Thread: Scroll saw for occasional use.

Peter, I'm looking forward to trying it out. I couldn't move the tension lever on top; it was just far too stiff. Short of whacking it with a sledge hammer, which wasn't in the manual, I couldn't budge it. The little teflon sleeves on the rocker-action lever were broken and seemed to be inhibiting the movement. CarbaTec kindly offered to let me return it but I opted to have them try to free it up. They changed the teflon sleeves and now the lever is a bit easier to operate. The replacement sleeves seem to be starting out chewed up, too, so I don't know what function they actually perform. I haven't used it since getting it back, other than to test the lever, so can't comment on its performance yet. I haven't modified the blade clamps yet, either. I'll try it as it is first.

Now I'm about to wrestle with a new Dremel 4000 and plunge router attachment....(Must sound as though I'm mechanically challenged. I'm actually not). The uTube set-up video I've watched so far shows mainly close-ups of hands obscuring the parts and the mysterious appearance part way through of an after-market chuck. The manual appears to have been written for an earlier model. More research needed as I don't want to break it.....and I thought inlay would be fun and relaxing!

Originally Posted by Cleokitty

Peter, I'm looking forward to trying it out. I couldn't move the tension lever on top; it was just far too stiff. Short of whacking it with a sledge hammer, which wasn't in the manual, I couldn't budge it. The little teflon sleeves on the rocker-action lever were broken and seemed to be inhibiting the movement. CarbaTec kindly offered to let me return it but I opted to have them try to free it up. They changed the teflon sleeves and now the lever is a bit easier to operate. The replacement sleeves seem to be starting out chewed up, too, so I don't know what function they actually perform. I haven't used it since getting it back, other than to test the lever, so can't comment on its performance yet. I haven't modified the blade clamps yet, either. I'll try it as it is first.

Now I'm about to wrestle with a new Dremel 4000 and plunge router attachment....(Must sound as though I'm mechanically challenged. I'm actually not). The uTube set-up video I've watched so far shows mainly close-ups of hands obscuring the parts and the mysterious appearance part way through of an after-market chuck. The manual appears to have been written for an earlier model. More research needed as I don't want to break it.....and I thought inlay would be fun and relaxing!

Hi Jen I have worn out some of those sleeves also,they do get a fair bit of use,instead of using the teflon sleeves I use the insulation off a piece of single 10mm electrical cable cut to length ,they have lasted 6 months so far,being an electrician I have plenty on hand & I also put a few drops of oil on the surfaces. Cheers Peter

Huh! Thanks, Peter. I was wondering if there was something generic and readily available. Jen

Have you been able to complete any works that you can show us yet? Interested to see how it is going.

Thank you for your interest, Dallas, but no, nothing is finished, just have several bits of chewed up veneer. My technique needs refining or equipment needs modifying. Long ago and faraway I had a scrollsaw with a wire 'rope' instead of a blade, which was impregnated with something such as diamond chips or silicon carbide, can't remember, but it was a modified hacksaw blade. (I used it for making small notches in glass for a wall-hanging I was making.) On the Metalwork forum I see it was probably an 'Abrafile'. After the silly season is over I'll see if I can find such a thing because the toothed scrollsaw blades are making mincemeat out of the thin veneer I'm trying to cut.

If anyone knows what else they may be called, or a suitable substitute I'd appreciate it.

Maybe these articles might help with blade suggestions. From what I read it is recommended that 2 teeth are in the material being cut at all times.
Choosing Scroll Saw Blades Page 1
Help for Newbies by Dave Gandy

Is this the type of blade you are looking for? Looks like they are called files and they are available here.

Thanks for those links. I'll re-read all that good info again when I have time to absorb it. Lots to consider.....

Those files do look close but are not what I had before as they are deeper than they are wide. They may well do the job. What I had was a very fine abrasive encrusted wire rope that was round, allowing easy movement in any direction. If I can't find that I'll try those blades. Thanks again for the information.

If folk are still looking to buy a good secondhand scrollsaw - check out the forum market place....

Delta ScrollSaw

Another question...has anyone tried to slow down their scrollsaw? Unfortunately when I bought the saw I thought that variable speed meant 0-to max. The CT 18 goes from 400-1400 rpm. As I'm trying to do inlay I was hoping for the option of speeds closer to using a hand-held jewellers' saw for tiny fiddly bits as the speed seems to be a contributing factor in the chewing up of the veneer. ( I currently can't use a jewellers' saw as my right paw isn't functioning normally yet, following hand surgery.) I've read much information on-line, some of it contradictory but out of it I gather that most of the speed control devices seem to be for DC brushed motors and the saw has an AC brushless motor. I'll probably be able to get an answer from some of the electrical suppliers after new year but all seem to be closed now. In the meantime does anyone have any experience doing this? Jen

It appears that 400spm is the standard minimum speed for just about all makes including top of the range Excalibur. The only thing I can see that may be able to slow it down is this but it is only a kit, expensive, and needs to be assembled by an experienced person.
There are foot pedal controllers on Ebay but they don't give any details on what type of motor they are suitable for. For the price I don't think they will be what you are after.

Thank you for that, Dallas. I did come across that earlier and spoke to Jaycar but 'assembly by an experienced constructor' was the turn-off. I was hoping for the plug-and-play solution. I'm hoping the reopening of industrial electrical places after New Year will provide more clues. Given the cost of the assemble-it-yourself kit I shudder to think what a 'ready to rock' item will cost. I also want to buy locally from a bricks and mortar store, even if it's off their website, rather than risk destroying the motor with one off eBay that doesn't have a local reputation. Seems the options for something to go wrong are exponential.

On uTube I saw a really cool conversion of a jewellers' saw by the late Dixie Michelle. She rigged up a jewellers' saw with a manually-operated spring return mechanism and operated it with a foot peddle. (I'm really starting to suffer from feelings of inadequacy!)

Thanks again for the input.

What are the chances of adapting a blade holder to an old Singer sewing machine?

Hi, that thought occurred down here too so I looked on-line and found a few such conversions which all seemed too onerous, a lot to do with the position of the motor above, rather than below, the needle/blade and consequently the direction of the cut. The conversions I saw inverted the direction, if I understood it properly. That would be perfect if it was not so difficult as the ability to go really slowly would be a great asset. My electrician neighbour took the foot control off an old machine to see if he could adapt it to make the saw run more slowly but the foot controls are set up for brushed motors. The scrollsaw has a brushless motor. Now that businesses are open after the break I'll be checking with industrial electrical outlets. Thank you for the input from the frozen north. Are you up to the eaves in snow yet?

No Cleo, it's really quite dry = less that 24"/60cm in the front yard. Has not snowed since maybe Dec.18 or so.
Dang cold with -20C sunrises at 8:30AM these days. No bugs, no mud, I guess I shouldn't wish for hotter.
The deer beds in the yard and tracks up onto my front doorstep are still clear.
We had a 110cm dump last January one night which really slowed everyone down.
No avalanche deaths so far, either. Broken femurs, stuff like that, never makes the news.

I hope that you can figure out this saw thing = I need a scroll saw from time to time for cutting all sots of bits for wood carvings.
I run a Delta but a chore to set out on the bench, blow off the dust and make it go.