Thread: Scheppach Deco Scroll saw - beginner set up problem...easy questions hopefully

Hi, we just bought a secondhand one today, it has two bolt ends that are wound in with a allen key at each end to clamp the blade. Do you have a manual for it? I am unsure how to take off the bottom blade holding mechanism so I can put a pinned blade in, the top one just lifts out.

Donna

G'day woodmama. I'm currently using a Jet 16", but have a new DecoFlex in the box sitting here. I previously had another DecoFlex, so should be able to answer all questions, but will pull the new one out in the morning to remind myself if needed.

Originally Posted by woodmama

I'm not sure if a grub/allen screw has fallen out of one of them or whether it was meant to come with 3 (using one screw in top and one in bottom clamp and one for spare???) . I dont know whether i should be using a grub screw either side of where the blade gets inserted into the clamp to try to centre the alignment of the blade in the clamp - or do u just screw one of them in from the side so it just acts as a clamp. it seems like such a lame question but I cant find the answer to it anywhere.

This question I can answer now - use 2 grub screws per blade clamp, as you suggested, (there should be 4 grub screws in total), and use them to centre the blade as you tighten them. Easiest to screw the opposing screws in until they meet in the centre, then back both off a bit, equally, until a blade slips in.
As I understand your post, you only have 3 grub screws. You can probably get another if you take one along to either an auto accessory shop or, failing that, a bearing shop. Or a bolt specialist if you have one close.

Also - is it possible to get an easier quick blade change adaptor type thing for this saw - I heard that the system on the Excalibur saw is really good for fast changes but not sure if there is anything similar for this unit
thanks for any advice in advance...the manual doesnt say much!

I can't help with this one - maybe someone else can help out?

Originally Posted by flynnsart

Hi, we just bought a secondhand one today, it has two bolt ends that are wound in with a allen key at each end to clamp the blade. Do you have a manual for it? I am unsure how to take off the bottom blade holding mechanism so I can put a pinned blade in, the top one just lifts out.

Donna

Hey Donna. I thought that the bottom blade clamp just unhooked like the top one. I'll unpack the new one in the morning and check it out, then get back to you.

Here's the relevant parts of the manual, but they don't help a real lot:

DecoFlex blade instructions.jpg DecoFlex illustrations 1.jpg DecoFlex illustrations 2.jpg

Originally Posted by woodmama

howdy everyone, i just pulled a scroll saw that i have had in storage for over the last 3 years out that i had bought new but hadnt been able to use it before, Its a Scheppach Deco 16 inch one . I think i had worked out the pinned blade set up with it - my question is about the pinless blade clamps. I'm not sure if a grub/allen screw has fallen out of one of them or whether it was meant to come with 3 (using one screw in top and one in bottom clamp and one for spare???) . I dont know whether i should be using a grub screw either side of where the blade gets inserted into the clamp to try to centre the alignment of the blade in the clamp - or do u just screw one of them in from the side so it just acts as a clamp. it seems like such a lame question but I cant find the answer to it anywhere.
Also - is it possible to get an easier quick blade change adaptor type thing for this saw - I heard that the system on the Excalibur saw is really good for fast changes but not sure if there is anything similar for this unit
thanks for any advice in advance...the manual doesnt say much!

For the pinless blade adaptor from Helen Harris type clamps its one grub screw to mount the clamp and one grub screw to tighten the clamp make use the blade is just in front of the grub screw for best holding. The sprare will be just that make sure your allen key fits tight into the screw. I have had mine now for about 3 years and although not often used is great little device. If you go to Bunnings and into the electrical dept locate the rocker switch it is about the size of the palm of your hand cable either side to plug into the socket and into the scroll saw lead. This allows you to place the switch on the floor and turn off while holding work still on the table I have one and it works great. I can't find a link to the switch will take photo of mine later. The switch on the floor or at your knee must be rest and the one on the saw then used to start up again.

Ray raises a good point - it depends on whether you have the original Scheppach blade clamps or aftermarket ones. I'm assuming you both have the supplied Scheppach clamps. (They have pairs of clamp screws that must be tightened together, then they simply hook on at top and bottom.)

I just unpacked the new one. I don't have a pinless blade on hand, so cut a thin strip of cardboard to try the clamps.

Donna, once you release the tension and unhook the clamp from the top, it should readily unhook from the bottom as well. I just did it a couple of times to be sure.

When fitting the blade into the clamps, it goes in through the small end hole, not the third threaded one. (Not sure what that's for.)

A couple of pics, with the simulated blade:

Blade in clamps.JPG Assembly fitted.JPG

Thank you for your replies, (and for going to the trouble of copying the manual pages for me) I had forgotten just how helpful the members of this group are . I will have another go this arvo to get the bottom one off.

