Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default Wooden Stool WIP & Seat Sculpting

    Hi guys, I saw a video on YouTube of a guy making a workshop stool (samurai carpenter) and it inspired me to do the same and copy his design for the most part; different proportions mainly because I couldn't be bothered watching the video again! The stool involved a few new processes for me as well as provided an opportunity to refine some other hand tool and joinery processes (still a beginner).

    Got to use rasps to shape the gentle curves on the faces of the legs, cut some curves on the bandsaw and cut a bunch of mortises, through tennons, some drawbore joints etc. The legs were by far the most time consuming part so far.

    Here is a dry fit of the progress; some finish sanding and planing to go before assembly, as well as walnut dowels and wedges.

    20170207_075801.jpg

    20170207_075831.jpg

    Next step is the seat. Here is where I need help. I want to shape the seat but only have a Veritas pull shave. Should I get a holey gallahad grinding disc, a chair riffler/rasp a Travisher, a scorp ???? Walnut and tasse oak for the seat.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,743

    Default

    Much as I like grinding discs, and their speed, I would be more inclined to go with a hand tool for better control.

    Whilst I like walnut, I am also an advocate of our Australian timbers for beauty, and would go the tassie oak route. Just my 0.02c worth.

    PS. I like your workshop layout and dust control.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Thanks Cava,

    The legs are tassie oak and the seat will be primarily tassie oak with walnut breadboards.

    Which hand tools would you recommend? I'm confused about which would work. I imagine a scorp would be hard work in seasoned hardwood for example. The pullshave would work but I feel like something a little coarser would be better to start with and possibly something finer to finish...?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,743

    Default

    It's not my area of expertise, and someone more knowledgeable should chime in. That stated I would be inclined to try a travisher.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,743

    Default

    From a dimensional perspective, can you advise the diameter of ducting that you have used on the Harvey table saw?

    I am looking to open up my table saw, and improve the dust collection and yours looks the goods!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    From a dimensional perspective, can you advise the diameter of ducting that you have used on the Harvey table saw?

    I am looking to open up my table saw, and improve the dust collection and yours looks the goods!
    Hi Cava, the table saw has 6" ducting to the cabinet with a bell mouth entry. There is also a 4" overhead collection point. If you find my clearvue thread it's all detailed in there. Let me know if you can't find it.

    Still no advice on the seat carving anyone?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    684

    Default

    I've used the Holey Galahad and the Kutzall. Prefer the Holey as you can really see the exact spot you are carving as you go. The green 'fine' disk is more than enough especially for what you are doing. It is a quick remover and with a bit of practice first on a test piece (really important to get used to it I think) you'll get used to how it works. I did most of my carving outside so my shop wasn't full of dust. After that you could use a whole range of curved sole hand tools to help you out but I reckon straight from the fine Holey Galahad you could use sand paper and card scrapers.

    Side note, careful when tightening the disk onto the grinder as if the grinder wrench comes off it will chip the little carbide teeth off of the disk. I'm missing a few and it hasn't effect performance at all.

    Very nice stool BTW.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hurcorh View Post
    I've used the Holey Galahad and the Kutzall. Prefer the Holey as you can really see the exact spot you are carving as you go. The green 'fine' disk is more than enough especially for what you are doing. It is a quick remover and with a bit of practice first on a test piece (really important to get used to it I think) you'll get used to how it works. I did most of my carving outside so my shop wasn't full of dust. After that you could use a whole range of curved sole hand tools to help you out but I reckon straight from the fine Holey Galahad you could use sand paper and card scrapers.

    Side note, careful when tightening the disk onto the grinder as if the grinder wrench comes off it will chip the little carbide teeth off of the disk. I'm missing a few and it hasn't effect performance at all.

    Very nice stool BTW.
    Thanks, if I do go with the Galahad I wasn't sure whether the medium or fine was more appropriate so it's good to hear the fine is quick cutting enough. Does the standard grinder nut work with this or do I need to buy one of their "universal nuts"? Cheers, Dom

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    684

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DomAU View Post
    Thanks, if I do go with the Galahad I wasn't sure whether the medium or fine was more appropriate so it's good to hear the fine is quick cutting enough. Does the standard grinder nut work with this or do I need to buy one of their "universal nuts"? Cheers, Dom
    For my Bosch grinder the standard nut works and my Holey wheel came with a little arbor washer to bring the wheel down to the standard size for the grinder. Sorry, don't have it on hand to measure. (Away from home till Friday)

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Thanks Hurcorh,

    Ordered a Holey Galahad - Round Fine, as well as a medium and fine sand flappy-disc thingo. Don't think they'll arrive before the weekend but will hopefully get to try them out early next week.

    Still a bit of work to do on the stool before shaping the seat in any case; like making the seat in the first place

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Well I glued, dowelled and wedged the joints. Had a bit of trouble with one set of dowels/joint that was too tight after a tiny bit of glue as all joints were already tap-tight dry. Lesson learnt.

    20170211_183024.jpg
    You can see the slight gap where the joint didn't snug tight due to this glue tightness. I think it will disappear after finishing/ wax

    20170217_122910.jpg

    I also cut the seat mortise and tennon joinery / breadboards. Got to exercise the skew rebbate and large shoulder planes.

    20170212_160525.jpg

    20170212_180524.jpg
    20170217_124502.jpg

    Got my holey galahad so will shape the seat next. But away racing this weekend so not until next week

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Finally got a morning to try sculpting the seat! Used a fine Holey Galahad grinding disc as well as a pullshave, spokeshave, Japanese half round file/rasp and some hand sandpaper. I found it was tricky to get a smooth finish straight from the galahad grinding disc; just lack of skill no doubt. But it didn't take much work with the other tools to get rid of the bumps. I would have liked to have had a Travisher and a curved seat rasp. I didn't go too deep with the sculpting (didn't want to go too far and ruin it).

    20170304_153553.jpg
    20170304_172004.jpg
    20170304_184425.jpg

    Some finish sanding to go. And I still need to make the dovetail fastening for the seat to the frame. Almost done though.

    Oh, and applying some sort of finish I guess. Not sure what yet. Maybe BLO and wax. Or Danish oil. Or Antique oil...

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    cool
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Finished the base with some antique oil. Didn't like the result; too dark and orange. Spent 3 hours sanding the finish off and then went with a cabinet makers wax. Happy enough with this finish.

    20170305_174905.jpg


    20170305_182430.jpg

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,339

    Default

    Very nice.

Similar Threads

  1. Joinery Advise Required - How to attach seat to stool?
    By woodman-79 in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10th May 2014, 06:01 PM
  2. Sculpting Wood by Mark Lindquist
    By Paul39 in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 14th January 2011, 09:05 AM
  3. Wood Sculpting foxtel tonight
    By wheelinround in forum ANNOUNCEMENTS
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 2nd January 2009, 07:53 AM
  4. How to regrind worn tap seat + How to properly install a new seat insert
    By ubeaut in forum PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL, HEATING, COOLING, etc
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 16th November 2008, 07:10 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •