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Thread: Scroll saw for occasional use.
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16th November 2015, 06:30 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Have been following this thread with interest. Thanks for sharing.
Can you please keep us informed of your next step re blades and changing adaptorsregards,
Dengy
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16th November 2015 06:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th November 2015, 06:42 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Know what you mean about the Brisbane City traffic tunnels. Had to travel recently from the Maleny Wood Show ( way north of Brisbane) to Ipswich ( way out west) , bUt ended up at the Airport, with no turn back ( north east of the city). For you Sydney slickers, that is the equivalent of going from Hornsby to Penrith, and ending up at the Airport.
regards,
Dengy
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16th November 2015, 10:12 PM #18Senior Member
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Dengue, I'll report back as soon as I've tried out the saw and if and when I use the clamps, probably will use them as I believe in simplifying operations where possible (to avoid possible temper tantrums which get in the way of creative activity). I've received so much generous input here that I feel obliged to contribute what little I can.
I'm glad someone else found the tunnels confusing. I do really well above ground (majored in cartography!) but put me underground and I'd rather not be there. Above ground, no matter how strange the territory, all I have to do is use my watch (no, it's not digital) and I know where North is, therefore anywhere else. Obviously North is in the same direction underground but the escape routes are not so signed.
I'm waiting on more tools as I'm hoping to use the saw for inlay so don't be surprised if my next post is delayed. I will report back.Thanks again to everyone. Jen
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17th November 2015, 02:35 PM #19Senior Member
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Another question for the experts..... I want to care for my new saw so looked at an old thread that said to use fine wet and dry or a scouring pad on the bed then coat it with Armourall. Is this the preferred pre-treatment to keep the bed in good condition? I also have beeswax. Would that be preferable to Armourall as in the same thread someone said not to use products containing silicone (Armourall has it) as that interferes with glues. Does anyone use beeswax? I also have car polish but suspect that may contain silicone.
The saw has a sticky coating which I imagine is to protect it from rust until it's ready for use. There's nothing in the very quaintly-worded manual about removing it but I expect mineral spirits would do that? Can someone clarify, please?
I'm glad I read the manual though. It warns about standing on the tool and the danger of falling. Who knows what could have happened.....a timely warning. That 250mm drop would have been devastating. Jen
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17th November 2015, 03:19 PM #20Senior Member
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Staring right at it!
Does anyone have an updated email address for Helen Harris please? I tried the address from the on-line PDF for Harris Traders but the email bounced back as 'recipient unknown'. <ochjh@netconnect< html=""><[email protected]>
Thanks, Jen
There it is, in the very next thread. Guess we can't post email addresses or HTML.
</[email protected]></ochjh@netconnect<>Last edited by Cleokitty; 17th November 2015 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Duh!
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18th November 2015, 11:50 AM #21GOLD MEMBER
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I use the green scouring pad and WD40 to remove the rust, clean it all off with metho, then a couple of coats of Ubeaut traditional wax rubbed in and then polished. Pretty good result for the tropics, but you have to do it again first sign of any rust
regards,
Dengy
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18th November 2015, 11:59 AM #22Senior Member
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Thank you for that, dengue. I'm starting with a rust-free saw so think I just need to clean the shipping goo off it and apply the wax.
Will metho take off the shipping goo? I don't want to use anything that will make a stickier mess. I have mineral spirits, too, and acetone. Any advice as to the easiest to do the job? Thanks Jen.
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18th November 2015, 12:23 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Oomph from Bunnings is great for removing sticky stuff. So you don't have any cast iron surfaces that will rust?
As an aside, I find drops of sweat from my forehead or glasses is the quickest way to form rust on cast iron. Salty water !regards,
Dengy
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18th November 2015, 12:33 PM #24Senior Member
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[QUOTE=Dengue;1909569]Oomph from Bunnings is great for removing sticky stuff. So you don't have any cast iron surfaces that will rust?
Not sure what you mean, Dengue. I plan to apply the wax to help prevent rust after cleaning off the shipping goo. Is there something else i should do?
Thanks for the Oomph tip....I've never heard of it.
Yeah, coming up to the time of year for terrycloth headbands. Jen
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18th November 2015, 12:51 PM #25
Your Turps will remove the goo without a problem. I am with Dengue on the Ubeaut Traditional Wax. I use it on all my cast iron surfaces and it protects quite well and also makes the surface very slippery. You can use it on other surfaces too if you want them to be slippery.
Oomph is very good for cleaning off lots of sticky things and stains, but not required to get the goo off machine tables.
If you take a trip to Carbatec in Melbourne this Saturday they have a demonstration on how to set up and operate a Scroll Saw. Did they include that free in your purchase?
It is always very important to read the 50 pages in the manual on safety, you never know what you might have to contend with that you haven't thought of. Then you can read the 5 pages on how to operate the machineDallas
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18th November 2015, 01:32 PM #26Senior Member
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Thanks, treecycle that's good to know as I have turps on hand. The wax I have, without going shopping, is Natural Bees' Wax Furniture Polish from Mother of Pearl and Sons Trading. That should work?
Melbourne is too big a detour, I'm in SE Q. I was given a demo of the steps to changing the blade but there were some pieces missing on the demo saw and the demonstrator didn't use the swear-assisted option so it was a bit fiddly. The manual leaves a lot to be desired! Once upon a time I wrote and illustrated equipment and machinery manuals so maybe I should offer CarbaTEc a deal.
I'll be looking into the clamps from Helen Harris but for now I'll try the hard way:=) Jen
Were there 5 pages on Operation?
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19th November 2015, 09:49 AM #27
I haven't tried the Bee's Wax so I'm not sure how it works in comparison to the Ubeaut Traditional wax. Hopefully you can save some dollars if it works as well.
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19th November 2015, 10:12 AM #28Senior Member
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I used the bees' wax last night and the surface feels very slick. Have yet to use the saw as I'm uncertain as to where the red lever should be positioned after the blade is inserted and tightened. The manual is quite obscure and I'm not sure if the lever should be upright or back. It's straight upright now and I'm concerned I'll snap the blade if I push it back. I'll probably call CarbaTec.
Called CarbaTec. Questions answered!
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19th November 2015, 02:31 PM #29Senior Member
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Once you have it all cleaned up, here is a suggestion to keep it that way. Get some sheet magnet. The stuff that sign makers use to make big signs that they put on the sides of vans and cars. You can order it from a number of magnet suppliers or go down to your local sign shop and see if they will sell you a small bit big enough to cover the saw table/bed. I have this on my table saw. I still clean it off and apply some rust inhibitor after each use but then put my magnetic sheets on the table top. This will keep out any air and protect the table. So far, so good. I didn't come up with this idea, I found it at a US company called Eagle America (http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...00/maintenance) but they don't ship out here so I have to find my own solution.
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19th November 2015, 02:44 PM #30Senior Member
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Thanks, Tonguetied. That's a great idea. Somewhere there's an old magnetic sign that wouldn't stick to the door of a ute. I know I salvaged it for a reason, (suspected that the door was full of Bondo or some other panel-beater's remedy which stopped its sticking.) Jen
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