Thread: Scrolling 3" thick... is it practical?

Skew 2" is doable just slow I have done 2" 3d stuff and it depends on the timber but dont push it too hard and you should be ok though it may depend on your saw
Pete

I suggest you use a skip tooth blade to help clear the swarf away as you cut.

Gill

I have done 2"+ redgum and used a blade with BIG teeth, even a piece of 1/8" bandsaw blade can be persuaded to fit into the blade holders, I have done that on my dewally, just don't expect tight turns if you choose this option.

Thanks fellas. I was a tad worried that I'd start and discover it wasn't doable.

A skip tooth, eh? Another one for the new tool queue.

You may be able to lessen the load by drilling the round end of the teardrops first, and then, just sawing out the pointy end. (Naval Term).

Buzza.

Originally Posted by Buzza

(Naval Term).

Buzza.

What do belly buttons have to do with it?
I'll take a bow for that if I don't get any stern looks

Originally Posted by Buzza

You may be able to lessen the load by drilling the round end of the teardrops first, and then, just sawing out the pointy end. (Naval Term).

I thought of that, but I'd rather avoid the sanding I always seem to end up with in cleaning up the tearout from my augers. One day I'll get around to sharpening 'em...

There's a new way of drilling where you drill most of the way through, and when the pointy bit of the auger just shows through, turn the piece over, and drill through from the other side. I won't be taking a bow for giving that out either.:eek:

Buzza.

Skew, it's pretty quick to touch up the spurs on an auger bit with a file, I managed to resurrect an oldie (about 1 1/8") this week by doing just that, as well as diamond stoning the cutting lips, & also "sharpening" the threads on the screw with a triangular file.

Cuts like a champ now, not bad for an old bit that had the sqaure drive for a brace (cut it off to fit the leccy drill). Cut 60 odd holes in oregon for my wip wood rack no probs.

The other option could be to do them with a spade bit, sharpen the outer edges with a chainsaw file so it has nice sharp spurs that'll give you a clean entry hole.


Cheers.................Sean

Skew, Watch your fingers.......lol I have cut 2" deep on my saw and it suppose to be capable of cutting 2-5/8". Smacked my fingers good cause I got them to close to the arm.....Definitely go with a skip tooth and the largest blade you can make the turns with....I would suggest a #7 or #9 if you can make the turns with a #9. Softer wood will help you with the thickness....Lots of clear tape to prevent burning. (bees wax on the blade will work also). Make sure your table is square to the blade and don't hurry..Good luck with this one....I know it will be slow going on the saw.....
Drilling the hole out first one way or another would be the easiest way to go....even if you did the hole smaller and then scrolled it to size....Taking your time you can shave wood with a scrollsaw blade...and smooth out roughness from dull bits...try it on a piece of scrap to see if you can do it...
Lin
As an after thought....If you end up cutting 1.75"...like you suggested as a possiblility....you will find that 1/4" less is much easier to cut thru and handle than 2" thick. You wouldn't think 1/4" makes much difference...but on a scrollsaw it seems to....show up in how fast you can feed your wood and making tighter turns....

Originally Posted by Buzza

There's a new way of drilling where you drill most of the way through, and when the pointy bit of the auger just shows through, turn the piece over, and drill through from the other side. I won't be taking a bow for giving that out either.:eek:

That's not the tear-out I mean, even a sacrificial piece underneath'll help prevent that. I'm talking about the bits "gnawing" their way through, ripping the end-grain instead of cutting a nice, smooth 'ole. I already know the cure, Scooter got it spot on: a good sharpen... but I've some 50 odd blunt bits queued up and I'm inherently lazy.

Watch your fingers.......lol I have cut 2" deep on my saw and it suppose to be capable of cutting 2-5/8". Smacked my fingers good cause I got them to close to the arm.....Definitely go with a skip tooth and the largest blade you can make the turns with....I would suggest a #7 or #9 if you can make the turns with a #9. Softer wood will help you with the thickness....Lots of clear tape to prevent burning. (bees wax on the blade will work also). Make sure your table is square to the blade and don't hurry..Good luck with this one....I know it will be slow going on the saw.....

Thanks for suggesting the tape/beeswax Lin. I've heard it mentioned a few times before but as it's something I haven't tried myself it's something I'd forget about until the next time I hear it. I'll definitely give it a try this time.

I am a tad worried about my table; as you know, the saw has been around at an engineer mates' for some mods so I can cut goblets on it. He's barely started, no spare time... except for cutting away the table mounts! :eek: I've jury-rigged a mount from timber packers: it seems to be sitting square but I'm not sure how it'll stand up to the vibration. [fingers Xed] Hopefully there'll be no disasters involving fingers in the offing!

As an after thought....If you end up cutting 1.75"...like you suggested as a possiblility....you will find that 1/4" less is much easier to cut thru and handle than 2" thick. You wouldn't think 1/4" makes much difference...but on a scrollsaw it seems to....show up in how fast you can feed your wood and making tighter turns....

You're right: I wouldn't have expected it to make any noticable difference. But you're the expert and I'll quite happily take your word for it. That's the minimum thickness I can work with for this piece but if it makes it easier (read: less likely for me to screw up! ) well, who'm I to argue?

I'd go with the thinner wood.... if your table isn't 100% spot on square and if you push just a little too hard your pieces after slicing won't match... the bottom cut out will be smaller.
I've cut lots of 3/4" puzzles and even then if the table was just a tiny bit off things won't fit... with my Delta I don't think I'd even try 2".

good luck
Juvy

Skew, you might want to track down a recent thread by Lignum about a table he has mounted separately to his scrollsaw.

He did it to give a bigger working surface with no vibration, could be good for yours with the table mounts gone AWOL


Cheers..................Sean