Thread: Glueing after oiling?

The idea is that if you do that, you are relying on the strength of the oil/lacquer's bond to the timber rather than the glue to the timber.

A more simple solution is to just cover the areas where you don't want the glue to spill with masking tape, or any tape for that matter. Then do your glue up and all the seepage will be sitting on the tape rather than your timber

Yes you can. Just use masking tapes to cover the joints.

Another way to minimise glue squeezeout is by applying glue in the mortise but no the tenon, or in your case apply glue to the dowel holes only. Apply just enough glue nice and even, and you should get a clean joint.

I just saw the earlier mention of paste wax. My understanding is this is just the old fashioned furniture or floor wax. That is what I use on my cast metal surfaces. It is better to get one without silicone in it or you may have problems with transfer to the wood, and subsequent finishing problems.

What about doing all the coating of the Danish Oil before cutting, then glue after cutting and apply a final coat of oil. I am thinking of doing this for mitre joints on picture frames, but a bit worried that the oil may seep into the grain fibres too much, before cutting.

If you want a really great finish, have a look at this thread

Thanks for all the info folks. In retrospect i could have used the masking tape method fairly easily but i decided to just do it the old fashioned way and apply finish after gluing. The sanding the joint areas was a pain but i managed to get most of the excess glue cleaned up relatively well. there are still some areas that were just too hard to get to but you wouldn't notice them unless your nose was pressed up against the wood.

You are right to think about finishing before assembly.

The thing you realy need to think about is keeping glue off the finished areas and finish of the ares to be glued.

And this may require you to plan ahead and consider how you construct.

the people who do this sort of thing regularly have some very clever ideas.

One thing you need to consider is which parts of the joint are actually doing the holding and require a glue bond and which parts are simply in compression or sheer and glue being no part of their function.

The sholders of a tennon for instance, realy require no glue, because they are in compression, it is the mating faces of the moretice and tennon that are doing the holding.

so finish on the faces of the morticed piece may make no difference at all...perhaps similar with your dowels.

cheers