Thread: Best way to treat a work bench surface?

Well, nothing will really 'toughen' the surface up, so an oil finish would be the easiest to maintain. Other than that, how about a sacrificial surface of MDF or masonite? Just flip it over when it gets too dinged up, and recycle it for templates when both sides are past their best.

Master Splinter hit the nail on the head so to speak with masonite or MDF,I would give them a couple of coats of poly bsfore use

When I was working (kitchen cupboard manufacturing) we had 2 low benches made to knock up cupboards. They were made with pyneboard tops and as protection we screwed another layer of 16mm pyneboard on top. Every Christmas we would turn over the top sheet and get 12 months out of that side. Worked a treat.
The benches were not supposed to be routered on unless a sacrificial board was put underneath.
Masonite would be too dark for a top even though it would wear well. MDF of pyneboard would be my choice (16mm thick)

Just give it a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil.

Thanks all.
I spent hours getting that top perfect - even filled all the holes and nicks with epoxy - so I would hate to cover it up. (A bit silly, I admit.)
I'll have a go at the 'boiled linseed oil'. Is all linseed oil boiled, or do I look for something that specifically says it is boiled?
About 10 years ago I had a big, old timber boat. I seem to recall there was a 2 part product available that was for making timber more dense, or something like that. Maybe I imagined it. Having owned a big, old timber boat, though, I know better than to go looking for something in a boat stuff retailer - everything there is breathtakingly expensive.

You can buy raw linseed oil but it never drys or at least takes a very long time.
It will say Boiled on the bottle. You can get pale BLO as well which will not darken the timber as much

Great. Thanks. I'll have a look at Bunnings this week.

Originally Posted by scottbr

Great. Thanks. I'll have a look at Bunnings this week.

most hardware stores will stock BLO.

In response to the top being too soft. I have been physically looking at old benches and it seems most used to be made of oregon. That is a super soft timber in my book. I don't know if this was because of availability, cost, or choice for a specific perceived benefit.

Another option is to give the bench top (or the sacrificial chipboard/MDF) a couple of coats of sanding sealer and then give it a light sand to get it smooth. makes for a reasonably slippery, clean surface that is easier to keep clean. Also did this to the MDF inserts on my table saw.

Occasionally, I sand it off with an orbital sander. Every now and again when I find myself with half a gun of sealer left over I'll give the tops a solid sanding and reapply the sealer.

Regarding the softness of the bench top, maple is a common timber choice for bench tops. There are harder and softer varieties but nothing to compare with most Aussie hardwoods but it doesn't have to double as an anvil. You're less likely to ding up your work piece if you drop it and it will be more forgiving when you cock something up and bang your head on it.

Besides anything else it looks great.

I can not say much on the timber but my vote will also go the boiled linseed oil.

How to treat a bench top.... roughly, with disdain at times! Get things built on it!

Whatever it looks like, enjoy it

Cheers

Originally Posted by scottbr

Thanks all.
I spent hours getting that top perfect - even filled all the holes and nicks with epoxy - so I would hate to cover it up. (A bit silly, I admit.)
I'll have a go at the 'boiled linseed oil'. Is all linseed oil boiled, or do I look for something that specifically says it is boiled?

Can I suggest you stop worrying too much.

Use your bench. try to remember to use a sacrificial board when you do any routing or drilling
Every 6 months or so check that the top is still flat, if it's not, plane a little bit off to bring it back to flat

Enjoy making things on your bench