ?!! Oh yeah, no probs, bro. This is the smaller of the two: slab 1.jpg
The P. radiata you get from Bunnies can be pretty flimsy stuff, cut from the youngish plantation tres, but the density is given as about 600Kg/cubic M. for trees 30-40 years old, and the tree this stuff came from was probably 60 or more years old. I haven't weighed a sample, but I'd be willing to bet the wood I have is well & truly up there - it isn't quite in the Balsa class....
My procrastination is only partly due to the breaking-down job, The other part is due to indecision on the part of the recipients. They weren't quite sure what they wanted, & I made the mistake of suggesting they have a squizz at some refectory-type table designs on the interweb. Now they've narrowed it down to about 6 tables they like (all quite different!) but I'd prefer a pretty solid decision before I start cutting (& let's hope there are no requests for a change after I do!)...
Cheers,IW
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11th December 2018, 10:11 AM #33GOLD MEMBER
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Another option that is due for release in 2019 in the US.
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11th December 2018, 10:22 AM #34
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11th December 2018, 10:26 AM #35
Ian
How quickly are you looking at cutting the slab? For example I could call in with my saw, but at this stage I don't know when I am travelling to Brisbane next, I also have a guide rail for use with a chain saw (26" bar) although from your comments the kerf (10mm?) may be an issue.
I appreciate this may be of some help to you but stuff all help for Alan.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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11th December 2018, 10:30 AM #36GOLD MEMBER
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But in the usual US advertising speel the saw puts out more power than it uses. (15A motor @120V = 2.4HP)
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11th December 2018, 11:05 AM #37
Paul, thanks for the offer, but the cutting-up shouldn't be as big an issue as I seem to have implied. There'll be a modicum of hand-sawing and a good deal of power-sawing, if all goes to plan A. Much depends on what the youngsters decide they want as the undercarriage, which is what these chunks are destined to be. Once I have a firm decision & know just what is wanted, the sawdust will fly one way or another.
I have two loverly baulks of Hoop for the top - single pieces 600 wide (well, 595 to be precise) and 40 thick. They were bench tops in one of the labs at the old vet school that we rescued from the skip during a reno, and while they need virtualy no sawing other than to neaten the ends left (very) ragged from the demolishers' sabre saws, they are going to need a fair bit of planing to clean off (most of) the scars of their former occupation. Much too wide for my 300mm 'lectric jobbie, so it's out with the "Armstrong" variety for these. You can come & do an hour or two of pushing the #7, sometime, if you like.....
I have a slabbing rail for the chainsaw, too - it's how I got to this stage, but it isn't suitable for the next step - I don't need any more screw-holes to work around. There are a couple in the edges where the rail was attached for milling, but I can avoid these easily enough (I think!).
Cheers,IW
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11th December 2018, 11:25 PM #38GOLD MEMBER
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11th December 2018, 11:42 PM #39
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12th December 2018, 03:26 AM #40
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12th December 2018, 03:38 AM #41
Mafell do two versions, one cuts to 260 mm https://produkte.mafell.de/en/carpen...sx-ec?c=312977 , the other to 400 https://produkte.mafell.de/en/carpen...in-ec?c=312977
Both tilt to 60 degrees.
the smaller saw requires a 15A circuit, the larger one 30A -- it has two 3000W motors.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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12th December 2018, 03:45 AM #42
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12th December 2018, 09:57 AM #43
While looking at the Mafell, I also came across this one which seems to have the added benefit of using a chainsaw that is available in Oz?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PzqTkp...fauxfullscreena rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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12th December 2018, 10:08 AM #44
Looks like it cuts on the top of the bar?
Interesting... I wonder why they designed it that way?
- Andy Mc
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12th December 2018, 11:15 AM #45
Yes that is a bit strange - it will pull all the chips into the saw rather than spitting them out the front. I can only think that it is to keep the job pulled against the cutting chain - the other way around (using the bottom of the bar) would tend to push the saw away from the job meaning you'd need to apply some down pressure to the rig.
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