Thread: Gorilla wood glue

Just to be really clear - the "white" glues are supposedly stronger than the "yellow" glues, in USA many carpenters value shorter tack & set time of the "yellow" glues. However for practical indoor applications both are many times stronger than the surrounding timber if the joint have been made correctly.

Originally Posted by DaveVman

There is a lot of useful information in this thread. Thanks guys.
My impression from this conversation is that Parfix, Sika and others have longer working time than Titebond but set perfectly strong for most applications.


Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Depends on the type, Titebond 3 has a longer working time than the Sika PVA I'd normally use.

I've made hundreds of chairs for kids toy stores and use TB3 exclusively for those. Not a single one has ever come back. Not one single murmur, question or query - ever. Its sold me.

I also use TB2 (or 3 if the bottle is at hand) on the skirts of the tables to join pine to MDF. Perfect job. Again, the kiddies have not once levered off a 600mm leg and wrecked the skirting its attached to.

For other jobs, I use either TB1, 2 or 3 to match the timber colour.

I've tried other brands from "a hardware store", but found quite a few glueup failures. I don't have time for that crap.

The price is also meaningless. I work to produce something out the door every single day. The price of glue is a meaningless number compared to any other cost in a build/job. A 1L bottle will last a long time and a 4L bottle will go off before you are finished. If you are stressed about cost, 4L and 10L drums of Yellow glue are available from most kitchen materials supplies companies (such as Elraco: https://elraco.com.au/index.php/wood-glue-c-23_47 )

I now use the tilt Gluebots (thanks Ilya! They are excellent) - previously just soft squeezy sauce bottles from the junk shop.

With the TB's, I've found its best to keep them at a human-nice room temperature. They die in the bottle in the cold. When hot they run too fast. Canberra isa bugger for this, so they all sit on a shelf in the cool spot of the studio.

Nothing to do with Gorrilla glue, but since we seem to have wandered onto the topic of glues in general (and great information, by the way) may I ask members' thoughts on the best glue for vacuum bagging curved laminations like this one - constructional veneers plus a burl layer. This is just a test piece which I glued using Cascamite (urea formaldehyde powder mixed with water) in the UK recently.

IMG_1437.jpg

Heading back home to Melbourne next week and Cascamite seems hard to come by. Aerolite may be the go? I've read that epoxy should be avoided when vacuum bagging because the high degree of pressure leads to high percentage glue squeeze out and consequent glue starvation. Urea formaldehyde creates a very rigid bond, which for curves is important, of course.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!

Brian

I think you've answered your own question here Brian.
You are already on the right track.
Cheers, Ian