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Thread: Gorilla wood glue
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27th May 2017, 03:25 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
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There is a lot of useful information in this thread. Thanks guys.
My impression from this conversation is that Parfix, Sika and others have longer working time than Titebond but set perfectly strong for most applications.
I've already had one laninate move and set with titebond before I had all the clamps in place.
The aeroplane glue for kitchenware sounds very interesting.
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27th May 2017, 09:54 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Just to be really clear - the "white" glues are supposedly stronger than the "yellow" glues, in USA many carpenters value shorter tack & set time of the "yellow" glues. However for practical indoor applications both are many times stronger than the surrounding timber if the joint have been made correctly.
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27th May 2017, 11:24 AM #18Senior Member
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27th May 2017, 02:10 PM #19
I've made hundreds of chairs for kids toy stores and use TB3 exclusively for those. Not a single one has ever come back. Not one single murmur, question or query - ever. Its sold me.
I also use TB2 (or 3 if the bottle is at hand) on the skirts of the tables to join pine to MDF. Perfect job. Again, the kiddies have not once levered off a 600mm leg and wrecked the skirting its attached to.
For other jobs, I use either TB1, 2 or 3 to match the timber colour.
I've tried other brands from "a hardware store", but found quite a few glueup failures. I don't have time for that crap.
The price is also meaningless. I work to produce something out the door every single day. The price of glue is a meaningless number compared to any other cost in a build/job. A 1L bottle will last a long time and a 4L bottle will go off before you are finished. If you are stressed about cost, 4L and 10L drums of Yellow glue are available from most kitchen materials supplies companies (such as Elraco: https://elraco.com.au/index.php/wood-glue-c-23_47 )
I now use the tilt Gluebots (thanks Ilya! They are excellent) - previously just soft squeezy sauce bottles from the junk shop.
With the TB's, I've found its best to keep them at a human-nice room temperature. They die in the bottle in the cold. When hot they run too fast. Canberra isa bugger for this, so they all sit on a shelf in the cool spot of the studio.
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2nd June 2017, 04:58 AM #20GOLD MEMBER
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Nothing to do with Gorrilla glue, but since we seem to have wandered onto the topic of glues in general (and great information, by the way) may I ask members' thoughts on the best glue for vacuum bagging curved laminations like this one - constructional veneers plus a burl layer. This is just a test piece which I glued using Cascamite (urea formaldehyde powder mixed with water) in the UK recently.
IMG_1437.jpg
Heading back home to Melbourne next week and Cascamite seems hard to come by. Aerolite may be the go? I've read that epoxy should be avoided when vacuum bagging because the high degree of pressure leads to high percentage glue squeeze out and consequent glue starvation. Urea formaldehyde creates a very rigid bond, which for curves is important, of course.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated!
Brian
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2nd June 2017, 08:09 AM #21
I think you've answered your own question here Brian.
You are already on the right track.
Cheers, Ian"The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"
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