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  1. #16
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    Do experts need to clean excess glue?

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  3. #17
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    Aug 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrism3 View Post
    Do experts need to clean excess glue?
    Yes, there will pretty much always be some squeezeout, the amount just gets smaller as you get the feel for how much you need to use. Besides, I'd much rather clean up excess than have a joint fail from too little.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Besides, I'd much rather clean up excess than have a joint fail from too little.
    Couldn't agree more, and I'm not expert, but taping over exposed areas that don't need epoxy would be a good start, taking the tape off just before the epoxy sets fully would also help.

  5. #19
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    Jun 2006
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    Coomba Park, Forster, NSW 2428
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    If I use any glue for the first time - obviously research comes first then I get a scrap piece of the timber being used and smear some of the selected glue on two parts.
    The next step is twofold - 1: whilst it is wet & not set, try various liquids and don't forget on the glue container normally there is a section that goes - "Cleaning hands after use - Turps or Kerosene etc". This is normally a good clue to the base liquid.
    - 2: On the piece that you let really set - get an old hacksaw blade about 70mm long will suffice, get an oil stone (medium coarseness) rub the plain edge (teeth edge uppermost) until you get two keen edges on the blade then use it like a scraper to take the finest undetectable scraping of wood off and note what effect you are left with.
    Sometimes it is a combination of the wood and glue reaction; other times the stain disappears.
    See how you go.
    Tony

  6. #20
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    Jun 2012
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    Dungog
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    Thanks all for input, very interesting and informative discussion, with a lot of practical experience.
    What the forum is all about.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Meths (alcohol) also cleans up resin over flow. Cheaper and safer than acetone.

    Harry, I would not use epoxy for joints. The ideal glue is one that allows a joint to be repaired down the line. The best in this regard is hide glue. Try Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. The nice thing about this is that it cleans up in water, and does not leave stains. It is also plenty strong.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Hi Derek,
    A quick question.
    I'm considering using epoxy on some chair joints which you have advised against in this post.
    Though I remember your Wegner chair build.
    I checked and you used epoxy for that.
    Is this then a "horses for courses" scenario or did you use it for a different reason.
    I'm also considering the titebond hide glue.
    my chairs are replicas of Charles Rennie Macintosh's chairs for the Willow tea rooms.
    I'd appreciate your input.

    Cheers

    Frank
    Last edited by mattocks; 12th January 2018 at 01:04 PM. Reason: additional question

  8. #22
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Hi Frank

    The chair to which you refer did have a special situation. The legs were indeed glued with epoxy. The mortice and tenon joints involved were extremely difficult to shape (by hand), and I could not allow any gaps to remain as these would have permitted movement, and any movement would have promoted wear. Epoxy was used for its gap filling. All other joinery on the chair (such as the chair back and arms) were glued with hide glue.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  9. #23
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    Jul 2010
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    melbourne
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    Thanks Derek, very helpful.
    I'm in a similar situation so want a bit of gap filling.

    Thanks again

    Frank

  10. #24
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    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Hi Frank
    to be truly gap filling, epoxy needs to be thickened with a filler. Wood flour is what i have used in the past.
    The amount of filler can be a little through to a lot depending on how viscus you want the glue to be.
    The base epoxy should also have a longish open time. The stuff I've been using -- System Three Medium hardener -- has an open time of 30 minutes at 25 degrees C. Given the time of year, you may want to stay away from WestSystems 205 Hardener.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Hi Frank
    to be truly gap filling, epoxy needs to be thickened with a filler
    Depends what epoxy you're using. While the runny stuff needs fillers, naturally thick products like Techniglue are gap filling straight from the tin.

  12. #26
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    For thickening, I have used micro balloons.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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