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Thread: WIP my first bed.
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8th October 2017, 11:17 AM #16
old, been through a freeze thaw cycle, in other swords no longer effective
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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8th October 2017 11:17 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th October 2017, 11:43 AM #17GOLD MEMBER
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8th October 2017, 08:22 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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I decided I wanted a little bit of a floating bed style so I designed the 2 frames to screw down onto a platform. I felt that this would also create a half torsion box effect thus making the base very strong with some rigidity against wracking.
Originally I thought I would use a sheet of chipboard flooring. But the sheet needs to support almost the entire weight on it's edges and resist the moment force between that and the supporting frame. I Leant that these days no one uses chipboard flooring only particle board flooring and also that this must be supported on all edges. The exact opposite of what I need.
Then I learnt that plywood is far stronger and thus worth the cost. So off I went to my local sheet goods supplier.
I explained to the guy that I didn't really know if 18mm ply would be strong enough in the long term. Perhaps I need 25mm or even 33mm ply.
The guy explained that they had a stock of 17mm F17 hardwood ply which was mid price but far stronger than the other options. I have no idea what F17 really means but apparently it is technospeak for strong as f@#k.
So I bought two sheets. I also paid them $5 to cut it to size for me.
So I laid that out on my assembly table upside down and I made a frame out of 31mm x 66mm. I pocket hole screwed that frame together. Then I glued and tacked and screwed the frame to the hardwood plywood.
My assembly table is on a very un flat drive way so it's impossible for me to get this platform or the frames flat but I muddle through. I figure the different frames will straighten each other out when they are screwed together.
I added lots a felt pads as feet to protect the wooden floor.
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8th October 2017, 08:42 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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I would have liked to polyurethane this part but there simply isn't enough time. I don't even have time to seal the edges. They won't be visible. I just thought some polyurethane would make it last longer. Probably it doesn't matter.
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8th October 2017, 08:49 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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Dear little wife helped me carry this platform inside. She had to give me a stern warning that I must remember she is not a man and I can't expect her to carry my heavy projects. Fortunately we got it into the room without injuring the little lady.
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8th October 2017, 09:12 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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The felt pads make it quite easy to move even a heavy bed. Hopefully not too easy to move during 'special cuddles' time.
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9th October 2017, 07:17 AM #22Member
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Be great to see the finished product, hope it worked out for you.
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9th October 2017, 03:27 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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I bought some sheets of melamine to make the drawers. I tried to cut one of these on the Triton workcentre. What a disaster!
I really need a table saw and ideally a track saw.
I'll have to skip the drawers for the short term. No time.
I may as well fit the runners now though.
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9th October 2017, 04:33 PM #24Novice
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I thought Triton Workcentre is a table saw? I have an 80 tooth saw on my Triton that I use for cutting melamine, works fine. The saw is $58 from Bunnings but can also be used for cutting aluminium.
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9th October 2017, 05:18 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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I cut this entire melamine robe on the triton, what issues are you having with it?
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10th October 2017, 01:07 AM #26
or perhaps, just a more suitable saw blade and/or better technique? If you have a ripping blade or a general purpose blade in the Triton, then chipping of the melamine would be expected.
Among the work arounds is cutting oversize and them trim with a router, pre-scoring, and painters tape along the cut line.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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10th October 2017, 07:54 AM #27GOLD MEMBER
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The problem is that the cuts are not square. I should take the circular saw out of the work center and do rough cuts then put it back in the workcentre, carefully spend a fair bit of time re aligning the saw and then cut to size. Perhaps then it would work if I was very careful. I just don't have the time now.
Great to know someone else has done it so it's possible.
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15th October 2017, 10:15 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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So plan B. False drawer fronts for now.
I forgot to mention that when I made the frames I put some pocket holes in the wrong place on the first set of small cross braces so I had to redo these. Thus I had some scraps the right thickness. A shave off these with the SCMS made them the right height. Backed with sone MDF scrap they can lock a false front in place until I eventually make the drawers.
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15th October 2017, 10:20 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
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I have never done upholstery before but I'm one of these people who won't die wondering.
One 1800 x 600 MDF sheet cut in 6 creates the front. Then contact adhesive to glue on foam. Then some fleece as cheap batting. Then the material with a pneumatic stapler. Can't recommend a pneumatic stapler highly enough for this task.
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15th October 2017, 10:20 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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Scrap used as spacing to make it all even.
2 screws hopefully will hold the fronts in place for a few months. Quite a few months if I return to my usual glacial pace after this rushing around.
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