Thread: Veneering Question

Absolutely, definitely, positively do both sides; if you don't it will warp. I guarantee it.

Hi John

are you dovetailing those drawers -- if yes use solid timber, if not you can use MDF

traditionally only the front is veneered -- with MDF I'd advise the back also

For solid timber I'd use something other than NG Rosewood -- something less expensive


you will need to protect the edge of the veneer -- cock beading is the traditional way.

It is not always necessary to do both sides, similar timbers, non water based glue, you should be right.
These drawers and boxes are all only veneered on one side, boxes are 9mm thick and draw fronts 18mm.
veneer pieces.JPGcloseup Crows Ash.JPGcloseup BH Sassafrass.JPG
Crows Ash, BH Sass, and Black Wattle, substrates are a mixed bag, Vic Ash, Silver Wattle, Hoop Pine.



Pete

Thanks gents,

Picked up a small pack of about 0.3 cubes of rosewood for about $1,800 per cube. It was cheap because the red stuff had been pulled out of it and because some of the boards were only 120 mm wide, but I thought it was an inexpensive way of getting some nice stable timber. The 120 mm boards are ideal for things like drawer fronts.

If the drawer fronts were MDF, I'd veneer both sides. But they will be rosewood, and both timbers being used have similar movement characteristics, so I'll veneer one side and see how we go in the coming years.

Veneered the sides and top yesterday. The Titebond PU glue is great for veneering because it gives an open time of 30 minutes. That's plenty to get both sides of two or three components glued up, wrapped in greaseproof paper and into the vacuum press. The other advantage is that it needs only an hour or two in the press. PVA glue should be left in the press overnight.

Again, thanks!

John

I reckon in this case you can get away with just one side. Because the size of drawer front is small, and it will be held together by the sides and bottom so it cannot twist.