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Thread: What glue - polyuthrane?
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16th January 2006, 10:20 PM #1
What glue - polyuthrane?
Spoke to Selleys today - they suggested Aquahere Durabond - a polyuthrane. Quick setting time - 10 minutes - but I can handle it by clamping 2 lots of two boards and then joining these together. This is on the sugar gum. Would that work?
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16th January 2006, 11:23 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Originally Posted by robri
This PU has an "open" time of 10 minutes. That is, you have up to about 10 minutes to get your joint/s glued and clamped. Clamping time should be at least 4 hours and drying time at least over night.
I'd suggest if you haven't used PU before that you do a few glue-ups of offcuts to get the "feel" of the stuff. You will find at first that you use too much. It is actually difficult to use too little. The surplus foams out of the joint. Don't try to clean off the wet foam, that will only make a mess. The foam cleans off fairly easily with a scraper when dry.
Kind regards
Brian
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17th January 2006, 08:07 AM #3
If you want longer open time with polyurethane glue then use Titebond Polyurethane, you get up to 20 min depending on the temperature.
DarrylF has been using Selleys Poly after being a fan of the Titebond stuff and rates it, Selleys, as good stuff.
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17th January 2006, 09:33 AM #4Deceased
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Hi robri
I was (and still) using "poly" glue for a few projects which involeved panel gluing and carcasses. I am using 30-min open time version and it gives me so much time to adjust everything. I can even straight up uneven plates.
It is indeed written that it takes 3~4 Hrs of clamping time and total drying time of 24 Hrs but I started sanding 2~3 Hrs after unclamping (not recommended) and everything was o.k.
Get ready to get black fingers if you touch it (they recommend using latex gloves but I ignor it).
If you want to clean the squeeze out and/or your hands, you can use "nitro" if your skin is not too sensitive, otherwise the black stains will disappear within 2~3 days.
Its also "gap filling" (cosmetics only)
I don't know the "sugar gum" but with oak it performed very good.
regards
niki
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17th January 2006, 02:30 PM #5rrich Guest
Btw
I have been using Elmer's brand of Polyurethane glue. (It has a blue bull on the label.) The major advantage that I have noticed is that the stuff does not harden in the bottle. I have some that was opened about a 18 months ago and it still flows.
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17th January 2006, 05:00 PM #6Originally Posted by rrich
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17th January 2006, 05:19 PM #7
Thanks everyone for your help - I will try on a few scraps as suggested and see how I go.
After all the good advice I think that I can work around it although the 10 minutes still worries me as I have never timed what time it takes me to glue up. I will do a dry run first.
Thanks again - but still post if you have any thoughts.
Rob
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17th January 2006, 05:19 PM #8
Thanks everyone for your help - I will try on a few scraps as suggested and see how I go.
After all the good advice I think that I can work around it although the 10 minutes still worries me as I have never timed what time it takes me to glue up. I will do a dry run first.
Thanks again - but still post if you have any thoughts.
Rob
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17th January 2006, 06:19 PM #9Deceased
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Hi robri
You can read more about polyurethane glue hear http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/All_about_polyurethane_glues.html http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive98/4_29ringstuck.html
You can also gooogle "gorila glue".
I think that its better for you to select the longer open time glue (20 or 30 min) because the only diff is the open time, otherwise, the clamping time and curing time are the same but it gives me much more time to correct my mistakes.
BTW, this glue is water proof and its perfect for outdoor projects (all this picnic staff).
regards
niki
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17th January 2006, 06:28 PM #10
Hi Rob,
It's always good practice to do a dry run first, checking clamping positions & angles, squareness (as appropriate), and time it. I just a bit over the "open time", give it a couple of goes until you are confident that you can meet tie time target, else break the blue up into a seriew of small units.
Cheers!
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