Donna

Originally Posted by flynnsart

Thank you for your replies, (and for going to the trouble of copying the manual pages for me) I had forgotten just how helpful the members of this group are . I will have another go this arvo to get the bottom one off.

Donna

Let us know how you go.

Originally Posted by Hermit

Ray raises a good point - it depends on whether you have the original Scheppach blade clamps or aftermarket ones. I'm assuming you both have the supplied Scheppach clamps. (They have pairs of clamp screws that must be tightened together, then they simply hook on at top and bottom.)

I just unpacked the new one. I don't have a pinless blade on hand, so cut a thin strip of cardboard to try the clamps.

Donna, once you release the tension and unhook the clamp from the top, it should readily unhook from the bottom as well. I just did it a couple of times to be sure.

When fitting the blade into the clamps, it goes in through the small end hole, not the third threaded one. (Not sure what that's for.)

A couple of pics, with the simulated blade:

Blade in clamps.JPG Assembly fitted.JPG

Thanks Steve totally forgot about the original Schepac pinless holders I went straight to Helen Harris ones I still have the originals tho. So as Steve said yes use two screws but only need to undo one side the preparation area on top of the arm gives you the length required for best fit also helps hold everything still.

This is the type i am using

Originally Posted by wheelinround

This is the type i am using

They look good, Ray. Once they're fitted it would be much easier to change pinless blades than with the standard Scheppach clamps, by the look. The Jet has similar clamps permanently fitted, so changing either type of blade is easy.

I should add - so far, on the stuff that I do, I've never needed a hole smaller than 5mm dia, so have only used pinned blades.

Hi all, hubby got it off, thanks again.
Donna

Originally Posted by flynnsart

Hi all, hubby got it off, thanks again.
Donna

Excellent. Now's the good part - using it. Have fun.

hi there everyone,
my apologies for not replying sooner, i managed to get the grub screw problem sorted - as it turned out - one was in fact missing from the saw so i went to a fastener place and they managed to supply me with a few extra in case they slip out.wear out etc.

Can i just ask everyone - Are there blade clamps that you can get that actually fix in place on the upper and lower arm so that you can just reposition your work and continue doing intricate scroll work instead of the stirrup type ones that came with the machine??. I just dont think i have the co=ordination or dexterity - or patience to be doing that all the time. A system where the blade is held in place in the lower clamp and then the work rethreaded over the new hole looks so much more easier, user friendly than the waltz i am trying to do with mine at the moment.

Also, what type of blade is better for hardwood e.g redgum - high TPI or lower TPI. am looking at trying to make some pendants out of approx 19 mm redgum or similar but am finding it really hard going and dont think i've got a good combination of blade going yet.

If I cant get something sorted with the pinless blade changing system - I might just end up sticking with pinned blades - at least they are easier to get on and off.

cheers everyone - and thank you for the replies back - much appreciated. I'm sorta flying in the dark on this one so any help is great

Originally Posted by woodmama

hi there everyone,
my apologies for not replying sooner, i managed to get the grub screw problem sorted - as it turned out - one was in fact missing from the saw so i went to a fastener place and they managed to supply me with a few extra in case they slip out.wear out etc.

Can i just ask everyone - Are there blade clamps that you can get that actually fix in place on the upper and lower arm so that you can just reposition your work and continue doing intricate scroll work instead of the stirrup type ones that came with the machine??. I just dont think i have the co=ordination or dexterity - or patience to be doing that all the time. A system where the blade is held in place in the lower clamp and then the work rethreaded over the new hole looks so much more easier, user friendly than the waltz i am trying to do with mine at the moment.

Also, what type of blade is better for hardwood e.g redgum - high TPI or lower TPI. am looking at trying to make some pendants out of approx 19 mm redgum or similar but am finding it really hard going and dont think i've got a good combination of blade going yet.

If I cant get something sorted with the pinless blade changing system - I might just end up sticking with pinned blades - at least they are easier to get on and off.

cheers everyone - and thank you for the replies back - much appreciated. I'm sorta flying in the dark on this one so any help is great

I'm not sure, but I think that the blade holders linked to by wheelinround in Post #9 fix in place on the upper and lower arms. Perhaps he can clarify.
Keep in mind that sometimes you won't be able to get the workpiece threaded into place without removing the blade from the lower clamp as well as the top.

Regarding TPI, it's generally recommended to aim for 3 to 4 teeth in the material during cutting. Red Gum is pretty hard stuff, so you'll need to go really slow. Burning might be a problem. Perhaps something a bit softer until you get some experience?

thanks Steve - yes you are right - redgum is like trying to cut through house brick its so hard but i have a couple of bits of old firewood here that have well dried out and would like to see if i can use them for this - just because its what i have on hand. I love Australian hardwood - but wow its tough as nails to cut through.