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Thread: WIP Shaker Side Stand
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5th March 2018, 08:13 PM #16
A Milk paint if you wanted to be traditional I think . Its amazing stuff .
An acrylic if you want to be quick and easy .
They are like chalk and cheese as far as paints go which is why new paints don't make things look like the old stuff.
What colour would you say that is , it looks like a black but it seems to be over red base coat which is just visible ?
Rob
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5th March 2018, 08:39 PM #17
Hi Rob,
On that pic I'd say it has a slight green undertone to my eyes. I think in the colorbond range it would be close to Monument, maybe Ironstone.
I don't think a specific colour match is needed, any near black would be OK. Black black is probably out.
I haven't been down the Milk paint path. I know Porters supply it at $$ prices. Can it actually be made at home like whitewash originally was?
Cheers,Franklin
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5th March 2018, 09:04 PM #18
Yes it can . For such a small job though it may be cheaper buying a small tin of mixed acrylic . By the time you gather ingredients at the sizes or weights you have to buy some these things in ,you may have enough to do the side of your workshop wall
You need Milk, and I use Hydrated lime , not the most recommended but it works , then you need the oxide powders like Bunnings sell to colour concrete you could also throw in some glue , white PVA or Hide glue . Glue helps . And you could throw in some Acrylic which would be a good way of adding white if you need it . Instead of looking for titanium white powder. There are traditional recipes and colours . See this for colours
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/4sanctua...p2047675.l2562
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5th March 2018, 09:17 PM #19
This is one of the Milk painted cabinets I did a few years ago with Hydrated Lime , milk , some glue and oxide colours and possibly paint tints I think which helped with the yellow. It sets and sands like a coloured plaster. sands to a very smooth finish and can then be sealed with things like shellac or oil finishes then wax.
IMG_5350.JPGIMG_5351.JPGIMG_5353.JPGIMG_5369.JPG
Rob
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5th March 2018, 09:32 PM #20
I've got stuff leftover from renos here, including black tint for mortar, hydrated lime, bondcrete etc. Might have to give it a try. I'm not sure of the differences but I thought it might have to use slaked lime not hydrated. I remember my father making whitewash once and it was an exciting reaction as I remember with the slaked lime component going off.
Franklin
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5th March 2018, 09:40 PM #21
Yeah its supposed to be slaked lime , Try that if you can get it . Where can it be found , do you have to make it ?
I tried getting that but found it difficult and came home with Hydrated . I also did the milk and vinegar to get the curds and used that . With what I mixed up I got a good hard plaster like finish and keep it ready for the next time I want it .
edit
Im just looking it up. what Id like to know is, rather than heat lime stone to make slaked lime,what can be bought to create it . Even if it still needs heating up . Any thing from a garden supply in bags that suits ? or do you have to get actual Lime stone ?
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6th March 2018, 11:23 AM #22
Fuzz, I quite like the look of tables that was fashionable a while back, where the tops were clear-finished or unfinished & the legs/skirts painted. Old shaker paints were usually milk paints. I've used a couple of different proprietary milk paints - they come as a powder & you 'just add water'. I was happy enough with the look, the colour was what we wanted, and it had the smooth, flat look characteristic of old milk paint: high chair milk paint b.jpg (not a great quality pic, I had to scan it off n old photograph).
But I was not very happy with the durability! It very quickly wore in the contact areas & chipped at the slightest provocation. By the time two kids had used that chair (for the brief time they do!) it looked 200 years old, not 4 or 5. This puzzled me, because there was quite a lot of milk paint in old houses where we were living at the time, and it was phenomenally tough stuff - an absolute pita to remove from places like architraving, ordinary paint strippers just don't cut it. Perhaps the stuff I used was intentionally formulated to get a distressed look quickly.
You can get a pretty close approximation of the milk-paint look with flat synthetic paints, though you might have to search for the 'antique' colours. There are plenty of formulas for milk paint, online; it's a bit of faffing about to make the stuff, but perhaps the 'genuine' article lasts longer?
Cheers,IW
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6th March 2018, 05:50 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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I think that item would look better with a very dark, almost black, stain rather then paint. Allow the grain to show through the black, just a tiny bit. Then finish with the same clear coat all over.
Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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6th March 2018, 06:24 PM #24
Umm, unles I'm way off, 'slaked lime' & 'hydrated lime' are one & the same (Calcium hydroxide Ca (OH)2. It's un-slaked lime (Calcium oxide, CaO) that gets hot when you add water - an exothermic chemical reaction as the water & CaO combine. I think I'd stick with the slaked or hydrated stuff - it's safer to play with, & I'm pretty sure it will serve the purpose....
Cheers,IW
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6th March 2018, 06:59 PM #25
We seem to be well down the rabbit hole.
I think I'll wimp out and use a cheap paint or stain.Franklin
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6th March 2018, 07:58 PM #26
What I do with my home made paints is experiment and paint things around the workshop . Ive got about four things painted before I started using milk , then I got to my milk stage and there are another four or five things using that . This was all done over a long time . Then one day a client wanted a large kitchen antique style unit . By that time I was confident enough to get a good finish . We did it and a few weeks later I got a call to ask what could be done about the smell ?? I went over and had a smell . It was only on the inside and needed the doors left open for a while. It reminded me of a kid in prep when I was 5 . She smelt of dry milk I think ! crikey she must have washed her hair in it !!
I said to the clients , give it some time open the doors and it should go . Which it must have done because I never got called back about it . Got more work from them later so it wasn't a problem .
The playing with it around the workshop is what Id be doing . what you will create is something that is pretty Nice . Its beautiful stuff. Its tough and looks great . And you can change the way it looks at the end. It Looks Nothing like cheap stuff.
Rob
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10th March 2018, 07:01 AM #27
My usual glacial pace for a build continues. I've sized up the rails and kickers for the drawer framing and am in the process of fitting that little jigsaw together.
I haven't decide on the paint job yet.
drawerFraming.jpgFranklin
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10th March 2018, 12:54 PM #28
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16th March 2018, 07:45 AM #29New Member
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18th March 2018, 06:39 PM #30
Only getting time to work on this in fits and spurts. I had already glued up and hand planed the timber for the top last week. Today I got around to glueing up the frame, cutting the top to size and, with some trepidation, roughing the under bevel on the table saw - scary stuff!
bevel1.jpg bevel2.jpgFranklin
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