Thread: wax to stop glue sticking?

Dripping?

Not quite the same situation, but I have used plain wax candles like crayons and simply "coloured in" the areas I didn't want glue (or finishes) to stick to.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Dripping?

Not quite the same situation, but I have used plain wax candles like crayons and simply "coloured in" the areas I didn't want glue (or finishes) to stick to.

Thanks Skew.

I was going to light the candle and drip it on the form so that it soaked in... can the wax be lightly sanded away from the contacting timber once it comes out of the form? seems pointless to wax up the form, only to get it onto the final face of the timber - if the finish won't stick...

As I said, I haven't used it in your situation. I think.

I often clamp waste blocks in position as "temporary formers" and wax these so they don't stick after unclamping. I can't say I've ever had any real problems with removing any wax off the finished surfaces.

But are you cold-pressing the laminates or steaming/heating them first before clamping them in the forms? I'd imagine that if you're forming heated timber then there'd probably be significant wax transfer, enough to warrant more than a "light sand" to remove.

Sorry I'm not of more help...

I have used end sealing wax . The sort we put on the end grain of fresh cut logs .
The drawback in some steam bending situations is that , yep , the wax can transfer to the piece being laminated and stuff up further gluing and finishing .
The better way might be to line the inner side of the molds with a plastic strip

If laminating cold, then rub the side of a candle over what ever you don't want getting stuck.

If steam bending, then the heat will make the wax transfer onto the laminations. In that case, I would use polyethene sheeting.

Hey guys!

Thanks heaps for your advice, i will be laminating... so no heat. Sorry i should have mentioned that.

I have been doing more research this morning, a few forums have been raving about baking paper... the type that is 'wax like' on one side... apparently it is also good to use.

Ill try both and let you know which works best )

Thanks again guys, greatly appreciated.

T

Wax will work, I find it better to cover the former with packaging tape, that is the very fine stuff used for wrapping parcels etc., that will stop your glue and laminations sticking to the former. then you don't have to worry about wax transferring or whether the wax needs replacing.

Regards

I was just about to say packing tape, too - at least thats what works for me when fibreglassing a subwoofer enclosure in a car boot!

I use Carnuba wax to stop glue from sticking to frames or cauls, works really well & is soft & easy to apply with a cloth & i have it in my cupboard. Bunnys sell is as well as many Mitre 10 & Home & hardware stores.

Any wax will do. Do you have a tub of Ubeaut wax?

I use brown shiny packaging tape. It works fine.

Rocker

Thanks guys! i gave it a go this weekend using some perafine wax?! (something along those lines) so we'll see by morning.

On the opposite end of the scales, what glue is best suitable for bent laminations? Unfortunately today i buggered $100 of nice cedar because the glue i was using dried before i could finish gluing up my lams . the glue i used was called bondcrete (recommended by a timber expert specifically for lams).

I was gluing up 9 x 2.5mm x 1.8 mtr lams, i used half a bottle (500ml), it still wasn't enough glue (no squeeze out) and it was dry by the time i got to clamping. That's what i call a mass fail

Any ideas, education and anything else going would be greatly appreciated ;-)

thanks guys!
T

T , Tell us a bit about the project that you are working on .
What is it , what is it intended for and what wood are you using .How tight is the radius , and what are the dimensions and how long are the timbers that you are bending ?

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

T , Tell us a bit about the project that you are working on .
What is it , what is it intended for and what wood are you using .How tight is the radius , and what are the dimensions and how long are the timbers that you are bending ?

Hey - sorry MJ - i should probably have started with that.

I'm trying to replicate this image (link above), but in miniature - as a baby bouncer. I'm using WR Cedar, the radius of the bend is approx 2.5 - 3 inches and the total length of the lamination's (support legs) is 1.8mtrs, i am cutting the lams to about 2.5mm and prepping the bend with a slightly steamed timber to start - clamping it till it dries, then gluing up. the width of the lams are about 50mm and hoping to get them to 45mm after cleanup.

This is the first time I've tried this, and to be honest i thought I'd get it first go... so was a little disappointed after failing today. I don't have a jointer to square up the timber, or a thicknesser or drum planer - so once i have cut all the lams, i lay them out to make a wide sheet - then give them a light hand sand to minimise the ridges caused be the band saw.

A dry run prooves to be OK (as in no gaps between lams - not perfect)... but i it just takes too long to get the glue on all 9 lams before glue up.

Thanks, hope all this makes sense. I will post some pictures of it later in the week when i get a chance to swing by the shop. the half dried lams are still clamped - going to leave them till end of week and just see what the result is...

T