Thread: Starting out

G Day Pheonex

I am a bit like you I have backed away from turning partly because my back isn't standing up to it and partly because after so many years I am getting a bit sick of it.

Scrolling always cought my eye and a few years ago I bought my first scroll saw. I now have a tru pro saw. I have been using it for about eighteen months now and I am very pleased with it. I did buy hegna clamps top and bottom and consider these a must. At least the top one. There are a couple of other pins that want to slip out but that is a very minor problem. I think you will be well pleased if you buy this saw. Value for money is very high.

I am amazed at what can be done with a scroll saw. I have always wanted to make a dovetail box and after buying jigs etc I failed. One of my first projects with the scroll saw was a dovetail box and I gave it 10 out of 10 when finished.

The saw has many possobilitys such as inlay, intarsia, box making, signs, model making. ( my next project is a Cobb& Co coach) I am very impressed that all sorts of things can be made with very little wood and expense. By the way scroll saws will cut our Aust hardwoods very well provided you don't push past the boundrys of thickness and speed.

Before you sell your wood working gear I would suggest that you look at what you can use with the scrollsaw such as. Band saw, table saw, sanders, thicknessers etc. They all have a place in a scroll saw workshop. I still have my lathe and use in many projects.

I hope you go ahead and that you have as much enjoyment as I am having

John

Sick and tired of all the bl...y mess even with dust buckets,vacuums ,its hard to work in a double garage and not get sawdust flying everywhere and I am cheesed of at having to dust every square inch of the place when I am finished,before I can apply some sort of finish and not look like its been in a duststorm.
Perhaps some books could be a start as I dont think there are many tutors around to mentor you esp. not at my age.
Any recommendations?
Just downsized to one of our investment properties so there is not a big improvement in space in fact may have less.
Had to get out of the city was driving me bonkers!

I agree. The dust does get to you after a while. Scrolling still gives dust but nothing like other types of woodworking. Turning seemed to cause hugh amounts of dust and I always had complaints from my other half when it found it's way into the house and I don't blame her.

If you are having dust problems with finishes why don't you try oil. There are many different types on the market and they are very forgiving. Try to pass by those that go off when opened. They also bring up the colour very well. At present I'm using boiled linseed oil with turps added. One coat and 24 hours to dry. Then 1 coat of french polish with 1/2 hour to dry then finish with one of the bees wax polishes. It'e easy cheap and comes up well

John

I'm sure if you do a search in this forum you'll find lots of "how to get started on the scroll saw" and lots and lots of hints, tips etc...

One thing tho..... I don't know about other folks, but depending on what you scroll ( I do a lot on 3/4" pine) you can still generate heaps of sawdust.

I saw and drill in a spare bedroom in the house.... hung a dustfilter under the ceiling.... still end up with dust all over the house... I do the real sanding ( with machine) outside... but some of the hand sanding occasionally gets done on the kitchen table.... sawdust in your coffee replaces sugar! Good for digestion too!

With a shop vac you can attach to your saw ( maybe with muffler) and a dust filter you should be fine.

Juvy

Many thanks to all for the information given in this thread.

I am thinking of entering scrolling because of my back, too, Red Gum.

Of course, Juvy is the mine of information on scrolling. Thanks again, Juvy.

Back again Pheonix.

I tried to find Oak Flats on the map but failed. If you don't mind me asking I would like to know where it is?

John

Not sure what brands or materials you have available to you. I have turned to solid surface material for many reasons, but no sanding is real nice. I get it in several solid colors in 1/4" sheets from a local manufacturer. I was shown a technique to make it look like woodgrain, but haven't tried it.

Originally Posted by Red Gum

Back again Pheonix.

I tried to find Oak Flats on the map but failed. If you don't mind me asking I would like to know where it is?

John

Oak Flats

HERE
then type in OAK FLATS in space provided

Originally Posted by Pheonix

I am off loading all my woodworking gear,and am seriously thinking of taking up scrolling,I am tired of all the sawdust and crap with general woodworking.
Any pointers towards setting up for scrolling would be gratefully received,am thinking trupro machine for a start.

You won't regret it, it's a whole lot of fun! I started with Spielman's books, they are brilliant. I also invested in a Hegner and haven't looked back. An expensive investment (although hubby & brother went halves for a b'day prezzy way back) but well worth it. Have been scrolling off and on for 20 years and the ole Hegner still battles on.

Depending on what you're going to be making you only need basics, like a bandsaw, disc sander, drills, orbital sander, and a router could all be a good start to getting you on your way. Other people may use extra but that's all I have ever needed.

Have fun!

tweak, thanks for an interesting post. Juvy here has helped me much, as she does many others, and has told me how to do jointing with the scroll saw.

Would you tel me, please, if you use the scroll saw or router for finger joints, or both?

Originally Posted by Old farmer

tweak, thanks for an interesting post. Juvy here has helped me much, as she does many others, and has told me how to do jointing with the scroll saw.

Would you tel me, please, if you use the scroll saw or router for finger joints, or both?

Thank you "old farmer" I'm sorry, I don't know your name.

My boxes are usually heart-shaped, oval or round so I haven't used finger joints.
If I've made rectangular or square boxes they have been reasonably small so I have rebated the joints.

At one time I did use finger joints and from memory used the scrollsaw but I don't think it produced a very accurate fit. I'm sure a router would be a better proposition.

Hope this helps

I've done really good fingerjoints on the scroll saw. Don't like any of the big noisy machines that can take off fingers...
If you prepare them right you won't have any trouble at all.
Don't remember where it is now... but someone ask about it before and I posted a pattern for this? if anyone else wants it let me know and I'll see if I can find it again.

Most of the time tho I make jointless boxes... much easier and quicker

Juvy

I'm attaching a couple of boxes we made... one is 3/4" pine and the other a small box made from elm about 8mm thick - if I remember right... it was a b-day present for my Dad in Germany.

Thanks Juvy and what beautiful work!

I'm fascinated in the way you managed to do fingerjoints with a scrollsaw. Would love to know how if I may ask? You've made it look so easy in your pictures.

Also, what are jointless boxes?

judy

Judy...... YOU make jointless boxes...... cut in one piece.... no joints I much prefer doing those because there is a limitless amount of shapes one can make.
Only problem is the size limitation which you can partly overcome by gluing "rings" together.

The fingerjoints come in handy when you want a bigger box then you'd think you can do on the scroll saw.
It's realy not hard at all, you have to be accurate ( but in a pinch there's wood filler! lol )
I'm attaching a pattern I got from a magazine a couple of years back. You can easily adapt that to the size you need. The pattern tells you where to cut either on the line ( splitting it) or leave it ( cutting right beside it) to get that perfect fit.

Hope this helps

Juvy