Thread: Removing the headstock of a Hercus AR

extract from the Textbook of turning 1st edition 1964

"Removing the Spindle (Roller Bearing)
To remove the spindle from a roller bearing headstock, the reverse bracket and gear guards are first removed, front and rear bearing caps taken off, take-up nut unscrewed and the spindle tapped forward as for the plain bearing machine.
The bearing "cups", or outer members, may be removed by tapping lightly and evenly on a pair of steel rods inserted in the two extraction holes provided in the headstock body immediately behind the bearing seatings."



My personal preference is to make up a set of pullers to reduce the impact stress on the bearings. As it is probably better to fit new bearings anyway, it probably isn't required.
Mal

Hi,

One alternative is to avoid the problem by using something like nutlink belting which can be cut to length and joined without removing the spindle. I believe that this has been satisfactory alternative.

If you can locate a copy of the 260 service manual it may give some clues on the bearing pullers.

There was a video produced by Hercus showing the removal of the bearings on a 260 and the usage of special tools to remove and replace the bearings.

--
David

Originally Posted by gherringh

If you can locate a copy of the 260 service manual it may give some clues on the bearing pullers.

I have the 260 service manual as a PDF. But the OP's lathe is an AR. Are the spindles the same?

There are a few drawings labelled "spindle puller" in the 260 manual. I don't know if this is what's required. I can email the file if it's of any use.

Chris

Different sizes than the 260 required for the Hercus 9, It doesn't take long to make a basic puller set. If you look at what you need to do, it's self explanitory, all you need is some pipe and machine a few shouldered inserts to get the right diameters plus a bit of threaded rod. The relevent pages from the 260 manual that Chris mentioned are attached.
Mal

Originally Posted by jack620

I have the 260 service manual as a PDF. But the OP's lathe is an AR. Are the spindles the same?

There are a few drawings labelled "spindle puller" in the 260 manual. I don't know if this is what's required. I can email the file if it's of any use.

Chris

Hi Chris, I am going to start to pull it apart very carefully in the morning. The machine it self seems to be mostly tight and original except for the 4" inch counter shaft pulley. I don't have a service manual so I hope I can sort it as easily as Mal has said but a look at a puller if even as a mud map can't hurt. I don't want to damage anything because I didn't take the time to find out how not to.

Thanks for your offer
Stephen

Originally Posted by allterrain50

Different sizes than the 260 required for the Hercus 9, It doesn't take long to make a basic puller set. If you look at what you need to do, it's self explanitory, all you need is some pipe and machine a few shouldered inserts to get the right diameters plus a bit of threaded rod. The relevent pages from the 260 manual that Chris mentioned are attached.
Mal

Thanks heaps Mal, I'll have a close look at it in the morning and let you know how I go

Stephen

First just let me say thanks for all the help I was offeredhere, I put a split (an old canvas flap belt) in yesterday to see how it ran,it was a little noisy but spun way to fast for me, I'll need to do somethingabout getting the 9" or 91/2" drive pully but that's another task forlater.

I was able to get the spindle and bearings out and offwithout much trouble at all. I've attached some photo's and it seems thebearings weren't in the best of shape, probably from lack of use because theidler and bull gears are in great shape, almost as new. The other great luck Ihad I was able to pick up both bearings 5 minutes from home, they cost me $114in total, I'm not sure if that's a good price but I was happy to pay it. I justhope it all goes back together as easily.

Thanks again
Stephen

Opps, spoke to soon, looks like someone used the back gear as a brake to loosen the chuck, it's missing a tooth. Buggar, looks like it's not going back together just yet

stephen

Hi Stephen,

I presume you replaced your bearings with standard grade, which should be ok.

I priced Timken precision 3 bearings some time ago. A complete set was over $1000.

Ken

Originally Posted by neksmerj

Hi Stephen,

I presume you replaced your bearings with standard grade, which should be ok.

I priced Timken precision 3 bearings some time ago. A complete set was over $1000.

Ken

Hi Ken , I don't know but if you say it could have cost me $1000 you could well be right, I only took them to one of the major bearing suppliers that were local and said I need to replace these and told him what they were out of, they were Timken that came of it, he looked them up and said here you go, not knowing I didn't give it another thought. The ones I took out were made in the USA. Can I expect any trouble with these do you think? I haven't put them in because I found a tooth missing on the back gear when I was cleaning it so I'll see if I can chase up a replacement before I do any more to it.

Stephen

Doesn't that make you sick, when you find some school clown has busted a tooth.

Allterrain50 (Mal) should be able to help you out.

Ken

Originally Posted by neksmerj

Doesn't that make you sick, when you find some school clown has busted a tooth.

Allterrain50 (Mal) should be able to help you out.

Ken

Yep, it sure does Ken I hope Mal can help, I'll send him off an email and keep my fingers crossed
Stephen

Stephen, plan B -
I had a similar issue once and managed to get a welder to braze the tooth back on. Now you haven't got the tooth, but if you got a sliver of CI brazed on it should not take too long to shape it with a file.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Stephen, plan B -
I had a similar issue once and managed to get a welder to braze the tooth back on. Now you haven't got the tooth, but if you got a sliver of CI brazed on it should not take too long to shape it with a file.

Michael

Hi Michael, if only I could use your plain B, the tooth is long gone but that train of thought I hadn't considered opens up other possibilities maybe

thanks for your input
Stephen