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Thread: Sticking on Stencils
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27th November 2017, 04:29 PM #1
Sticking on Stencils
Hey Folks,
So i've cleaned up the shed a bit, and now have my new (to me) scroll saw sitting on my workbench.
I've put together a quick stencil that i wanted to have a crack at scrolling out, but it just occurred to me, I have no idea how to attach it to the wood (just going to use ply to practice on) so it won't move.
So I thought i'd open it up to the floor and see how you all stick stencils on...
I've done some googling and a lot of people seem to cover the piece in painters tape or packing tape, then use spray adhesive to stick the stencil to the tape, and another layer of tape over the stencil before starting to cut... is that the norm? It seems a little fiddly (and expensive, have you seen the cost of a roll of painters tape?!?!?)... any other tricks?
Cheers
DibsComing Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985
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27th November 2017, 04:37 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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A handy product is 3M repositionable spray adhesive sprayed on the stencil.
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27th November 2017, 07:53 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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I've used painters tape and watered down aquadhere. Get the painters tape that has a 14 day span I think it is, gives you plenty of time to remove it, if you're held up at any stage. It's only expensive if you're doing a large area.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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27th November 2017, 10:35 PM #4Senior Member
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I glue the pattern straight onto the wood by spraying both the pattern & the wood & using a spray adhesive from the local spotlight store. You can easily remove the pattern when finished by applying turps with a brush & leaving for a few minutes.The pattern will just peel off. Then wipe any glue left on the pattern with a turps soaked rag. Cheers Peter.
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28th November 2017, 09:15 AM #5
Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try a few out and see what works for me.
Another question, I was playing on the JET last night, i changed the blade (pinned blade, got them free when i bought the saw) and adjusted the tension (not sure if i did it enough or too much) and when i was cutting through the timber, hardwood or some description i'm not up to speed with identifying species yet, it felt and sounded like the blade was skipping/jumping. Would this be a blade tension issue, speed setting, feed speed or a combination of all three? admittedly i only was on it for 10 minutes or so before i had to put my son to bed...
It was almost like the blade would jam and the pin would lift off the anchor point briefly until the up/down stroke caught the pin again...Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985
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28th November 2017, 09:16 AM #6
For a quick job I also use a mix of painters tape and Spray adhesive, but is depends on the finish I am going to apply as the use of tape and spray adhesive my require some clean-up.
Of late I have been printing my patterns onto A4 sheets of adhesive label paper and apply straight to the material. It just saves me time with the tape and mess with the spray adhesive. The cost is also equivalent to the spray and tape.Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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28th November 2017, 11:07 AM #7
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5th February 2018, 08:49 AM #8Novice
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Hi Dibs.
I use clear contact on the wood and spray adhesive on the back of the pattern. The clear contact leaves no residue on the wood and it all peels off very easily.
Clear contact costs about $5.00 for a 15m roll at Officeworks and you can do a lot of projects with it.
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5th February 2018, 01:53 PM #9Novice
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Hi Dibs.
In addition to my earlier reply. I make sure to get a good even coat of spray adhesive on the back of my pattern and I don't let it dry to much (Less than a minute) so I can get the air out from under it. I use a 100mm wide (for large projects) or 50mm wide (for small), plastic scraper to get the air from under the clear contact before applying pattern and then the same for my pattern.
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5th February 2018, 02:27 PM #10
Thanks for the advice.
I haven't been able to fire up the JET lately as i'm waiting on new blade clamps. The ones in there weren't gripping the blade well, and the hex screws were basically threaded.... joys of buying 2nd hand.
I've got some new clamps coming through from the UK, and i'm going to buy some T handle allan keys. I just hope the hex screws that come with the new clamps are better quality...Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985
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