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  1. #1
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    Default Aluminium Router Table

    Just recently I acquired six aluminium plates of a suitable size to make a router table. I put them up for sale in the Market Place, but one I decided to go ahead with and make up a a table.

    The plate is 975mm x 570mm x 38mm. It has a number of holes in it mainly around the periphery. Some years ago I bought an Incra aluminium plate suitable for my Triton router, but have never got around to putting it in a table.

    Aluminium Plate 001.jpg

    I prefer to post the finished product, but this one is a WIP, but I have to state in advance that there might be a few delays in progress. I guess there will be no alternative but to post warts and all.

    Incidentally I initially thought this material was stainless steel, but woke up to it being aluminium when I twigged it only weighed 56Kg instead of 165Kg!

    I don't have any specialised metal working tools so whilst I was quietly confident I would be able to work the ally, I had no previous experience in the medium.

    I marked out the area to be cut about 10mm smaller all round than the Incra insert plate. This was so I could form a rebate at a later point. I drilled pilot holes having estimated the radius at 38mm:

    Alluminium Router Table 005.jpg

    I used a drilling jig to keep the drill reasonably straight.

    I had planned to use a hole saw as the next step. I had a new 38mm saw, but it was hopeless. Clogged and just would not cut even lubricating it with kero.

    I then tried two reduced shank twist bits with the larger being 1".

    Alluminium Router Table 006.jpgAlluminium Router Table 007.jpg

    They just raced through. I then opened out the hole to 38mm using a "super drill" which is just a fly cutter style:

    Alluminium Router Table 008.jpgAlluminium Router Table 009.jpg

    As it happens, I probably could have got away with just the 1" drill but more on that later.

    Then I needed to cut between the holes with a circular saw. There was an immediate problem there as my saw just would not cut despite having a metal cutting blade. A closer inspection showed I needed a new blade. Mainly the teeth were missing, but those that were present were severely damaged. The local hardware had a suitable blade but I was not prepared to fork out $135 for it and ended up buying a Bosch blade (185mm) for about $45. It worked like a beauty and just sliced through the ally.

    Alluminium Router Table 010.jpgAlluminium Router Table 011.jpgAlluminium Router Table 012.jpgAlluminium Router table 013.jpgAlluminium Router table 014.jpg

    I cut from both sides and made up a guide for the saw as seen in the second pic. There was just a small bit remaining to cut by hand as the circular saw would not reach. I used an old Simonds metal cutting hand saw (14ppi), but equally I could have used a jigsaw.

    Alluminium Router table 016.jpgAlluminium Router table 017.jpg

    I then had to form a rebate which I did with a router bit, but this is when I discovered that I had measured the radius of the Incra plate incorrectly. It was too large. I will be able to rectify this, but not until after I get back from the Katoomba GTG, which will be at the end of November. More then.

    Regards
    Paul
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Just another quick pic or three before I head off on the first leg to Katoomba for the GTG on Sunday.

    Aluminium plate 006.jpgAluminium plate 008.jpg

    I used a rabeting bit with a selection of guide bearings gradually taking a little more off with each pass. it worked really well and no damage to the bit, which I was prepared to accept

    Aluminium plate 007.jpg

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #3
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    Paul not bad job done on the routing finish shame about the size tho. It will be one heck of a router table top thats for sure.

    Safe trip.

  5. #4
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    I have never understood why anyone would prefer MDF over aluminium for router table top. I wouls want to have it anodised though as I suspect black oxidation transfer onto the timber will become an issue.
    CHRIS

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I have never understood why anyone would prefer MDF over aluminium for router table top. I wouls want to have it anodised though as I suspect black oxidation transfer onto the timber will become an issue.
    I totally agree Chris
    But if you we're buying either piece at retail prices.
    The MDF would certainly sent you home a lot happier than the Aluminium would.

    Matt

  7. #6
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    Chris

    I had not considered the oxidation issue. At the moment the plate has what I would describe as a baked enamel finish, which I had planned on removing, but perhaps I won't do that now.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #7
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    Looks very good Paul,
    Watching.... Peter

  9. #8
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    Very impressive Paul this should prove to be a brilliant router top good luck with the rest of the job I am sure it will be a great asset in you're workshop.
    Regards Rod.
    Rod Gilbert.

  10. #9
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    I made mine from 10mm thick Ali, covered the top with bathroom laminex, it covers the unwanted holes & stops the Ali from staining the timber.
    photos are here. Challenge to Create the Ideal Router Table
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  11. #10
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    I have a Festool aluminium router table with attached sliding table. It is anodised but I still found it would mark some timbers so I made a new table from 2 x 18 mm marine ply plus a layer of mdf (can't remember the thickness) for stability (although I don't like mdf normally). I put a laminex top on it and a router lift for my Triton. Yes, I know, the Triton has a built in lift but I find the chain-drive lifter much better.

    I find this table much more useable and user-friendly than the Festool much more expensive set-up. Your al top is much thicker and larger than the Festool table so should be really stable but, like Cliff Rogers, I strongly suggest that you consider putting a laminex top on it - and if you do that you will need to allow for that when you rebate for the router plate.

  12. #11
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    Cliff

    Thank you for reminding me of your table, which I had seen before and in fact I replied to your post, but it had fallen off the fleshy tablets of my mind so your post is most opportune.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #12
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    Xanthorrhoeas

    I have in fact got a piece of Laminex that I had put to one side for the router table I was going to make before I acquired the aluminium slabs. I should be able to allow for the difference in rebate depth on the adjustable leveling screws that are part of the Incra plate. If I run out of travel I will get some longer screws. As an alternative I could pack out the rebate with Laminex to compensate.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #13
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    Sounds great Paul,

    You will end up with a very spiffy router table.

    David

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