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  1. #1
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    Default Another Scroll Saw question from a Newbie

    Sorry to keep badgering folks, but i can't seem to find an answer to my question on google...

    I was playing on the JET last night, i changed the blade (pinned blade, got them free when i bought the saw) and adjusted the tension (not sure if i did it enough or too much) and when i was cutting through the timber, hardwood or some description i'm not up to speed with identifying species yet, it felt and sounded like the blade was skipping/jumping. Would this be a blade tension issue, speed setting, feed speed or a combination of all three? admittedly i only was on it for 10 minutes or so before i had to put my son to bed...


    It was almost like the blade would jam and the pin would lift off the anchor point briefly until the up/down stroke caught the pin again...

    Cheers
    Dibs
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

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  3. #2
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    I just downloaded and had a read of the manual for your saw. The blade shouldn't be able to move in the holder. Check that the blade clamping screws are tight. I should mention that I know nothing about scroll saws and won't have mine set up for a few weeks yet.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    I just downloaded and had a read of the manual for your saw. The blade shouldn't be able to move in the holder. Check that the blade clamping screws are tight. I should mention that I know nothing about scroll saws and won't have mine set up for a few weeks yet.
    I think thats only for pinless blades. Pinned blades sort of hook on to either end of the arms... i might be wrong though

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    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  5. #4
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    If you pluck the blade with your fingernail you should get a high pitched ping like sound. This is the only way I can describe it & it is how I can tell if my blade is tensioned enough.

  6. #5
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    I'm only a novice on the scrollsaw but I too do similar to "pawoods" to check the tension....

    Also I ensure the piece I'm cutting is held down firm on the table...

  7. #6
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    thanks guys, i don't think its the tension, but i'll double check it when i use it next.

    I have a feeling i'm using the wrong blades. My mate who i got the saw from was cutting a lot of thin metal on it, so i suspect the blade i'm using was more for metal work. I re-read a scrolling book i bought a while back and i think i have way to many TPI and the teeth a too small for the wood i was using. Also i think as a result i was forcing the wood onto the blade too much causing the blade to get stuck on either the up or down stroke... thats all theoretical at this stage, but i'll be putting in an order for some new blades, a few skip tooth, some reverse skip tooth and some double tooth to get me started.
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  8. #7
    crowie's Avatar
    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Helen Harris is great for scollsaw blades, many on the forum purchase from her!!

  9. #8
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    I am not a scrollsaw expert but the blades seem to make a big difference to cutting performance. If they were metal cutting blades they probably had very little set on the teeth which could make them jamb in the wood lifting your workpiece and the tooth geometry may be different to what you want for wood.
    Hopefully the new ones will meet your expectations
    Dallas

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    Helen Harris is great for scollsaw blades, many on the forum purchase from her!!
    Yep, I saw that in another thread. I emailed yesterday and I'm going through the catalogue now.
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    I am not a scrollsaw expert but the blades seem to make a big difference to cutting performance. If they were metal cutting blades they probably had very little set on the teeth which could make them jamb in the wood lifting your workpiece and the tooth geometry may be different to what you want for wood.
    Hopefully the new ones will meet your expectations
    Yeah thats what i'm thinking. See what happens when i pull the trigger on some new blades.
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

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