Thread: some general questions

Eliza go do a you tube search plenty of videos to watch for free

or Steve Goods site

Here is what I mean about the foot

Photo one - after it kicks up . Photo two - how it should be. Photo three - the screw holding it in place and it's done up as tightly as it can be.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpooR4AcBQI&feature=channel"]YouTube - How to Use a Scroll Saw : How to Use a Scroll Saw[/ame]

He doesn't have a foot. Although that would solve the problem - it doesn't look safe!

Tell me not to take the foot off...

Eliza video wont work

nearly all scrollsaw people I have seen get rid of two things the dust cover and the foot better vision of the work piece and manoeuvrability. I am new to it also but everything I see is this way.

good luck

On every saw I have owned I removed the hold down as it just got in the way. Just my 2 cents worth.

I suspect it depends on the blade you use. I tend to use blades with reversed teeth that cut on up and down strokes. It gives a cleaner finish to the underside of the cut. The downside is that the reversed teeth tend to lift the work away from the table. I usually use the hold down as it makes the work more controllable. If you were using a standard blade that only cut on the down, then the table is taking that pressure, and the hold down may not be needed. Try it both ways and see.

Peter

Eliza,
Just about every scrollsaw forum has talked about the "hold down" foot, and just about everybody agrees it's best to take it off.
Unless you're using reverse tooth blades, all the "drag" is downwards, and it takes very little effort to hold a piece down.
Try cutting some wood without the foot-but make sure the blade is in the right way (teeth pointing down)!
Anybody who says they've never put a blade in upside down, is simply lying.
Bruce

Dratted thing!!!

I'm sorry I bought it.

Not only does Carba Tec have the same model for $60 less on special this week, but the one I have doesn't have rubber inserts in the holes where you bolt it down, to stop the vibration. It's vibrating all over the place and the wood spends more time bouncing around then it does cutting.

I can't be this hard! Surely the wood going up and down like that can't be normal? My fingers are cramped from trying to hold it down.

And no, before you say it - the blade is in the right way, and it's sharp, because I put a new one in and tried it.

I hate this!

What sort of blade are you using? The wood bouncing up and down is exactly what I get if I don't use the hold down, but the blades I use have every 3rd tooth reversed. I guess those reverse teeth pick up th wood and throw it around. I have to use the hold down. Having said that, with my hold down (which looks the same as yours) tightened as tight as it will go, it doesn't swing up like yours does. I have only used plywood so far, so I guess sawing a large flat surface helps that.

Good luck

Peter

olsen blades, all the teeth point down. I'm using it on 1/4 inch and 10mm wood. The pieces are small, 2 inch by 5 inch or 6 inch, so I don't have much holding power with out my fingers getting close.

The other thing is what size blades are you using? I don't have a huge amount of experience yet, but I have had less pulling up of the wood with finer toothed blades. If you are using a large blade then try a #3 or smaller and see how you go.

Peter

Thanks. I'm using medium because that is what was suggested. I had a feeling I'd be wanting fine for the small stuff I'm doing. I'll get fine when I get more money!

Like many others the first move is to do away with the foot. If you need rubbers under the saw you can put your own between the saw and the table. You might have to work out how to attach the rubber. If you are going to bolt the saw down just cut holes in the rubber and push the bolts trough. I realy don't think the rubbers make much difference. I do advise bolting the saw down to a firm table. Clamps could be used to do that if you don't whant holes in a good table. I would suggest you look closely at what sort of blades you are using. Harris Traders have a very good selection of blades and the price is very good. You might be using a course blade out of a hardware store that are cheap and nasty. I would suggest a number 5 or 7 Pegas brand.

I am sure contact with Harris trading would put you on the right track. Phone 03 53826224 or [email protected] Delivery is by post in an ordinary envelope and postage price. Payment is by you direct into their bank account. Very simple and easy.

Don't lose heart it's a great hobby

Red Gum

A good solid table is a must. I had a Delta and I used the sole from a pair of old work boots. Just cut out little squares and bored required size holes through them and then bolted down TIGHT. This helped a fair bit in my case. But if you don't have a solid tabe I can't see anything helping much at all. Also get rid of the foot. Just my 2 bob's worth! lol
Noel