Adhesive for glass to particle board.

[Mychael]

What is recommended to use to glue a piece of plate glass onto a bit of particle board?

I've just bought a bit of plate for a level surface and want to stick it onto a piece of board.

Edit: I've since gone with hot glue but would still be pleased to get suggestions for future reference.

[HazzaB]

Hey Michael,

If I was gluing I would use Silicon, preferably SIKAFLEX, as we use it in the Boat Yard here, and that stuff will stick anything,
But I would probably cut some hardwood edging and glue and screw that around the edges (Picture Frame Style) so that If the Chipboard ever got wet it wouldn't go al wobbly and maybe break the Glass. then maybe a bead of silicon around the edges to stop any water or oil getting to the chipboard.

Just my Thoughts

HazzaB

[Mychael]

Thanks, yes sikaflex is good stuff. Used it when I owned a boat. found it went off in the tube pretty quickly though once opened.
I did think of garden variety Silastic but I did not have any and the glue gun was handy soooo,,,,,.
I could however follow your suggestion and edge with a bit of timber and seal with silastic although it's safe in a shed weatherwise but I guess if I'm useing any water on the glass I could run into trouble.

[crowie]

G'Day Michael,
While "SIKAFLEX" is a good brand, it's top shelf and thus expensive.
I'm reasonable sure you could use any "natural cure" clear silicon to stick the glass to the chipboard.
Cheers, Crowie

[RossM]

Sika make a wide variety of sealant products. Most are not silicone, but polyurethane - including all the Sikaflex range. (SikaSil is silicone). The polyurethane will probably work better than silicone & is widely used in the auto trade for windscreen sealing & adhesion. Silaflex also used in high-rise facades like glass where adhesion performance & safety are paramount.

All in all a Sikaflex is good choice. Bunnings sell SikaFlex at reasonable price - I think 11C at about $12 for a caulking gun tube.

Silicones are not really a good long term sealant if you don't have mechanical compression (e.g sandwhiched between two surfaces - it works best as like a gasket with rivets or bolts etc to compress it) - the adhesive quality is only temporary. However silicone is considered more durable than polyurethane. Polyurethane makes a pretty permanent bond. However it will have difficulty sticking some plastics such as polyethelenes.

[ravna]

Me...I wouldn't bother sticking it down, on my setup the 10mm glass just sits on a piece of non slip mat.

Cheers

John M

[Robson Valley]

I did the same as John M = wrapped masking tape around the edge, white card for a backing to see what I'm doing. In my case, I use the plate glass as a palette for acrylic paints.

[Mychael]

Thanks for the replies. The other reason I set it on a bit of baord was to make it easier to pick up and hold onto.
The piece of glass I have is 8mm.

I also picked up a granite chopping board from ALDI's for a good price. It's pretty flat but not as flat as the plate glass.

[Mychael]

Update: The hot glue job did not last, since my post the glass has come loose off the board. Took no effort to remove it completly.

So experimenting now I've re-attached using liquid nails 'high strength, construction adhesive'. We'll see how that goes.

[RossM]

From experience, you will find that the construction adhesive will dry over time & let go. The glass also needs to be very clean before you start - wipe it down with Acetone to get all traces of dirt, moisture & oils off it.

If you want a permanent bond, you should use SikaFlex & Sika primer on the glass (Sika Aktivator)

[soundman]

If you are making a surface plate and you want it flat....you do not want any adhesive that is viscous.

because as you press it down the glass WILL flex and distort.

In my opinion the best option would be marine epoxy with only a small amount of filler added.

spread it out on both surfaces ( you will have scrubbed the glass with thinnner and let it dry first) the present them together and make a rubbed joint.....the excess epoxy will run out and glass will remain flatt.

AND

yep lots of people do not grasp the difference between polyeurathane and silicon.

just because it is a sealer in a tube don't make it silicon...thank god.

cheers

[Mychael]

Originally Posted by soundman

because as you press it down the glass WILL flex and distort.
cheers

It's 8mm plate and only domestic chopping board size. You sure it would flex?

[soundman]

Damn straight.

Glass is nowhere near as rigid as some people believe it to be.

If you are being that fussy about a surface plate, ya want it to remain flat.

BTW...if it is 8mm why are you gluing it down to a piece of crappy MDF.......if you use water on the plate the MDF will not be happy.

cheers

[Mychael]

Originally Posted by soundman

BTW...if it is 8mm why are you gluing it down to a piece of crappy MDF.......if you use water on the plate the MDF will not be happy.

cheers

A couple of reasons.
MDF seems to generally be pretty flat to start with and I'm currently useing W&D paper but the 'wet' is Kerosene not water, the paper seems to last longer that way.
I've edged the MDF with hardwood and put a thin bead of silastic around the edge so should be reasonably sound.

It was a little try project, if it does not last next time I'll build a better moustrap as it were.

[Moe in QLD]

Originally Posted by Mychael

the 'wet' is Kerosene not water

ok, I'm confused
I had some ideas until I read this line

Can you please let us know what the project is, so the suggested solution will suit?

cheers