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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Northern Beaches
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    71

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    I'm a cabinetmaker and joiner and deal with veneers almost everyday.

    I can say that from my experience it's not worth the hassle in glueing the veneer on yourself when there are companies that will do this for you on whatever substrate you'd like with a proper press.

    Every time I have contacted veneer on it sticks very well but as soon as I put a polyurethane clear sealer coat or topcoat on it the thinners in the paint lifts the veneer off due to eating away the contact. This gives you a bubble effect and it is not redeemable after this has happened.

    If I have to do it now I use a vacuum press and either pva for small pieces or a 2 pac epoxy for large area stuff or whole sheets.
    As I said above it will be better and more worth while in the long run to get it layed up by a board manufacturer in the thicknesses you need.
    That's what we do and that's my opinion.
    Hope this info helps your decision on how to go about it.

    Cheers
    Dirk.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Age
    64
    Posts
    212

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    Would hide glue be better?

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

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    almost certainly -- it will allow you a much extended working time

    but you may wish to readup on how hammer veneering is done with hide glue
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Perth, AUS
    Posts
    6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk_Pittwater View Post

    Every time I have contacted veneer on it sticks very well but as soon as I put a polyurethane clear sealer coat or topcoat on it the thinners in the paint lifts the veneer off due to eating away the contact. This gives you a bubble effect and it is not redeemable after this has happened.
    Bugger. I appreciate your expert advice - I'm a fair way down the road in this project - perhaps will try a water based varnish (but that will probably swell the veneer??) or maybe another type of topcoat (open to all advice!). The vacuum option is not really available - not ready to invest any more in this equipment at the moment. Will do some small test pieces and keep my fingers crossed!
    As said, I really appreciate this expert advice!

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Northern Beaches
    Posts
    71

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Lighty View Post
    Bugger. I appreciate your expert advice - I'm a fair way down the road in this project - perhaps will try a water based polyurethane (but that will probably swell the veneer??) or maybe another topcoat. The vacuum option is not really available - not ready to invest any more in this equipment at the moment. Will do some small test pieces and keep my fingers crossed!
    As said, I really appreciate this expert advice!
    Waterbased poly will be fine to use.

    I was just reading what I wrote last night in my tired state and I think it came across that you CAN'T contact and poly it at all.
    This is not true and sorry if I lead you to thinking this. As I do a lot of veneer work and we always need it asap the contact is a no go for us. If you were to contact it and leave it to dry for a decent amount of time say about a week in the cold weather it will work but when you go to poly it you'd need to spray a really light coat of sealer or topcoat first to seal the veneer so that when you lay on the other coats it won't penetrate through to the contact.

    Hope this is more clear.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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