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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Default Glue for non-porous wood?

    I picked up some really gorgeous blackbutt at Urban Salvage in Melbourne on Saturday that was recycled tongue and groove ripped out of an old building. Cut the sides off so I could edge glue to make a nice box for a wine casket...anyway, glued it up with Titebond II and after leaving for the requisite amount of time (30+ mins) I removed the clamps and it all just fell apart. The glue was not penetrating the edge grain at all. The wood does have a slightly glossy finish and is shiny to the touch...not like fresh sawn wood at all. The edge feels glossy also where I cut it...almost like it had not been cut at all, if that makes sense. It didn't have that type of surface you usually get after feeding it thru the table saw.

    Is this a lost cause? Or is there a method I can edge glue these and salvage this lovely wood that will look amazing as a nice box.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    melbourne
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    Default

    It just occurs to me...is this a weather thing? Coz its so cold the glue isnt curing? Maybe leaving overnight would fix it?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Default

    Try Titebond 3 instead. Polyurethane glues tend to work better than PVA with waxy and close-grained timbers.

  5. #4
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    Mar 2015
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    melbourne
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    Default

    Thanks, mate. Have reclamped to leave overnight and if I have no luck will try Titebond III tomorrow. "Waxy" - that's just the word I was looking for, but couldnt think of!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Canberra
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    Default

    Wipe with acetone just before you do your glue up, too.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
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    1,645

    Default

    when u unclamped and it all fell apart, were the glued edges still wet and juicy? 30 minutes or even an hour in cold weather like we have atm isn't enough for pva to make a good bond. as a general rule, I clamp up in the evening so I can let it sit overnight letting the glue do its thing. if u leave the squeeze out alone, you can use that as a visual, or even a poke your finger in, gauge as to whether the glue has set well enough. dont worry too much about the thicker sections of squeeze out, on sunday night i glued up some legs at midnight, woke up at 1pm and still the thicker sections were that opaque yellow TBII colour and plenty juicy, the edges were transparent and mostly cured.

    hard timbers require big clamping forces. try to max out your clamps if you can, stop and back it off a bit if it starts to compress the timber.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    melbourne
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    Default

    They were actually...I do think perhaps I was a bit premature to unclamp them after 30 - 40 minutes in a cold shed. I re-glued...clamped up tight and I've overnight. I have a feeling maybe this will help. If not, then TBIII for a try before I fall back to boring Bunnies pine. This stuff is gorgeous...thin, but really heavy and solid. I've said before, Urban Salvage is a fantastic timber yard for reclaimed stuff if you're in the Melbourne area.

  9. #8
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    Mar 2015
    Location
    melbourne
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    Default

    Well, looks like I was just being impatient. Went to check it this morning and it's all good. Perhaps I should wait more than 30 minutes when it's 6 degrees outside next time! Thanks for the advice, though...lots of good info here for future reference for sure. Always something new to learn in this hobby.

    Also, I got my wood species confused...this was actually spotted gum, not blackbutt. Blackbutt glues up really easily.

  10. #9
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    Aug 2008
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    Default

    Gotta say, 30 mins for PVA is VERY ambitious, even in summer I'd allow an hour or two.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    U usually leave everything to stay overnight once glued up... for bigger panels (table tops) i tend to plan my work in such way that glued up top remains clamped for at least couple of days...... definitely overkill but with such method i never had any glue problems...
    with waxy timber (or oily timber) I would thoroughly wipe surfaces to be glued up with acetone right before applying the glue... would leave it just enough for acetone to evaporate and then glue and clamp straight away...

    for all structural glueing i use polyurethane glue... tend to use PVA only for non structural pieces... with PVA I generally have hit and miss.. while polyurethane had never failed me....

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