Thread: glue ??

I use either urethane glue or cross linked pva. (usually the pva)

Just so as I'm on the same wavelength, what do you require glue for?
I've turned heaps of handles & never once used glue of any type!
(Unless of course your'e laminating very small timbers to give you diameter).
regards Sandman.

As echidna says, just go for standard cheep PVA. It works fantasticaly well

I normally use good PVA or, if using it for something else at the same time, 2-part epoxy.

Glue?? :eek:
This enquiry supports my firmly held belief that it is absolutely imperative that those taking up wood turning should get, at least, some basic instruction.
One of the first things taught by most instructors is how to make a chisel handle. It is an excellent exercise in that you get to use most of the basic woodturning skills. It is also much more satisfying than buying a ready made handle in that you can add your own individual touches such as grooves and rings making each chisel unique and enabling easy recognition when it’s lying on the bench half buried in shavings.
Take a piece of stock. I prefer English ash, but any close, straight grained wood will do, approx 50mm square and of the required length, better to be too long than too short. (About 300-400mm allowing for 30mm or so waste.) Fix one end in chuck (Most chucks will hold square wood quite satisfactorily.) Centre the other end on a live drive in the tail stock. Drill hole to suit with Jacobs chuck inserted in tail-stock. If the tang is tapered you may have to drill the first half of the hole with a larger bit than the second half.You may also have to grind the edges off a square tang to ensure a snug fit. Replace live drive cone in tailstock and bring up to support the end. This will ensure that the hole for the tang is true. Screw in too tight and the end will split. Round your wood with a roughing gouge. Turn down end (tailstock) to take a ferrule. These can be purchased, however a piece of copper pipe of suitable diameter can be cut to length (20-25ml)
Make sure the ferrule is a snug fit. Fit the ferrule over the end and return tailstock to support piece whilst turning to the desired shape. Using parting tool turn down to about 10ml diam. at drive end and sand and polish. Part off and hand sand and polish the end of the handle. Push the chisel into the handle then wack it smartly on the butt with a wooden mallet. If your chisel has a flat or square tang makes some small wedges and tap in between the flat side and the curved side of the hole. If the chisel works loose a smart tap with the mallet will tighten it up again. You can use epoxy if you want however that usually means that you will be unable to use the handle again.
(If you don’t like the above method several authors have published instructions on this including Richard Raffin in “Turning Wood” on which the above is loosely based.)

hey jack you should write a book
the p+n tool i just received comes with a ROUND not tapered tang (which btw mr raffan suggests gluing) and as this i my first attempt at this i thought i would take some advice
don't wan't the handle coming adrift while the wife is at the lathe
thanks to everyone for the help

glue steel to wood with either epoxy or urethane glue

This is the way I fit round tangs in handles.

Grind a flat on one side of the tang. Grind a couple of small grooves across the flat.

Drill hole of tang diameter in handle, turn handle using hole as centre as per Jacko instructions.

Mix up car fibreglass body filler (bog) fill hole with same whilst wet and fit blade to handle. Holding tool vertical with handle down drive blade home on lathe bed. Clean up excess filler. Jobs done in 5-10 minutes.

Never had one come loose.

P&N tools (alone amongst any manufacturer I believe?) actually make un-handled tools which are designed to assist you with putting into a handle. You might wonder why all manufacturers don't but that's another question. P&N either have round section shanks perfectly dimensioned for a standard diameter drill or flat bar shanks which have the corners minutely turned on a lathe so that the flat bar shanks (or to more exact tangs) are actually also perfectly dimensioned for a standard drill and best of all they are parallel tangs not the 19th century tapered tangs found on nearly every other tool. This means it's a doddle to fit either round bar or flat bar tangs - they slip perfectly into the hole drilled in the handle provided of course you are happy to use say an epoxy to seat the tang in the handle. Why do I know this? For years I used a series of standard imperial drills to mount tools and then P&N quietly switched to metric tangs so I had to invest in a 12mm drill where I had been using a 1/2" previously.

BTW this is one of quite a few unique design attributes for P&N. Pinned ferrules, fully rounded skew bottoms, 8mm bar for standard 24mm skews and, one of the most useful tools available, their detail gouge - far more useful than the standard spindle gouge INHO. Do I sound like a fan? I just wish they would run a mill down the flute of their 40mm roughing gouge!!!!

Three essentials for making handles - firstly, drill the hole for the tool tang early and re-mount for final turning using the hole for perfect centering, secondly, make sure your ferrule is very tight and has to be belted on and finally the grain for the handle either has to be interlocked or has to run the length of the handle and not be oblique or the handle will likely split.
Mike Jefferys - The Wood Works Sydney

With gouges I don't usually bother with a ferrule. The turning forces drive the tang into the handle.

Never had a problem.