Thread: Magnifying light for scroll saw

These are the main Magnifying Lamp available. Now that they use the LED light they are even better as there is less heat on the back of your hands.

Just be aware that using a magnifying glass is a right pain unless your eyesight is not the best ,the light is great you need it. I would try cuts with magnification before buying.

The other important thing to consider is the amount of light available.

Most older people don't realize they need a lot more light than when they were younger. Even assuming everything else is they same (which is unlikely), on average a 60 year old needs twice as much light as a 20 year old. My experience is that most magnifying lamps simply don't have enough light output (lumens) for older people.

I worked with various magnifying lamps for years but about 5 years ago stopped using them and started to increase the general illumination around my work areas and just wearing my prescription reading glasses. I do a fair bit of electronics (ie small components, some with tiny writing on them) and found this is much better.

This works in two ways, one is because older eyes are generally cloudier and block more of the light, and because the brighter the available light, the more your pupils will contract which directs the light to a smaller area of the eyes lens. This means the troublesome variations across the cornea and lens that usually cause smearing of images on the retina are reduced.

A a guide I have up to 20,000 lumens (equivalent to about 10 regular 1.2m fluorescent tubes ) about 1m above my electronics workbench. I usually work with about 10,000 lumens and turn on the extra 10,000 lumens to look at especially small faint things through a loupe or a head magnifier.

In my 42 m^2 shed I have increased the general lighting from the original equivalent of 13 fluorous to 21 fluoros from when I first built the shed 10 years ago. I've also added 7 work/spot lights to various machines and it still seems a tad dim at times

A2463ED2-9F72-4D31-B423-2C7E4D1B07E0.jpgI
I use one from IKEA on my workbench. Works well with my old eyes and I use to suffer from industrial blindness. I would wake up in the morning and couldn’t see me going to work.

I have used a magnifying fluoro similar to Bucky's for about 30 years, but broke it just before Christmas. I had modified the foot replacing the clamp with a bit of tube that fitted the dogholes on my work bench and assembly bench. Very convenient.

For 20 years I thought it was the bees knees, but am now having doubts for two main reasons:

• its not as bright as it used to be, or my eyes need a lot more light, and
• a single fluoro is not a good idea near mechanical blades; It can stop motion.

Still mulling; will probably go down the same route as Bob.

• upgrade the ceiling lights everywhere, then
• install task lights as needed.
• The magnifier is a specific task light.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I have used a magnifying fluoro similar to Bucky's for about 30 years, but broke it just before Christmas. I had modified the foot replacing the clamp with a bit of tube that fitted the dogholes on my work bench and assembly bench. Very convenient.

For 20 years I thought it was the bees knees, but am now having doubts two main reasons:

• its not as bright as it used to be, or my eyes need a lot more light, and
• a single fluoro is not a good idea near mechanical blades; It can stop motion.

Still mulling; will probably go down the same route as Bob.

• upgrade the ceiling lights everywhere, then
• install task lights as needed.
• The magnifier is a specific task light.

It has leds you can vary the colour and brightness.

In place of Spots I have started to use 5000 lumen LED ring lights like these.
Here is one on my drill press
Ringlightinsitu.JPG

Old light (1000 lumen LED) New light (no shadows)
OldlightView.JPG Newlightview.JPG

Over all view
Ringlightviewon.JPG

I use the same sort above my 3D printer

Here's the so called 10,000 lumen LED panel above my electronics workbench and the 4 x 2500 lumen LED globes.
It doesn't look very bright because the camera auto adjusts so that it can recor a visible picture.
If I leave the camera on manual so that it takes a visible image with say a 750 lumen globe and then use the same setting the entire image is blinding white.
Both LEDs.jpg

BobL, I like how in your studio everything is Frankensteined with extra wires, knobs, switches and lights.


The drill press looks to have 5 separate switches for startup

Originally Posted by woodPixel

BobL, I like how in your studio everything is Frankensteined with extra wires, knobs, switches and lights.

You should see it now with the 3D printer and associated rubble taking up one side of the room

The drill press looks to have 5 separate switches for startup

The main yellow/red "No Volt switch turns the power on/off to the VFD.
It also still acts as an emerged off switch

The 2 toggle switches connect to the the VFD
One toggle is for "Forward, STOP, and Reverse', and the other toggle switches between "foot pedal" and 'non-foot-pedal" operation.