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Thread: Name Plaques

  1. #1
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    Default Name Plaques

    Made these for a client who is going to mount them on her kids bedroom doors.The lettering is 20mm thick pine mounted on a 4mm backer & the names are air brushed.Quite pleased as to how they turned out Cheers Peter.

    20170507_095903.jpg20170415_154857.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Nicely done.

    Where do you get the artwork for the letters/names from?

  4. #3
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    Quite pleased with how they turned out, Peter...
    NO WAY SIR, they look fantastic, well done!!
    Cheers, Peter

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    I use a free program called inkscape where I choose a font & then scale it etc. the font I used on these plaque's is called "birds of paradise"

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    Great work, they look fantastic.
    Which blade do you use when cutting something like this?
    Dallas

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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Great work, they look fantastic.
    Which blade do you use when cutting something like this?
    The blade I used for these was a number 5 Double Skip Tooth Reverse blade the reverse teeth help to stop the splintering on the underside of the workpiece. Cheers Peter

  8. #7
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    Hi @pawoods

    I came across this thread as i'm planning on a similar project for my son's bedroom door. My font of choice is nowhere near as intricate as i'm just starting out on scrolling and am doing this as a bit of practice (I'll probably need a half dozen attempts before i'm happy with the result).

    I had a question around prepping these for finishing (and all scrolling projects actually). Now to prep the front and the base, i know a drum sander is ideal, but as i don't have one, i'll probably run a sander over the top (might buy a couple of the progrip type clamps for this).

    My main question is how you sand the internal cuts... do you do this by hand or do you use a dremmel tool or similar? For my Name Plaque, I should be able to get away with sanding by hand, but when i eventually move on to more intricate pieces, how do i sand those?

    Thanks in advance,
    Dibs
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  9. #8
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    Hi Dibs ,When I make these I usually do not need to sand them at all.I find the finish using just the blades is very smooth ,occasionally i might have a small ridge where i start & finish the cut but a light sanding will get rid of this. but if you want to sand them you can make your own files with sand paper glued to small pieces of wood ,paddle pop sticks etc. or buy a set of needle files.If you have any what they call fuzzies on the underside of the project I usually burn them off with a gas torch but only if that side is not showing as you might have a few light scorch marks. Cheers Peter

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pawoods View Post
    Hi Dibs ,When I make these I usually do not need to sand them at all.I find the finish using just the blades is very smooth ,occasionally i might have a small ridge where i start & finish the cut but a light sanding will get rid of this. but if you want to sand them you can make your own files with sand paper glued to small pieces of wood ,paddle pop sticks etc. or buy a set of needle files.If you have any what they call fuzzies on the underside of the project I usually burn them off with a gas torch but only if that side is not showing as you might have a few light scorch marks. Cheers Peter
    Oh brilliant! I hate sanding!

    Im still waiting for blades that i ordered from Helen to arrive and ive only been stuffing around on scrap mdf so wasnt sure what the finish was like.

    Thanks for the info, much appreciated

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  11. #10
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    While you're waiting, take a quick look at the Sanding Stick # 56K94.01 in the Lee Valley catalog.
    I've got one. Very well made and enough belts to last more than a lifetime with a crepe rubber stick.
    Sometimes lots of "nuisance corners" in a wood carving. This stick is better than I expected.

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