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26th September 2017, 06:42 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Do experts need to clean excess glue?
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26th September 2017 06:42 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th September 2017, 06:53 PM #17Taking a break
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29th September 2017, 07:44 AM #18GOLD MEMBER
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1st January 2018, 10:58 AM #19Coomba chamfer
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If I use any glue for the first time - obviously research comes first then I get a scrap piece of the timber being used and smear some of the selected glue on two parts.
The next step is twofold - 1: whilst it is wet & not set, try various liquids and don't forget on the glue container normally there is a section that goes - "Cleaning hands after use - Turps or Kerosene etc". This is normally a good clue to the base liquid.
- 2: On the piece that you let really set - get an old hacksaw blade about 70mm long will suffice, get an oil stone (medium coarseness) rub the plain edge (teeth edge uppermost) until you get two keen edges on the blade then use it like a scraper to take the finest undetectable scraping of wood off and note what effect you are left with.
Sometimes it is a combination of the wood and glue reaction; other times the stain disappears.
See how you go.
Tony
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2nd January 2018, 09:10 PM #20Senior Member
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Thanks all for input, very interesting and informative discussion, with a lot of practical experience.
What the forum is all about.
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12th January 2018, 01:02 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Derek,
A quick question.
I'm considering using epoxy on some chair joints which you have advised against in this post.
Though I remember your Wegner chair build.
I checked and you used epoxy for that.
Is this then a "horses for courses" scenario or did you use it for a different reason.
I'm also considering the titebond hide glue.
my chairs are replicas of Charles Rennie Macintosh's chairs for the Willow tea rooms.
I'd appreciate your input.
Cheers
FrankLast edited by mattocks; 12th January 2018 at 01:04 PM. Reason: additional question
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12th January 2018, 01:35 PM #22
Hi Frank
The chair to which you refer did have a special situation. The legs were indeed glued with epoxy. The mortice and tenon joints involved were extremely difficult to shape (by hand), and I could not allow any gaps to remain as these would have permitted movement, and any movement would have promoted wear. Epoxy was used for its gap filling. All other joinery on the chair (such as the chair back and arms) were glued with hide glue.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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12th January 2018, 01:47 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Derek, very helpful.
I'm in a similar situation so want a bit of gap filling.
Thanks again
Frank
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12th January 2018, 05:16 PM #24
Hi Frank
to be truly gap filling, epoxy needs to be thickened with a filler. Wood flour is what i have used in the past.
The amount of filler can be a little through to a lot depending on how viscus you want the glue to be.
The base epoxy should also have a longish open time. The stuff I've been using -- System Three Medium hardener -- has an open time of 30 minutes at 25 degrees C. Given the time of year, you may want to stay away from WestSystems 205 Hardener.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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12th January 2018, 05:28 PM #25Taking a break
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12th January 2018, 09:20 PM #26
For thickening, I have used micro balloons.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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