Thread: First timer

I'm thinking i will go with some Tas Oak which is 110 wide and then glue up the top and butt joint the sides on and add some small metal brackets underneath out of sight for added strength. Would this be suitable for a basic desk?

Yes, you will need some type of bracing as the design as it is will be very vulnerable to racking (important concept, google it if unsure).

The join you are calling a 'butt joint' will be excessively weak once the racking force is applied.

Gluing up 110 wide Tassie oak boards to make a single big flat board will work well and you shouldn't have much problem with them if your jointing and clamping techniques are good. I have done a lot of furniture from Tas oak that way and don't remember any problems. However the option of using the jarrah pickets is a good one. I used 65 x 19 pickets to make a living room suite - worked well. Each picket ended up 55 mm wide after the rounded edges were cut off. It took a lot of pickets to make a wide board but that was part of the charm - lots of variation in hue and grain. If I had to choose between the two then the jarrah pickets is a clear winner - as tassie oak is an abjectly boring timber.

It's a shame Bunnings in NSW no longer sell the jarrah pickets. What a great source of cheap timber they were.

My only other comment is that you will be using a lot of expensive timber to make a design which really doesn't necessitate it. no offence intended, but this type of design is usually accomplished with veneer-covered particleboard, with all the cost and environmental benefits that brings.

Hi
A nice crisp design. ....... But needs some bracing if it is to be functional

Butt joints for attaching the solid wood top to the vertical panels will not be strong and will fail as the timber contracts and expands throughout the seasons

It is usual practice to build a frame and place the side panels in/on them
Without a frame you will need to consider bracing by having a back panel of say 18mm ply and braces for the sides

you don't say what thickness of timber that you plan to use

a 1800 top without a front edge and under bracing will need better than 18/19 mm stock ..... I'd use at least 40mm

The simple 4 panel design is appealing but will need really thick timber with complex joinery and few would attempt it

Looking for advice? Don't do it as per the sketch.

If you let known you tools ... Then it is easier to provide comments on what might be appropriate

for example to do a 1800 glue up will take quite a few clamps

I would recommend using at least 25mm tas oak for a frame and use quality ply for the sides and back
a solid wood top with supports under and a front cap would work for me

regards

Rob

Originally Posted by Tahlee

Hi
A nice crisp design. ....... But needs some bracing if it is to be functional

Butt joints for attaching the solid wood top to the vertical panels will not be strong and will fail as the timber contracts and expands throughout the seasons

It is usual practice to build a frame and place the side panels in/on them
Without a frame you will need to consider bracing by having a back panel of say 18mm ply and braces for the sides

you don't say what thickness of timber that you plan to use

a 1800 top without a front edge and under bracing will need better than 18/19 mm stock ..... I'd use at least 40mm

The simple 4 panel design is appealing but will need really thick timber with complex joinery and few would attempt it

Looking for advice? Don't do it as per the sketch.

If you let known you tools ... Then it is easier to provide comments on what might be appropriate

for example to do a 1800 glue up will take quite a few clamps

I would recommend using at least 25mm tas oak for a frame and use quality ply for the sides and back
a solid wood top with supports under and a front cap would work for me

regards

Rob

Thanks for the replies, they've given me some points to consider. As for price, i know it may end up being more expensive than a particleboard desk, but i am wanting to build it as an introduction into woodworking.

When you say build a frame, do you mean building something like this as a means to support the top? I found this during a search of the forums, so it is not my work, but is this the thing i need to do? Using something like 25mm tas oak to support the top. Then i attach the top and sides to this framework?

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...2&d=1420270255

Again, thanks for taking the time to help a beginner out!

Welcome to the forum.

Originally Posted by pearcie45

Hey,

I am a first time poster and looking at getting into some woodworking. I am going to start off by building a desk out of 185 x 19mm Tas Oak as for a first project it will be dressed all round and means I can focus on the actual building for this project. I have attached a rough drawing of what I wish to build. After doing a lot of reading and researching I still have a few questions!

