Thread: Garret Wade 202 GF - too glue up table top

GLues are usually bout hoarses for courses n I'm sure you'll find that we all have our own favourate Glue that we keep using!!

............Some use a certain type or brandname of glue because they have always used the same glue since they first started woodworking and have seen no reason to change............others because they have have gone through a number of different glue types and found the one that works best for them.

.............Fact is all modern glue types will do the Job and do it well particularly with long grain to long grain glueups. Check out this article.......is a good read on all things GLue:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/useglue.html

Personally I use Garret n Wade 202 n have found it a great glue!! had no problems with it and have found it easy to clean up!!!

REgards Lou

Either Yellow Glue (PVr) or Durabond (Polyurethane) should do the job fine , probably lean towards a good PVr like Titebond 2 !

that should say PVR , not PVA as I originally wrote

Barry

Do you class glues such as Selleys Aquadhere (which is what I almost always use) and othe white PVA glues as yellow glues? I read the article that New Lou referred to and it didn't mention ordinary white PVA glues as such. I am a bit confoosed.

Samson13

Samson, the yellow glue is a stronger bond than the white. For instance, I think Triton premium (which is a yellow glue) boasts about 30% stronger than the white glues.There is a difference.

more for more info go here:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...r/1274621.html

I use Garrett Wade 202GF for just about everything, in fact I received 2 more bottles on Friday. You can get it from www.patricksandkent.com, BUT when I glued up my laminated bench top recently I used Titebond III because it boasts a 10 minute open time and, having been born with 2 left feet instead of hands, I needed all the time I could get.
It worked very well, I brushed it on and assembled 7 at a time to make 4 larger panels that I later glued together. Its other great advantage (particularly for a workbench) is that it is waterproof.
Fletty

Go ahead & use it!!

It'll be fine. I've used lots of 202GF glue over the years & haven't had a problem!

Thanks Gumby. I'm now de-foosed. It seems that with complicated and/or fiddly glue ups where a longer open time is important, white glue is the way to go unless yellow glue's higher strength is important. Is there any white glue that has an appreciably longer open time than others?

Originally Posted by Samson13

Thanks Gumby. I'm now de-foosed. It seems that with complicated and/or fiddly glue ups where a longer open time is important, white glue is the way to go unless yellow glue's higher strength is important. Is there any white glue that has an appreciably longer open time than others?

Sorry, I don't know the answer to that last question. I would suspect that nearly everybody into serious woodworking uses yellow or 202GF.

I use epoxy for most of my work, can get it with slow, normal or fast hardener.

Mick

I agree with Mick on epoxy for table tops and glued up panels. PVA glues have a tendency to creep and thus to produce an annoying rib along the glue line, especially if the glue line is thick, as when the boards are not perfectly jointed. Techniglue epoxy with a slow hardener gives you at least 30 minutes to complete the glue up. It is gap-filling, and comes as a gel which does not drip, so it is a lot less messy than many glues.

Rocker

Thanks guys for advice -and for the links which I found very useful.

I have not yet decided on finish for table (wait for further questions down the line !!) but can I assume that the above mentioned glues will allow for any normal finish assuming proper cleanup. I read something somewhere about black lines along joints which would not be too good- is this a concern ? Im using Vic Ash.

Regards

Albert
Albert

Rocker

Although Epoxy is no doubt a great option it could be argued that for these types of glueups Epoxy is overkill!..............Epoxy is probably better put to use where the specific Join is under considerable stress or when requiring to do metal/wood glueups etc etc You'll often see master woodworker David Marks using epoxy's under these circumstances.

Many of the Modern generation PVA glues do not suffer from creep and would do the Job just fine. Heres some more information on Glues:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...GlueGuide.html

Garret n Wade 202 does not suffer from creep and has got great results in past head to head tests with other glue types. If glueup time is a major issue you could use a plastic resin glue that will also give good results............At the end of the day whats probably even more important than the glue used is that you:

1. Do a dry Fit!
2. Prep you clamping strategy
3. Use marking tape to collect squeezout
4. Prep cleanup rags water toothbrush etc etc so that squeezout can be easily cleaned up!!!

You'll be amazed how preping your glueup & clamping strategy will help things run a lot smoother & lead to a cleaner glueup!!!!!

REgards Lou

Originally Posted by aabb

Thanks guys for advice -and for the links which I found very useful.

I have not yet decided on finish for table (wait for further questions down the line !!) but can I assume that the above mentioned glues will allow for any normal finish assuming proper cleanup. I read something somewhere about black lines along joints which would not be too good- is this a concern ? Im using Vic Ash.

Regards

Albert
Albert

Albert,

Dark glue lines are a problem only with resorcinol glue, which is normally used for outdoor furniture or in wet areas, since it is completely waterproof.

Rocker

Originally Posted by Rocker

Albert,

Dark glue lines are a problem only with resorcinol glue, which is normally used for outdoor furniture or in wet areas, since it is completely waterproof.

Rocker

Thanks Rocker,,,,,I better stop talking bout it and go out and glue it !

Albert