Thread: removing fuzzies

I read somewhere the very best way to remove the fuzzies is with a gas blowtorch They say it works really well. Let us know how you go

Originally Posted by TEEJAY

I read somewhere the very best way to remove the fuzzies is with a gas blowtorch

I reckon it'd turn 'em into curlies at the very least! :eek:

P

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

I reckon it'd turn 'em into curlies at the very least! :eek:

P

Black curlies - then you shave - em

But seriously Juvy - it should work without any curly or shave

A reverse tooth blade should stop it before it starts, I refuse to get tied up in this frivolity and sillyness................because I can't add anything thats already been said

Originally Posted by Iain

A reverse tooth blade should stop it before it starts, I refuse to get tied up in this frivolity and sillyness................because I can't add anything thats already been said

You are right Iain, I use the Flying Dutchman reverse tooth blades and have never needed do more than cut the wood and admire the finish of the cut.

The article I read about the fuzzies being burnt off the author was using and singing the praises of the spiral blade and saying the fuzzies are not an issue with a gas torch. I have some advanced spiral blades from FD but haven't used them yet.

Originally Posted by TEEJAY

You are right Iain, I use the Flying Dutchman reverse tooth blades and have never needed do more than cut the wood and admire the finish of the cut.

The article I read about the fuzzies being burnt off the author was using and singing the praises of the spiral blade and saying the fuzzies are not an issue with a gas torch. I have some advanced spiral blades from FD but haven't used them yet.

Are they the reverse tooth spirals?
I only use spirals for detailing work eg: veins in a leaf etc where I can move the piece around the blade to get the detail/shape I require, too coarse for anything else.

I'm a RE-learner so don't really know what I'm talking about - however, have you tried dampening the affected work area? This swells the grain and after sanding damp the dry work is finer - er, well, er, I think.

Originally Posted by Iain

Are they the reverse tooth spirals?
I only use spirals for detailing work eg: veins in a leaf etc where I can move the piece around the blade to get the detail/shape I require, too coarse for anything else.

I'll go and have a look.

Stuck at home today with food-poisoning Determined to get some shed time in though. Thanks for the opportunity to visit it again .

Okay I have no 1, 3 & 5 FD New Spiral. I grabbed the No5 and looked at it under my 5 diopta magnifying lamp and it gave me a pretty good look at the teeth on the spiral and No they are not a reverse tooth spiral.

I haven't used these blades yet and don't know what they are like for either control or fuzzies.

To make an analogy, I think of a spiral as a router, except you move the piece around the blade not vice versa, there is a reverse tooth spiral, although I have not used one, control can be a problem for conventional straight cuts as the blade is wont to follow the grain.
Being spiral means they are not directional and they can get you out of a spot of bother if you have a piece that doesn't quite fit on the table, you can cut in any direction.
Like I said though, there is a place for them but for normal cutting they are far too thick.

I use reverse tooth blades also and find that eliminates most of the fuzzies, but the mouse sander and files usually pick up any that remain. I have heard of the blow torch but cant say im too willing to try it. Think I have also heard some people give the fuzzies a spray of lacquer to harden them and then sand them.

I agree with Iain on the spirals, will only use them if I really have too, and that isnt too often.

Spirals.....Now that's a bad word.....I don't like them and they don't like me. Really have tried to use them on several occaions for portrait style work. Others can do it but I can't control them. As far as fuzzies go. I don't seem to have much of a problems with them using reverse tooth blades in the hardwoods....but in the softer woods like pine and/or aspen, poplar I see more of it on the back side of my cut. I to end up with a small piece of sandpaper or files to do the hand sanding bit.
Lin

Goddam it! Now you folk have to go and have this discussion, after I've mod'd my wee GMC scrolly so spirals will be the only practical choice.

Why couldn't someone have spoken up before I started the mod?

Why wont flat blades fit in it any longer??

Andy, Don't get wound up....I know lots of scroller that sprials are there chioce of blades to use....They can do very intrcate work with them....Thinner wood is sometimes harder for them to control but what you will be doing will just take a bit of practice and will be awesome when you pull it off. I have seen one piece done the way you are setting your saw up to do and it blew my mind....Guy cut a wolfhead outta the side of a turned vase....Wild to say the least....and of course he used spirals to do it. I do think that you will get your GMC set up for your scrolling your lathe work then will want to get another saw for flat work....You do have enough room for another saw don't you....you are headed in that direction you know....
Lin