The top and sides will be made from 3 boards glued together to form the width I am after. Would simply butt joining and gluing the top onto the sides be enough or should I use another type of joint? I have no experience with anything other than a butt joint but would be willing to try it if it were something a beginner could do?

Also, does my desk need some sort of supporting timber running from one side to the other to stop any sort of flex in the side panels?

Any other ideas/recommendations would be welcome too!

Oh and sorry about the orientation of the photo. For some reason it wont display how it is when viewed on my computer?

Edit: Another question; is there any reason I could not use other DAR timbers which are smaller in width but join more of them together? For example, I have been scouting around and have found other hardwoods such as Jarrah pickets which are 65mm x 19mm. Can you use more of them joined together to get the width or is it better to use wider lengths? I hope that makes sense!

These may be silly questions I'm not sure. I guess the best way to learn is to ask tho!
Thanks
IMG_1256.jpg

Hi Pearcie

I'd describe your design as "Ikea flatpak".
Unfortunately, that type of design doesn't really lend itself to construction in anything other than board material -- ply, MDF, Chipboard, veneered particle board, etc.

I hope you don't mind but I've attached a sketch of some modifications I'd suggest that will make your desk a little more sturdy if constructed from solid timber.


Ideally, I'd like to suggest you build the desk using a traditional apron frame, but if you like "Ikea flatpak" what I've suggested will get you started.


I'm not sure if you have indicated what tools you have available to you, but one word of caution -- I would not expect to be able to glue together 19mm thick DAR boards and finish with a 19mm thick flat panel. My expectation would be that joining 4 or 5 DAR boards edge to edge would finish around 15mm thick after you removed the small warping cupping and twisting I expect all home center wood will have.

Ian has nailed it (so to speak)
Just one further note ... when you attach the top be sure to use the method that enables the top to grow and shrink with the weather. Table buttons .. see for example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ny53AyB1a6g

Regards

Rob

I am glad i posted up here before rushing into it, i've managed to learn quite a bit!

Thanks Ian and Tahlee. I am going to go with an apron frame and then try my hand at attaching the top with table buttons.

I am leaning towards maybe using some dressed pine for this as a way to save money but still be able to build it from scratch using some various methods like gluing up the timber and attaching it using table buttons. I understand this may not look the greatest when finished? but for a first project I think it will be good. It also won't be so bad if i make any mistakes as the pine is considerably cheaper than the tas oak.

I hope you have great enjoyment with your project
it's all about design, execution AND finish
I'd suggest you look at oils or wipe on poly rather than using a paint brush on this project
good luck
Rob

Originally Posted by pearcie45

I am leaning towards maybe using some dressed pine for this as a way to save money but still be able to build it from scratch using some various methods like gluing up the timber and attaching it using table buttons. I understand this may not look the greatest when finished? but for a first project I think it will be good. It also won't be so bad if i make any mistakes as the pine is considerably cheaper than the tas oak.

You haven't said what tools you currently have, nor which you intend to purchase for the project. Also we don't kniow if your preference is power or hand tools.
The following can be built from stuff the big box stores generally carry -- DAR pine, square sections, 19 or 26 mm thick pre-sanded wood panels which are typically 1800 x 600 (or thereabouts) and 6 mm and 3 mm ply. For your first project I suggest you try and avoid gluing boards togther to make a panel.


You will need some method for
cutting the ply to size -- a circular saw and a straight edge guide helps here.
cutting straight bits of wood to length -- with a bit of practice, doing this with a backsaw should be more accurate than using a low cost powered miter saw.
cutting mortice and tenon joints
cutting rebates -- a smallish router can do this, though you may need to take 2 passes. And a mid-sized router may be more versatile in the medium term.

best wishes and post some progress pics

Welcome Pearcie45, I to am an ameture. I found this forum a couple of weeks ago, and I have been learning alot from reading these posts that come from experienced people. I have screwed up alot of projects due to lack of know how. I have been learning how complicated It can be, or maybe my lack of experience is making it that way. Jump on in and get your feet wet, and maybe one day we'll be as good as some on this site.