Thread: Best glue for veneer
8th Jul 2005, 05:25 PM #1
Best glue for veneer
Starting to regret this coffee table restoration.
Got bookmatched oak veneer, applied a coat of PVA and laid on veneer.
Full of air pockets despite careful laying down and expelling what I thought was air, applied blocks and weights and it still came up as wrinkled as an old army blanket.
Any better suggestions?
I managed to get the veneer off and remove most of the PVA although I still have plenty of new stuff left over.
Should I wet the veneer first to make it limp, use contact or hide glue.
Bloody table :mad:Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
8th Jul 2005 05:25 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Advertising world
8th Jul 2005, 05:50 PM #2Originally Posted by Iain
Wet it and use hide glue so you can iron out the air pockets as you apply it.
8th Jul 2005, 05:57 PM #3
Hide glue is the best way to go.
But you can use PVA if applied to both surfaces and then let it dry. When dry iron the veneer onto the substrate. (You can also do this with hide glue)Regards, Bob Thomas
8th Jul 2005, 07:51 PM #4
Heres some Veenering tips n techniques from Marksey:
Also if your interested & have MSN Messenger I can send you some Video tips on Veneering!!!
.......................................PM me if interested
REgards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
8th Jul 2005, 09:08 PM #5
What Echnidna said, or apply a coat of good quality contact to the veneer, let it dry completely, wet the veneer with a 50% water/metho mix and press between some white paper ( like news paper but without the print as the print will stain ) with flat surfaces to flatten the veneer if there is wrinkles. Once the veneer is flat, apply contact to both the veneer and the surface to be veneered. Once the tackyness has gone, lay some plastic or brown paper on the surface, lay veneer on top and lign up. Spray some more metho/water mix on the veneer. Pull the paper out a bit and roll the veneer in that area on with a roller making sure there are no bubbles. Pull the paper/plastic a bit more and roll on the veneer. Repeat the above till the job is complete.
If you need to cut veneer cross grain before application, do it after you have applied the contact and it has dried. The rubbery contact on the back of the veneer will keep it from splitting. Dried PVA will do the same.
Another way of application is with PVA applied on both the veneer and surface, allow to dry completely. Then lay the veneer on and start ironing on the veneer on the highest setting on the iron. Follow the iron with a piece of wood on edge by rubbing it on the veneer to press it down while the glue is still hot.
If you still get air bubbles, its your technique thats to blame!
10th Jul 2005, 06:37 PM #6
Thanks for the replies, and sorry for the delay but IO have just come back from two days of horsing (again).
Will try the iron on PVA during the week.
Thanks for the link Lou, will have a better look later.Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
By Bob Smalser in forum GLUEReplies: 8Last Post: 16th Dec 2005, 10:45 AM
By R12chard in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 3Last Post: 10th Apr 2005, 05:51 AM
By chook in forum GLUEReplies: 3Last Post: 12th Nov 2004, 07:51 PM
By Zed in forum GLUEReplies: 3Last Post: 16th Feb 2004, 04:49 PM
By ubeaut in forum GLUEReplies: 1Last Post: 12th Nov 1999, 03:01 AM